I just purchased a 1971 O'Day. All rigging had to be taken down for transporting. Because I'm new at this, I decided to step the mast and rig the boat in my driveway before "setting out to sea" (only kidding--I plan to practice in a relatively small lake!). Anyhow, there's so much tentions on the forestay I could barely pull it with all my body weight while someone placed the pin in the shackle. I don't think the forestay should be this tight. I've sent for a tension gauge; does anyone know what kind of tention I SHOULD BE trying to achieve on the forestay? The backstay is limp and loose. I think this is too loose. Is there a tension setting I should try to set for the backstay as well?
Forestay Tension
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Cable Size and Tension
The boat is a 19' Mariner. The cable is thin, maybe 1/8"??? I'll have to measure it; I've never bought cable and need to acquaint myself with the various sizes. It's a thin, wrapped cable used on all the standing rigging. At least one turnbuckle needs to be replaced; maybe when I'm out buying the turnbuckle, the size cable will make sense. The thread size of the turnbuckle looks like 1/4"?? I'm going to work on that today.
The boat is a 19' Mariner. The cable is thin, maybe 1/8"??? I'll have to measure it; I've never bought cable and need to acquaint myself with the various sizes. It's a thin, wrapped cable used on all the standing rigging. At least one turnbuckle needs to be replaced; maybe when I'm out buying the turnbuckle, the size cable will make sense. The thread size of the turnbuckle looks like 1/4"?? I'm going to work on that today.
Thanks for response
I intended to reply to you, Mike; instead I seem to have replied to myself. I don't appear to have much to work with!!!! Can hardly wait to see the mess I get into trying to rig the mainsail and jib today! Scooter
I intended to reply to you, Mike; instead I seem to have replied to myself. I don't appear to have much to work with!!!! Can hardly wait to see the mess I get into trying to rig the mainsail and jib today! Scooter
I ALSO HAVE A MARINER (1975) AND FROM OUR EXPERIANCE THE FORE STAY WILL HAVE TO BE TIGHTEND WITH THE TURNBUCKLE AFTER YOU GET THE FORESTAY HOOKED UP. WE HAD OUR BOAT ALL RIGGED AND SAILED IT A COUPLE OF TIMES ON LAKE MICHIGAN AND NOTICED THAT THE LEE STAYS WERE GOING QQUITE SLACK WHEN UNDER SAIL. AFTER READING MANY ARTICALS I FIGURED THIS WAS NOT GOOD. SO LONG STORY SHORT THEY NEED THE BE TIGHTER THAN YOU MAY THINK. I DO NOT HAVE A TENSION GAUGE , BUT IF YOU TIGHTEN THE FORESTAY FIRST THEN THE FOUR SIDE STAYS ALTERNATING FORM SIDE TO SIDE AS TO KEEP THE MAST STREIGHT, THEN THE BACK STAY LAST. THE BACK STAY SHOULD HAVE SOME TENSION BUT MUCH LESS THAN ANYOTHER. IT WILL GET MOST OF IT'S TENSION ON DOWN WIND. HOPE THIS HELPS. I CAN SAY IT MADE A HUGE DIFFERENCE ON HOW OUR BOAT PREFORMS. GOOD LUCK AND FAIR WINDS.
Thanks! What about jib furling?
Thanks. Your reply is very helpful. One of the problems I was having is that the turnbuckle wouldn't turn on the forestay. After removing it, CLEANING it, and oiling and balancing the threads at each end, it now allows me to loosen and tighten--something I will be able to do easily, now, under sail. But you're right, you need to loosen to remove it and then tighten after it's connected. I hadn't wanted to disrupt anything from what the previous owner had done. I'm almost ready to "head out to see" at the local lake for some sailing practice. My last task was to install a jib furling. The previous owner had been raising/lowering the jib on the forestay. (This is a 1971 Mariner 2+2 19') Since the jib had a "wire lining" and a furling was among the bag of goodies, I decided to try to install the furling. I attached the furling wheel to free ring just in front (and out of the way of) the main bow chainplate (which now holds only the forestay). The sail tack and top are attached to the roller and swivel. The halyard pulls the swivel end up tight. The sail opens with the two job sheets and rolls up with the furling line. It works beautifully in my driveway! Is that all there is to it? If this works "at sea" (I use the term loosely, since I've had only three sailing lessons), the jib is old and needs to be replaced. Where can I buy a new jib for a 1971 Oday Mariner 2+2 with the cable attached to the luff ready to be attached to the furling system? I hope I've done this right. I just used common sense; but all the furling systems I've seen on the "net" have sturdy poles that the sail attaches to. This system just has a "sagging" cable, hoisted by the jib halyard. Scooter
