More questions for the new '90 Mac 26 I just bought. (by the way, someone told me it was a 26S, but the owner told me it was a 26D. What is the difference?) The foredeck fitting for the forestay has a loose plate on the bottom, with what looks like a rivet broken off at the front. (See photo) Is this serious? Will this weaken the connection? How do I fix it? Thanks for all your previous help!
forestay rivet?
- Thread starter jimforest
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my two cents
I just went and looked at the attachment for the backstay of my 26s. On my boat that is the only one that you can see easily, as it is located in the aft locker and there is no cabin liner. I believe these fittings for attaching shrouds and stays are called chainplates. The backstay chain plate appears to be the same as the ones for the shrouds. My backstay is bolted into the transom, and the plate that you are concerned with is riveted to the deck. I would advise you to go look at your backstay chainplate and make up your own mind, but it does not appear to me that this plate provides any support to the chainplate. I would goop it up with 3M 5200 and rivet it back in place. One possible concern is the plywood core of the deck. If moisture gets in there you can have problems with rot. I dont know enough about the deck construction to know if the plywood extends that far out on the deck, but there are plenty of people on this site who have added deck fittings and probably know the answers. About the S & D thing. The first 26 footer that Macgregor came out with was the 26D. It has a daggerboard keel. After a few years, the daggerboard was replaced with a swing keel, and this boat was called the 26S. As far asI know, there are no other differences in the two models. Both are sometimes refered to as the 26C, as in classic, to differentiate the earlier models from the later powersailers, the 26X and M. Hope this helps a little.
I just went and looked at the attachment for the backstay of my 26s. On my boat that is the only one that you can see easily, as it is located in the aft locker and there is no cabin liner. I believe these fittings for attaching shrouds and stays are called chainplates. The backstay chain plate appears to be the same as the ones for the shrouds. My backstay is bolted into the transom, and the plate that you are concerned with is riveted to the deck. I would advise you to go look at your backstay chainplate and make up your own mind, but it does not appear to me that this plate provides any support to the chainplate. I would goop it up with 3M 5200 and rivet it back in place. One possible concern is the plywood core of the deck. If moisture gets in there you can have problems with rot. I dont know enough about the deck construction to know if the plywood extends that far out on the deck, but there are plenty of people on this site who have added deck fittings and probably know the answers. About the S & D thing. The first 26 footer that Macgregor came out with was the 26D. It has a daggerboard keel. After a few years, the daggerboard was replaced with a swing keel, and this boat was called the 26S. As far asI know, there are no other differences in the two models. Both are sometimes refered to as the 26C, as in classic, to differentiate the earlier models from the later powersailers, the 26X and M. Hope this helps a little.
Fix it FAST
Jim, The S and D models have a number of differences, not just swing keel and daggerboard. The interiors are also different, probably resulting in the different needs of the keels. The D needs a place amidship through the cabin for the dagger to plunge through. This breaks up the cabin to a degree. The S needs no slot, and therefore can be a little roomier inside, although it does need a cabinet under the hull for the keel to swing into. You are talking about the rivet missing on the foredeck, ie the forestay. It looks like one pulled out. My guess is that someone used the rivet because it was easier. The original bolts were stainless steel, and had a chainplate backing under the deck. Because of the considerable strain on this fitting from mast, jibs, genoas, etc., this fitting must be very strong and secure. Rivets just don't cut it. You need to fix this the right way. If you don't, the mast could come down and hurt someone. Plus, it might cause you to spill your beer. Plus, it's hard to sail with your mast down Plus, the mast is especially hard to raise if you are underway and don't have another place to secure it. Please let us know how this worked out. Gentle, steady winds!
Jim, The S and D models have a number of differences, not just swing keel and daggerboard. The interiors are also different, probably resulting in the different needs of the keels. The D needs a place amidship through the cabin for the dagger to plunge through. This breaks up the cabin to a degree. The S needs no slot, and therefore can be a little roomier inside, although it does need a cabinet under the hull for the keel to swing into. You are talking about the rivet missing on the foredeck, ie the forestay. It looks like one pulled out. My guess is that someone used the rivet because it was easier. The original bolts were stainless steel, and had a chainplate backing under the deck. Because of the considerable strain on this fitting from mast, jibs, genoas, etc., this fitting must be very strong and secure. Rivets just don't cut it. You need to fix this the right way. If you don't, the mast could come down and hurt someone. Plus, it might cause you to spill your beer. Plus, it's hard to sail with your mast down Plus, the mast is especially hard to raise if you are underway and don't have another place to secure it. Please let us know how this worked out. Gentle, steady winds!
hidden problems?
