Hey all, Last week I started the thread that I have linked below. Thank all of you again for your input. After making all of my preparations for completing the work I had another conversation with the mechanic. He assured me he would get the work done. He is working on the boat today. He has succeeded in getting the new cutless bearing cocked in the strut and deformed. He wanted to pull the strut off of the boat and bring it somewhere to have the bearing pressed into it. When asked his proceedure for the installation of the new bearing he replied, "I use a soft hammer and just bang them in". I've never done this before but even I know that it would be almost impossible to do it in this without kinking it in the strut. I just told him not to remove the strut and to cut the kinked cutless out. A couple of questions: My plan was to use a threaded rod, a stack of fender washers on each side and two bolts to pull the bearing it. Has anyone had issues or surprises that I should know about? I will have the bearing on ice for a couple of hours prior. Should I heat up the strut as well? The mechanic has used up the better part of 4hrs installing, deforming and removing the bearing. The part that was ruined was $35 and the replacement with overnight shipping will be $75. Should he be responsible or I? "If you want something done right do it yourself" Any help would be great. Thank you, Tim
Follow up on cutless work......
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Cutless
the mechanic needs to be replaced! He should pay for a replacement part. Your approach is a better one. But, there are tools out there that do the job. I don't know what they are called however. This link may help and I've seen this used. http://www.strutpro.com/ Before putting the new cutless in, put it in ice for a while. It should slip partially in. Good luck.
the mechanic needs to be replaced! He should pay for a replacement part. Your approach is a better one. But, there are tools out there that do the job. I don't know what they are called however. This link may help and I've seen this used. http://www.strutpro.com/ Before putting the new cutless in, put it in ice for a while. It should slip partially in. Good luck.
Your mechanic is a CHARLiTAN ....
Hes not a mechanic, he's a butcher. Plain bearings such has cutless bearings are PRESSED (as in using a PRESS) in. Anyone who uses a hammer to affect an 'intereference fit' .... absolutely HAS NO IDEA of what he is doing and just proved that fact by using a hammer and breaking the bearing. Find another mechanic or do it yourself. If you simultaneously heat the strut (the circumference/diameter of the bore will become larger) while putting the bearing in *ice water* (not dry ice or it will shatter) to make the OD of the bearing smaller .... then 'press' the bearing home as fast as you can. The press can be simply 'threaded drill rod' or a looooong bolt, nuts and large fender washers. What you just got was 'typical boat yard service'. ALWAYS better to do it yourself.
Hes not a mechanic, he's a butcher. Plain bearings such has cutless bearings are PRESSED (as in using a PRESS) in. Anyone who uses a hammer to affect an 'intereference fit' .... absolutely HAS NO IDEA of what he is doing and just proved that fact by using a hammer and breaking the bearing. Find another mechanic or do it yourself. If you simultaneously heat the strut (the circumference/diameter of the bore will become larger) while putting the bearing in *ice water* (not dry ice or it will shatter) to make the OD of the bearing smaller .... then 'press' the bearing home as fast as you can. The press can be simply 'threaded drill rod' or a looooong bolt, nuts and large fender washers. What you just got was 'typical boat yard service'. ALWAYS better to do it yourself.
