I'm a bit uncertain on how to foam the 170's mast to prevent turtling. I've assumed that the technique was to drill a hole 12" or so from the top and inject insulating foam from an aerosol can. I thought I read something like this six months or so ago. But I can't find that post.In searching, I got Glenn Basore's PDF "170 Mast Foaming Test Results". It's very helpful on capsizing practice, righting it with a friend standing in overturned hull so someone's aboard, and the challenges of getting in from the drink. The foaming technique Glenn described briefly seems to be stuffing 6’ tubes of 2” pipe insulating material. Does anyone have a comment on either approach?Concerning the tube approach:Are the tricks to get the tubes up the mast? Are three or so needed to get floation high enough in the mast?Putting on in the boom is also mentioned. Are there any special techniques needed for this?I just got my new 170. Based on the manufacturer’s serial number, HUN17321I506, and a post on how to decode it, that would seem to mean my hull is number 17,321; made in September 05 and is the 2006 model year. Does this seem correct?We’ve had only one sail so far and enjoyed it a lot. We sail in a nearby man-made Lake Jordan in central North Carolina. We had a Precision 15 and one thing that drove the change was the difficulty getting back into the boat after righting it. As a 60-something with diminished upper body strength, it was tough. So the Hunter’s transom-less design was alluring. Also, once I had a sail with the dealer, it was clear that the jib area and the overall design made it a much better sailing craft. Best wishes,