Thanks. Your reply is very helpful. One of the problems I was having is that the turnbuckle wouldn't turn on the forestay. After removing it, CLEANING it, and oiling and balancing the threads at each end, it now allows me to loosen and tighten--something I will be able to do easily, now, under sail. But you're right, you need to loosen to remove it and then tighten after it's connected. I hadn't wanted to disrupt anything from what the previous owner had done. I'm almost ready to "head out to see" at the local lake for some sailing practice. My last task was to install a jib furling. The previous owner had been raising/lowering the jib on the forestay. (This is a 1971 Mariner 2+2 19') Since the jib had a "wire lining" and a furling was among the bag of goodies, I decided to try to install the furling. I attached the furling wheel to free ring just in front (and out of the way of) the main bow chainplate (which now holds only the forestay). The sail tack and top are attached to the roller and swivel. The halyard pulls the swivel end up tight. The sail opens with the two job sheets and rolls up with the furling line. It works beautifully in my driveway! Is that all there is to it? If this works "at sea" (I use the term loosely, since I've had only three sailing lessons), the jib is old and needs to be replaced. Where can I buy a new jib for a 1971 Oday Mariner 2+2 with the cable attached to the luff ready to be attached to the furling system? I hope I've done this right. I just used common sense; but all the furling systems I've seen on the "net" have sturdy poles that the sail attaches to. This system just has a "sagging" cable, hoisted by the jib halyard. Scooter
FURLING HEAD SAILS
FORM MY EXPERIANCE YOU HAVE IT CORRECT. I HAVE A 150 GENOA ON THE SAME TYPE OF SYSTEM. THE PREVIOUS OWNER OF OR BOAT NEVER USED THIS SAIL BECAUSE HE COULD NOT GET IT TO WORK. IT SOUNDS LIKE YOUR SYSTEM WORKS JUST LIKE OURS. YOU WILL NOTICE IN CATALOGS THAT THE FURLING UNITS THE HAVE A "POLE" ON THEM AND WORK AS THE FORESTAY ALSO. CAN ALSO BE USED TO "REEF" THE HEAD SAIL. THE TYPE OF UNIT THAT YOU AND I HAVE ARE NOT SUPOSED TO BE ABLE TO DO THAT. HOWEVER I FOUND A WAY TO GET OUR TO WORK THAT WAY ALSO. THE U SHAPED PIECE THAT THE FURLING LINE GOES THROUGHT TO THE DRUM ON OUR UNIT WOULS SPIN IF YOU TRIED TO REEF THE SAIL AND UNFRUL THE SAIL, SO I DRILLED A HOLE IN THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE BRACKET FROM WHERE THE FURLING LING GOES THROUGH AND TIDE A LINE FROM THAT TO THE HEADSTAY. NOW IT WORKS JUST LIKE ONE OF THOSE $400 UNITS. IF THIS DOES NOT MAKE SENSE I COULD SEND YOU A PICTURE THIS WEEKEND. HAVE FUN OUT THERE....
FORM MY EXPERIANCE YOU HAVE IT CORRECT. I HAVE A 150 GENOA ON THE SAME TYPE OF SYSTEM. THE PREVIOUS OWNER OF OR BOAT NEVER USED THIS SAIL BECAUSE HE COULD NOT GET IT TO WORK. IT SOUNDS LIKE YOUR SYSTEM WORKS JUST LIKE OURS. YOU WILL NOTICE IN CATALOGS THAT THE FURLING UNITS THE HAVE A "POLE" ON THEM AND WORK AS THE FORESTAY ALSO. CAN ALSO BE USED TO "REEF" THE HEAD SAIL. THE TYPE OF UNIT THAT YOU AND I HAVE ARE NOT SUPOSED TO BE ABLE TO DO THAT. HOWEVER I FOUND A WAY TO GET OUR TO WORK THAT WAY ALSO. THE U SHAPED PIECE THAT THE FURLING LINE GOES THROUGHT TO THE DRUM ON OUR UNIT WOULS SPIN IF YOU TRIED TO REEF THE SAIL AND UNFRUL THE SAIL, SO I DRILLED A HOLE IN THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE BRACKET FROM WHERE THE FURLING LING GOES THROUGH AND TIDE A LINE FROM THAT TO THE HEADSTAY. NOW IT WORKS JUST LIKE ONE OF THOSE $400 UNITS. IF THIS DOES NOT MAKE SENSE I COULD SEND YOU A PICTURE THIS WEEKEND. HAVE FUN OUT THERE....
S
Scooter
More on Jib Furling
How reassuring that we've had similar experiences. This is all new to me, so I question just about everything I do. The jib furls up so easily; I can't imagine anyone's wanting to run to the bow to hoist and drop the jib. Okay, now that the jib is hoisted with a halyard, it remains there (a very slight sag, but the jib is old). I have the halyard going through blocks and cleated just port of the cabin entrance. DON'T YOU THINK THE HALYARD SHOULD BE CLEATED TO THE BOTTOM OF THE MAST somewhere? Why keep all that stress on the blocks and cleat when you won't be lowering the jib till the end of the season anyhow. Or will I want to lower it in some kind of an emergency? I've been trying to get information on a new jib with an imbedded cable to replace this old jib. D&R sell jibs for the Mariner, but they're not responding to my question about the imbedded cable for use in the furling system. Maybe they don't know what I'm talking about. So glad that you do.