Threaded rod
3/4" Threaded rod = $6.00 6 Fender washers (3 per side to avoid cupping)= $1.25 4 3/4" Bolts (2 extras) = $2.00 I figure that the above, assembled, should make a fine press. I will ice the bearing and heat the strut and I will report back. This is really turning into a nightmare. This guy has already been paid by my insurance company. I asked them to send the check to me and they mailed it directly to him. I think I'm in for a fight when this is all said and done. Are there any arguments out there that I should pay him for his time? Does anyone else feel that he should be responsible for the cost of the replacement part and shipping? Wish me luck and thanks again in advance for any input. Tim
3/4" Threaded rod = $6.00 6 Fender washers (3 per side to avoid cupping)= $1.25 4 3/4" Bolts (2 extras) = $2.00 I figure that the above, assembled, should make a fine press. I will ice the bearing and heat the strut and I will report back. This is really turning into a nightmare. This guy has already been paid by my insurance company. I asked them to send the check to me and they mailed it directly to him. I think I'm in for a fight when this is all said and done. Are there any arguments out there that I should pay him for his time? Does anyone else feel that he should be responsible for the cost of the replacement part and shipping? Wish me luck and thanks again in advance for any input. Tim
Replacement Tool
Tim ... I agree he is a butcher ..do not let him work on it any more ....I have drawings for a tool that is easy to make to take out the bearing and replace it also .... did the whole job of extracting and replacing in less than 2 hours with no pounding .... email me if you want me to send you the picture of the tool.... it has been in the archives Hunter 33--79-83 and also under Cutlass Bearing ......... dcuthbert@comcast.net
Tim ... I agree he is a butcher ..do not let him work on it any more ....I have drawings for a tool that is easy to make to take out the bearing and replace it also .... did the whole job of extracting and replacing in less than 2 hours with no pounding .... email me if you want me to send you the picture of the tool.... it has been in the archives Hunter 33--79-83 and also under Cutlass Bearing ......... dcuthbert@comcast.net
I replaced
my bearing last year. I made a press, however it was not getting the old bearing out. I ended up cutting it out using a metal saw....very slow process, however no stress on the strut. I put the new bearing on ice ovenight, heated the strut with a heat gun, used a little antiseize and she slipped right in....had to use the press for the last 1/2 inch or so. I saw a guy replace his this year using a torch on the strut.....I though this was not smart as the strut is attached to the hull and I do not want to mess with the attachment.... The guy doing work for you is a hack! Do it yourself, take your time, ask a million questions and you will be fine for this project Good Luck! Greg
my bearing last year. I made a press, however it was not getting the old bearing out. I ended up cutting it out using a metal saw....very slow process, however no stress on the strut. I put the new bearing on ice ovenight, heated the strut with a heat gun, used a little antiseize and she slipped right in....had to use the press for the last 1/2 inch or so. I saw a guy replace his this year using a torch on the strut.....I though this was not smart as the strut is attached to the hull and I do not want to mess with the attachment.... The guy doing work for you is a hack! Do it yourself, take your time, ask a million questions and you will be fine for this project Good Luck! Greg
Hi Dick...
....I think that I've seen the tool that you made. Very nice. 10 yrs from now when I need to replace this bearing again I will use it for sure. The old bearing is out so I won't need it this time. I've made a press out of threaded rod, fender washers and bolts that when tightened will pull the bearing in straight. So what do you think? Should the mechanic pay for the part? Should I have to pay him for his time? Thanks, Tim
....I think that I've seen the tool that you made. Very nice. 10 yrs from now when I need to replace this bearing again I will use it for sure. The old bearing is out so I won't need it this time. I've made a press out of threaded rod, fender washers and bolts that when tightened will pull the bearing in straight. So what do you think? Should the mechanic pay for the part? Should I have to pay him for his time? Thanks, Tim
The allthread and washers work well
Most prop shafts are 1" or 1 1/4" if you can, find or make a hollow sleeve of the same diameter and cut it about .020" shorter than the bearing and use it to keep everything centered and aligned as you pull it in. I have used this method before with good results and I never had to heat or cool anything. Another tip is to get a wheel cylinder hone and run it thru the strut to clean it up. Bevel the ends of the strut 45 degrees to remove any burrs and help the lubricant stay on the outside of the bearing. Use a lubricant such as anti sieze or cutting oil on the outside of the bearing. This setup also works for removing the old bearing. You just need the right sized spacers and an outer sleeve that is bigger than the OD of the cutlass bearing.
Most prop shafts are 1" or 1 1/4" if you can, find or make a hollow sleeve of the same diameter and cut it about .020" shorter than the bearing and use it to keep everything centered and aligned as you pull it in. I have used this method before with good results and I never had to heat or cool anything. Another tip is to get a wheel cylinder hone and run it thru the strut to clean it up. Bevel the ends of the strut 45 degrees to remove any burrs and help the lubricant stay on the outside of the bearing. Use a lubricant such as anti sieze or cutting oil on the outside of the bearing. This setup also works for removing the old bearing. You just need the right sized spacers and an outer sleeve that is bigger than the OD of the cutlass bearing.
Thanks everyone....
iced the bearing, heated the strut and used the all thread rod and washers and the bearing went right in. No problems, a very simple proceedure. Tim
iced the bearing, heated the strut and used the all thread rod and washers and the bearing went right in. No problems, a very simple proceedure. Tim
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