forestay length - S2 8.5/8.6

[Bron]

In replacing the roller furling on a S2 8.5 (and possibly the forestay), I need to know the length of the forestay from mast head to stemhead on deck. If anyone has that information or can easily measure it, I would appreciate the help.

Measurement is typically taken from center of pin to center of pin.

Also, does anyone have a turnbuckle as part of the forestay configuration? I don't, so only tension adjustment on the forestay is via the backstay?

Thanks,

Bron Taoras
S2 8.5 # 088
Rocky River, OH

 

[BobM]

Best way

The best way to do this is to order it long, have the top fitting swaged on and cut the bottom one and install a mechanical fitting, such as a Sta-lok or Norseman. I wouldn't use someones measurements or the factory ones for anything but an estimate of a rough cut because you don't know what the tolerances were when they were first made or how someone else's boats rigging is tuned.

I replaced my backstay last year in that manner. We ran a halyard aft (relatively new halyard) to serve as temporary back stays while one of the three of us went up, dropped the forestay and attached the new stay. We did it on the water on a calm day. Alternately, drop your mast and do all the rigging at once. The second person winched and the third tailed. The guy in the bosun's chair had to help out a bit with climbing. Next time I will build an ascender or just buy the ATN top climber (or borrow one) to make life easier.

 

[BobM]

Are you sure you don't have a turnbuckle? Mine is under my drum. You should have one and they are part of most units. If you are planning DIY I have been intrigued by the Alado unit. It is inexpensive, like CDI, but the foils are formed of interlocking pieces slid up from the base. Great video on youtube. I had a CDI, but to be frank I must be the only guy that didn't really care for it / or perhaps I just had my rigging mis-adjusted (first boat). Anyhow, the flexible foil let the luff of the jib wiggle in the wind making an annoying squeaking sound that I'd rather avoid. Perhaps I didn't have enough tension, but just my experience.

 

[Bron]

Bob, Thanks for the prompt response. Good advice. A rigging shop also suggested the norseman/sta-lok at one end so the stay can be custom fitted.

I'm positive there is no turnbuckle. The mast is on the gound now and the forestay is disconnected. I'm removing the old drum - no turnbuckle - just some tang plates that raise the drum up off the deck. I might add a turnbuckle to a new forestay.

Thanks again.

Bron

 

[BobM]

Do yourself a favor. Replace everything while the mast is down. Even professional riggers will use a mechanical fitting at the base and a swage up top. The reasoning is that the swaged fitting is cheaper and not prone to failure at the top of the mast, where the opening is facing downward. At the base the mechanical fitting is less likely to fail than a swage, but is more expensive. However, the mechanical fitting is also reusable, barring the central cone, so long term (VERY long term) it evens out a bit.

Here are the instructions I followed. Note that the key is to make a rough cut and then use some sort of guide to make your final cut. This worked well for me.

http://sailmahalo.com/picture_collections/InstallingStaloks/

 

[Bron]

Do yourself a favor. Replace everything while the mast is down. Even professional riggers will use a mechanical fitting at the base and a swage up top. The reasoning is that the swaged fitting is cheaper and not prone to failure at the top of the mast, where the opening is facing downward. At the base the mechanical fitting is less likely to fail than a swage, but is more expensive. However, the mechanical fitting is also reusable, barring the central cone, so long term (VERY long term) it evens out a bit.

Here are the instructions I followed. Note that the key is to make a rough cut and then use some sort of guide to make your final cut. This worked well for me.

http://sailmahalo.com/picture_collections/InstallingStaloks/

Thanks Bob. Yes, I'm replacing the entire forestay. Waiting for parts. Norseman top and bottom. Mahalo instructions are quite good. Instead of a hack saw, I use a dremel with an arasive blade. I might break a few blades (they are fagile), but it makes a nice, smooth cut. A rotozip would do the same, but has a larger blade and harder to control. The dremel is easily handled by a 400 watt power inverter, the cigarette lighter plug type.

 

[BobM]

I meant all your standing rigging since you have the mast down.

 

[Bron]

I meant all your standing rigging since you have the mast down.

It's not in the budget for this year. (That's about a $1,500 project, parts alone.) Examination of wire and swages show no broken strands and no cracks or other evidence of failure. I'm on Lake Erie, so salt water/corrosion is not an issue.
Unplanned furler replacement is it in major improvments this year.
Bron

 

[BobM]

salt water/corrosion is not an issue.

Bron

Lucky you! what furler did you buy?

 

[Bron]

Lucky you! what furler did you buy?

I got a Hood. Bought it direct from Hood/pompanette who gave an additional discount for replacing a Hood.

Forestay length was built to the book spec of 37' 7 3/4". Norseman eye fitting top and bottom. Fairly straighforward DIY. No major glitches.

Hope all have a good sailing summer.

BRon

 

[BobM]

I am glad it went well. Did you take the mast down to do it?

 

[Bron]

I am glad it went well. Did you take the mast down to do it?

The mast was down for the winter. Working at grade is much easier. Given a choice, I wouldn't even consider doing it with the mast up.

Bron