How reassuring that we've had similar experiences. This is all new to me, so I question just about everything I do. The jib furls up so easily; I can't imagine anyone's wanting to run to the bow to hoist and drop the jib. Okay, now that the jib is hoisted with a halyard, it remains there (a very slight sag, but the jib is old). I have the halyard going through blocks and cleated just port of the cabin entrance. DON'T YOU THINK THE HALYARD SHOULD BE CLEATED TO THE BOTTOM OF THE MAST somewhere? Why keep all that stress on the blocks and cleat when you won't be lowering the jib till the end of the season anyhow. Or will I want to lower it in some kind of an emergency? I've been trying to get information on a new jib with an imbedded cable to replace this old jib. D&R sell jibs for the Mariner, but they're not responding to my question about the imbedded cable for use in the furling system. Maybe they don't know what I'm talking about. So glad that you do.
S
Scooter
A picture would help
Yes, a picture would help. I'm not seeing the problem of the spinning reel that you describe. I pull on either jib sheet to bring the sail out; then pull on the furling line to reel the sail in. It rolls the jib neatly and tightly; is there a problem I'll discover when I launch on Monday? The previous owner said he didn't use the furling because it had "a poor memory." Not exactly sure what he meant except that maybe the cable gets overly twisted and you run out of line before the jib is totally furled. I haven't noticed this yet. I'm still waiting for a jib cover
Yes, a picture would help. I'm not seeing the problem of the spinning reel that you describe. I pull on either jib sheet to bring the sail out; then pull on the furling line to reel the sail in. It rolls the jib neatly and tightly; is there a problem I'll discover when I launch on Monday? The previous owner said he didn't use the furling because it had "a poor memory." Not exactly sure what he meant except that maybe the cable gets overly twisted and you run out of line before the jib is totally furled. I haven't noticed this yet. I'm still waiting for a jib cover
more on shroud tension
scooter, three quick things; be sure to tape turnbuckles after adjusting them! i sold a great 19' to a friend. this boat was PERFECT. he didn't tape the turnbuckles after trailering it. the first gail it rode out at its'moring worked the starboard stay out of the buckle and the mast came down causing much damage to the tabernackle, spreaders and other shrouds. also be carefull about making any 'tight' adjustments to shrouds when the boat is on a trailer. IS THE BOAT LEVEL? this will affect a difference in the tension aplied to opposing shrouds. lastly fiberglass hulls will warp when on trailer for a long time and will "come back to shape" when in the water. many people have adjusted stays, then launched, only to find things way out, dangerous or broken as the hull settled into shape. hope some of this helps you have fun with a great boat. bob
scooter, three quick things; be sure to tape turnbuckles after adjusting them! i sold a great 19' to a friend. this boat was PERFECT. he didn't tape the turnbuckles after trailering it. the first gail it rode out at its'moring worked the starboard stay out of the buckle and the mast came down causing much damage to the tabernackle, spreaders and other shrouds. also be carefull about making any 'tight' adjustments to shrouds when the boat is on a trailer. IS THE BOAT LEVEL? this will affect a difference in the tension aplied to opposing shrouds. lastly fiberglass hulls will warp when on trailer for a long time and will "come back to shape" when in the water. many people have adjusted stays, then launched, only to find things way out, dangerous or broken as the hull settled into shape. hope some of this helps you have fun with a great boat. bob
S
Scooter
Pre-sail check!
Thanks, Bob, for the "heads up." The tension gauge arrived--simple to use. I'll wait till I launch to get a reading, but at least now I can compare the tension on the stays and shrouds, etc. I don't know what the reading for the Mariner should be, but going by the thickness of the cable, a 25% breaking point seems to be a safe place to start. None of the standing rigging cables are that tight while the boat remains on the trailer. Had to delay my planned Monday launch. When you clean and oil those turnbuckles, they do turn easily. I had planned to do a pre-sail check each time, but taping them makes good sense. Thanks! Scooter
Thanks, Bob, for the "heads up." The tension gauge arrived--simple to use. I'll wait till I launch to get a reading, but at least now I can compare the tension on the stays and shrouds, etc. I don't know what the reading for the Mariner should be, but going by the thickness of the cable, a 25% breaking point seems to be a safe place to start. None of the standing rigging cables are that tight while the boat remains on the trailer. Had to delay my planned Monday launch. When you clean and oil those turnbuckles, they do turn easily. I had planned to do a pre-sail check each time, but taping them makes good sense. Thanks! Scooter
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