If we don't use this forum we are going to lose it {:{ I sail and race a Hunter 35. This series of boats had a fractional rig. In racing, one of the main requirements is to be able to point to the first mark. A major factor in pointing is the amount of tension in the forestay. Not enough and you have what is refered to as "headsail sag". Having spent the past 3 years with the Hunter fractional rig, not being able to point, I have come to the conclusion that I need a set of running backstays to improve control of the forestay sag. My question to this forun is ?? What are you doing to decrease forestay sag on the point with your fractional rig ?? RD
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Split Backstay Adjuster
This is one of those areas where there are several different approaches available. What I use is a split backstay adjuster, Johnson Marine, 39 series (see catalog link below). This is a cheap and "reasonably effective" solution to adjusting the forestay sag. I said reasonably effective because there is a slight problem. When you want to release the backstay tension the pincer doesn't always want to ride all the way up on it's own; it requires someone to pull laterally and outward on one or both of the backstays cables to get it to go up. The fix is easy, just put a small block on the backstay connector where the split meets. I've never done this because it's lower down on my list of things to do. If I put it off I might think of an easier way. One advantage to pincer setup is both cables of the split backstay are intact and there is basically no chance of a rigging failure. Another option is to put a block at the end of the backstay where it meets the split portion and connect it to a block and tackle setup. This would probably be preferable in your situation because it would be easier to adjust up-and-down. The swaged terminals on the split stays go through the large Johnson adjuster so there is nothing to take apart or re-swage. From the Johnson Marine link, note: "For maximum car release, use a 1.5 to 1 ratio between backstay base width and car height. Example: If a backstay is 5'-car heigth should not exceed 7 1/2' to 8' in. height off deck. Higher rations may require manual release with aid of boat hook, etc." A link to Johnson Marine is below. Their website isn't very efficient and it takes a long time for their Home Page to load so I gave a link to the backstay adjuster page.
This is one of those areas where there are several different approaches available. What I use is a split backstay adjuster, Johnson Marine, 39 series (see catalog link below). This is a cheap and "reasonably effective" solution to adjusting the forestay sag. I said reasonably effective because there is a slight problem. When you want to release the backstay tension the pincer doesn't always want to ride all the way up on it's own; it requires someone to pull laterally and outward on one or both of the backstays cables to get it to go up. The fix is easy, just put a small block on the backstay connector where the split meets. I've never done this because it's lower down on my list of things to do. If I put it off I might think of an easier way. One advantage to pincer setup is both cables of the split backstay are intact and there is basically no chance of a rigging failure. Another option is to put a block at the end of the backstay where it meets the split portion and connect it to a block and tackle setup. This would probably be preferable in your situation because it would be easier to adjust up-and-down. The swaged terminals on the split stays go through the large Johnson adjuster so there is nothing to take apart or re-swage. From the Johnson Marine link, note: "For maximum car release, use a 1.5 to 1 ratio between backstay base width and car height. Example: If a backstay is 5'-car heigth should not exceed 7 1/2' to 8' in. height off deck. Higher rations may require manual release with aid of boat hook, etc." A link to Johnson Marine is below. Their website isn't very efficient and it takes a long time for their Home Page to load so I gave a link to the backstay adjuster page.
Not necessarily.
I owned a Hunter 35.5 and raced it in the local BYC races which included Wednesday evening around the bouys and three long distance races (all day Saturday) and one overnight race. We won boat of the year for the best percentage and won a number of the races. Our Hunter had a bulb wing keel instead of the deep keel, so we couldn't point with the rest of the fleet. However, we would always make sure we kept the boat moving. Our cry was "we'll get them at the mark" and most of the time we could be there with the best of them. We beat J35 and J36s, Pearson 38, some San Juan 34's, Ericksons and some others I can't remember. We used stock sails and an old used spinnaker but we never touched the rig. Getting the sail set properly was always the main effort of the crew and they took pride it setting them quickly. We always had a person on the main, and three people on the jib. Getting a good slot is important. We also worked the halyards and the boom vang. We did have some fore stay sag but it appears that it didn't do much damage to us. Do you have a B&R rig? Backstay wouldn't do much for that rig. Anyway, hope this helps some.