I just rebedded my stays and shrouds last year. The (2) rivet(s) just hold the coverplate(s) down over the chainplate. The chainplate passes thru the cover and is bolted down below. My question is why has your forward chainplate slid aft enough to pop the rivets out?
I see two possible problems: your chainplate may me loose 2) water is getting down thru rivet holes and slot.
I just rebedded my stays and shrouds last year. The (2) rivet(s) just hold the coverplate(s) down over the chainplate. The chainplate passes thru the cover and is bolted down below. My question is why has your forward chainplate slid aft enough to pop the rivets out?
I see two possible problems: your chainplate may me loose 2) water is getting down thru rivet holes and slot.D Owner
I have a D model and I have cut through the liner of the forward Vee berth for modifications, which exposes the stem fitting and bow eye attach points. The stem fitting is mounted at its lower end on a single bolt, not an underdeck plate, which you can see the head of, on the starboard bow area above the waterline. Because the stem fitting can rotate around this single bolt, and because Macgregor did not perfectly align the stem fitting, the deck opening slot and the upper forestay attach point at the hounds, the forestay is going to cut aft through the deck to be in perfect alignment. It is bringing the riveted cover aft with it, and the cheap pop rivet is getting sheared off. You are in no danger of losing your rig. Chances are that the stem fitting will only move a little bit aft until aligned. You could choose to make another stem fitting cover that will cover the old pop rivet holes. You do not even need the cover except for looks, as long as the deck were sealed. I have heard of others installing a SS plate to cover the longer slot and prevent further aft deck cutting. Idasailor made one for another Mac owner.
I have a D model and I have cut through the liner of the forward Vee berth for modifications, which exposes the stem fitting and bow eye attach points. The stem fitting is mounted at its lower end on a single bolt, not an underdeck plate, which you can see the head of, on the starboard bow area above the waterline. Because the stem fitting can rotate around this single bolt, and because Macgregor did not perfectly align the stem fitting, the deck opening slot and the upper forestay attach point at the hounds, the forestay is going to cut aft through the deck to be in perfect alignment. It is bringing the riveted cover aft with it, and the cheap pop rivet is getting sheared off. You are in no danger of losing your rig. Chances are that the stem fitting will only move a little bit aft until aligned. You could choose to make another stem fitting cover that will cover the old pop rivet holes. You do not even need the cover except for looks, as long as the deck were sealed. I have heard of others installing a SS plate to cover the longer slot and prevent further aft deck cutting. Idasailor made one for another Mac owner.
Differences
Oh Yeah, If you have a daggerboard, it moves only in a vertical fashion, like a dagger plunged into the heart. The swing (S) centerboard swings parallel to the hull. The D has a completely exposed rudderhead, the S has a portion of the rudder head extending through the aft end of the boat. And finally, if you have a D model, you will be passing all other Macs when sailing to windward (I am kidding, really)
Oh Yeah, If you have a daggerboard, it moves only in a vertical fashion, like a dagger plunged into the heart. The swing (S) centerboard swings parallel to the hull. The D has a completely exposed rudderhead, the S has a portion of the rudder head extending through the aft end of the boat. And finally, if you have a D model, you will be passing all other Macs when sailing to windward (I am kidding, really)
Fixed my D this winter
I had exactly the same problem with my 1988D. I also cut through the liner of the forward berth as John did. This easily exposed where the chainplate mounts. The bolt that holds it on had loosened. It was in no danger of coming off (as I had feared), but it would no longer hold the fitting tight. It would move fore and aft about 1/8-inch or so. Once tightened it held position well, even with the forestay re-attached and tightened. However, due to the way this single bolt is setup, I would expect this might end-up slipping back a bit after it's been under load a few times, even if the bolt IS tight. If this happens, I plant to just seal it up in it's slipped position.
I had exactly the same problem with my 1988D. I also cut through the liner of the forward berth as John did. This easily exposed where the chainplate mounts. The bolt that holds it on had loosened. It was in no danger of coming off (as I had feared), but it would no longer hold the fitting tight. It would move fore and aft about 1/8-inch or so. Once tightened it held position well, even with the forestay re-attached and tightened. However, due to the way this single bolt is setup, I would expect this might end-up slipping back a bit after it's been under load a few times, even if the bolt IS tight. If this happens, I plant to just seal it up in it's slipped position.
Whoops!
You guys are right about the forestay connection. It is only the cover on Jim's boat that is loose. Rivets should work. It is the bolt underneath that is important. If it doesn't wobble or move, you are probably OK.
You guys are right about the forestay connection. It is only the cover on Jim's boat that is loose. Rivets should work. It is the bolt underneath that is important. If it doesn't wobble or move, you are probably OK.
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