Foam Filler That Wet Epoxy Won't Disolve?

[Gunni]

Heritage, that is a good plan because you will want easy access for regular removal to refinish the rails. Use bedding compound on the rail foot, and back each inside nut with a stout fender washer. If those inserts are not SS 316 use anti-seize on the threads.

 

[heritage]

Thanks Gunni. The inserts are brass so I will use an anti-seize. The ss insert is priced at about $1.65 and the brass less than $.40 in the 1/4" internal thread size.

 

[Brian S]

Thanks Gunni. The inserts are brass so I will use an anti-seize. The ss insert is priced at about $1.65 and the brass less than $.40 in the 1/4" internal thread size.

I wouldn't use brass for anything that could see salt water. Bronze, I'm all in, but most brass corrodes way too easily with salt water. Brass is mostly copper and zinc, and the zinc corrodes preferentially in salt water (sacrificial zinc anodes, anyone?) leaving behind spongy copper. Apparently there are alloys of brass that are less susceptible to corrosion. In any case, silicon bronze is very resistant, as well as 316 stainless. Opting to bolt handrails is preferred to screwing, but lowering cost with fasteners seems like false economy to me. I mean, the thing with handrails is you may someday find yourself hanging full body weight on them, so...

 

[heritage]

I agree with what you say about using brass in salt water. I'll check for any corrosion when removing and repainting. My thinking is that the inserts are encased in teak and located above where water could enter. I plan on using Mainsails butyl rubber under the base of the hand rails.