I owned a Hunter 35.5 and raced it in the local BYC races which included Wednesday evening around the bouys and three long distance races (all day Saturday) and one overnight race. We won boat of the year for the best percentage and won a number of the races. Our Hunter had a bulb wing keel instead of the deep keel, so we couldn't point with the rest of the fleet. However, we would always make sure we kept the boat moving. Our cry was "we'll get them at the mark" and most of the time we could be there with the best of them. We beat J35 and J36s, Pearson 38, some San Juan 34's, Ericksons and some others I can't remember. We used stock sails and an old used spinnaker but we never touched the rig. Getting the sail set properly was always the main effort of the crew and they took pride it setting them quickly. We always had a person on the main, and three people on the jib. Getting a good slot is important. We also worked the halyards and the boom vang. We did have some fore stay sag but it appears that it didn't do much damage to us. Do you have a B&R rig? Backstay wouldn't do much for that rig. Anyway, hope this helps some.
Cunning Ham
Having went AWOL from Hunter for a While and now I am back with a 28.5. What I went AWOL for was a Tripp 26. Full blown race boat and a blast to sail. Best boat for sailing I had ever been on. But it had know cabin or not much of one. Anyways it had a backstay and Runners to control head stay sag. I would use the runner line that I had set up to a 8 to 1 system to power up the rig. When we were playing the puffs Instead of dropping the traveler in the Puff I would crank on the runner. This would harden up the headstay and the boat would jump forward. The biggest pain in the #$%# about the runners was it was another line to mess with when tacking and sometimes it was tought to tack the boat and get the tension on when it was in the lull. Plus for a 35 you will need winches and a person to man them every time you tack. I think the solution is a cunningham sewn into your head sail's. J 22 and J 24 have them I think. But it would seem like a simpler system. You could run the line aft and to a winch and use a simple 8 to 1 set up. Cliff
Having went AWOL from Hunter for a While and now I am back with a 28.5. What I went AWOL for was a Tripp 26. Full blown race boat and a blast to sail. Best boat for sailing I had ever been on. But it had know cabin or not much of one. Anyways it had a backstay and Runners to control head stay sag. I would use the runner line that I had set up to a 8 to 1 system to power up the rig. When we were playing the puffs Instead of dropping the traveler in the Puff I would crank on the runner. This would harden up the headstay and the boat would jump forward. The biggest pain in the #$%# about the runners was it was another line to mess with when tacking and sometimes it was tought to tack the boat and get the tension on when it was in the lull. Plus for a 35 you will need winches and a person to man them every time you tack. I think the solution is a cunningham sewn into your head sail's. J 22 and J 24 have them I think. But it would seem like a simpler system. You could run the line aft and to a winch and use a simple 8 to 1 set up. Cliff
Follow Up
Gentleme, Thank you for your replies. I have a much longer comment sheet in the works. Thanks again. RD
Gentleme, Thank you for your replies. I have a much longer comment sheet in the works. Thanks again. RD
All of the above will work to a degree but think
about utilizing the backstay adjuster in conjunction with jumper struts. With a frac rig as you tighten the backstay the middle of the mast bows forward. You need to keep the top part of the mast straight all the way down past the point of where the headstay fastens to the mast. The advantage is no running backstays etc. to play with every time you tack, set it and forget it. Best of luck PJ
about utilizing the backstay adjuster in conjunction with jumper struts. With a frac rig as you tighten the backstay the middle of the mast bows forward. You need to keep the top part of the mast straight all the way down past the point of where the headstay fastens to the mast. The advantage is no running backstays etc. to play with every time you tack, set it and forget it. Best of luck PJ
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