foaming test

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R

Rick S.

This week I experimented to determine how well one-part polyurethane foam flows and expands to fill a mast tube. I used an 8-foot length of common 2-inch PVC pipe with roughly the same inside diameter of a 170 mast, and a 16-oz. can of "Great Stuff Insulating Foam Sealant - Gaps & Cracks" from a local home supply store. With the pipe propped up at 45 degrees, and both ends of the pipe open, I inserted the straw nozzle into the upper end as far as it would go (6 inches). Over the next minute or so, I squirted as much foam into the pipe as I could. When the foam started to expand back out of the top end, I paused until it settled, then squirted more foam. I injected about three-fourths of the can before the pipe wouldn't accept any more. I then capped the upper end of the pipe with a tight-fitting PVC cap (to simulate a mast cap) and pinned it in place with nail inserted through pre-drilled holes. The air temp was 75 degrees F., RH at 48 percent, and I did not rotate or shake the pipe during or after injecting the foam. 24 hours later, I cut the pipe into 3-inch long sections, beginning at the capped end. Below is a photo of the results. From L-R, bottom row are sections at 3,6,9,12,15 and 18 inches. Top row L-R are sections at 21,24,27,30 and 33 inches. The only place I found fully-expanded, hardened foam, was a plug less than 3 inches long, at the farthest limit of the foam's travel -- less than 34 inches from the top. The remaining sections were largely hollow and coated with still-viscous, sticky, unexpanded goop. Once the pipe was cut up and the individual sections were exposed to air, the remaining foam expanded and hardened in about an hour. Before I began, I had expected to find mostly hardened foam with occasional pockets of unexpanded goop. But when I started cutting, I was surprised that most of the pipe remained hollow, as most of the goop remained unexpanded and unhardened. (And I'm still trying to remove a hardened mix of PVC chips and adhesive from the blade and guard of my Skil saw!) Based on the above, I would be reluctant to shoot more than a small amount of this foam into my mast or boom -- just enough to form a plug not much longer than it is wide. Earlier this summer, I shot enough into my mast to form about a 12-inch plug and now I wonder if even that hardened all the way through. The manufacturer of "Great Stuff" makes another variety of this foam, designed for big gaps, and that might work better inside a mast, but it is unavailable where I live. Also, there might be a better way to inject the foam, possibly by extending the straw with clear plastic tubing, but I'm still cleaning up from this mess, so I'll leave that experiment to someone else. I welcome anyone else's perspective on this. Happy sailing.
 
May 22, 2004
55
Hunter 170 Brewerton
Test Method

Rick, Interesting! Somewhere in all these foaming posts I read one posters suggestion that foaming should be considered only as a way to prevent water entry into the masthead and boom. Your test reinforces this suggestion. I wonder how bouyant a plugged with foam mast is vs a manufactured mast float. Someday I'll foam plug mine and test. Doubt it this year as having too much fun painting the house... While not for everyone, I'm happy with my Baby Bob. Displaces 32 lbs of water and masthead doesn't touch surface. Even holding the attached float under for a while results in float/masthead's fast and immediate return to the surface. Still something of a novice here. High level of confidence in an anti-turtle device req'd! It's a sure thing. FYI Wind-X fans. Big, but see the 'Hobie Bob'. Joe
 
Jun 7, 2004
944
Birch Bay Washington
Urethane foam is tough

The best product would be one of the two part systems that require some mechanical mixing and pouring. They come in a range of densities. They are messy and very hard to clean up. The cans of sealant are really for sealing buildings and have a higher density. They are not good for bouyancy. If you had turned the tubes in your test, it would have done better for your purpose. In my experience none of the polyurethane foams are good under water. Just look at my rudder. They tend to absorb water unless very carefully manufactured. They make great sealant though and a better adhesive as you have discovered. If you do use the two part mix, do not do too much at a time. It needs room to expand or else it becomes dense from its own weight. Mixing ratio is very critical. Temperature is critical, too. Warm is generally better. If I wanted flotation, I would use polystyrene plugs and hold them in place with urethane from a can like you used. Styrofoam will not absorb water like the urethane will.
 
B

Brian

Foaming the mast

Great idea Rick with interesting results. I think the expanding foam should only be used to plub the end of the mast head. I used very little foam. Do not try to fill the mast with it. I filled the mast with foam tubes used to insulate hot water pipes. They slide easily into the mast. Then use the expanding foam to plug the mast head, silicone any rivet holes thus preventing water from entering the mast. We tested this method by capsizing the boat over a dozen times. We stood on the mast head in an attemp to fill the mast with water and get it to sink. It never did. We left the boat capsized in the water for about 10 minutes. Still wouldn't sink. When we righted the boat, no water came out of the mast. So we feel pretty confident that done right, this method works. Brian
 
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