Flying the chute on the Yam 25

[alturaam]

Hi all,

I had an exchange some time ago with Syntonos on flying the chute on the Yam 25. I have done it solo now in very light winds using a tiller tamer, launch, 3 gybes, douse. This was my symmetrical kite. Don't have a cruising/assym chute yet. My questions are:

1) When flying the symmetrical, where do you all run the sheet and guy through? I had used the two fixed "wheels" or blocks on port and starboard forward of the jib winches and used the cabin top winches if needed. I'm wondering if any of you chute flyers ran the sheet and guy towards the back of the cockpit and used snatchblocks.

2) If any of you used snatchblocks towards the rear of the boat, where did you attach them? The toe rails? The stanchions?

3) For a cruising chute, where did you run the sheet and guy? Would it be the same for a symmetrical chute?

Thanks,
Adrian
Adventure Time

 

[Syntonos]

Y25 spinn rigging

Hey alturram,
Been busy running in circles. Sounds like your progressing very calculated in your chute work.... smart. Your working at a disadvantage if you don't have the "optional" spinnaker winches mounted out board aft near the traveler. There should be flat pads where they would mount. You should be using snatch blocks attached to the toe rail. Location is dependent on your sail shape, that's why all the holes in the toe rail.....infinite adjustment !
HOT TIP: Snatch blocks are ridiculously expensive. You can use blocks with a swiveling snap shackles at a fraction of the cost on a boat our size, they work fine. You may want to go a size up from the sheet your running to ensure they run free.

Sheet routing is same for asymmetrical or symmetrical. Symmetrical rigging difference is the spin pole rigging ,topping lift and downhaul.

P.S. Finally got around to replacing my old boom. It doesn't whistle like a flute like the old one that was full of 37yrs of old mount holes!

Cheers

 

[alturaam]

Re: Y25 spinn rigging

Thanks very much Syntonos!. No, I don't have outboard winches near the traveler. Was that ever a stock feature on any of the Yam 25s? Anyway I will locate the "flat" area and see if mounting winches for spin work is something I can attempt. I know you also use a Selden furler. Did you have the model number for that? I am going to get a quote from a local rigging outfit.
I also have the Ronstan 1387 jam cleat that we discussed a while back, which I will mount forward of the port cabin top winch to keep my jib luff from slipping/sagging.
I did the spin work using a Cansail tiller lock. The kite was packed in a bag mounted on the bow for the launch. I doused it in to the companion way. Not that big a deal, but I chose a really limp day to do it inside the Magothy (near Annapolis).
That old boom looks like Swiss cheese. Curiously it has an elliptical cross section. Mine is rectangular.

 

[Syntonos]

Y25 headsail furler

My furler is a Furlex 100s dual foil. Its probably vintage 2000 when the boat was completely re- rigged. Mounting winches is simple through bolting. The trick is finding something of reasonable cost.

Happy Sailing

 

[alturaam]

Thanks for the spec on the furler, Syntonos. I will look that up. BTW, I realized that I use the winches on the flat area of the cockpit to trim my jib as opposed to the pair nearer the cabin top on either side. When solo, I cross sheet using the "wheel" blocks and run the jib sheets to either of the winches near the traveler. Not sure other Yam 25 sailors do that. I looked at my manual and it appears those are the winches that should be used for the spin, assuming of course, that you have blacks in the rear attached to the toe rails or some place similar. Given all of that , I don't think there is any need to mount more winches.

 

[Syntonos]

Y25 sheet routing

That explain a few things... Here is how I do it.

JIB SHEETS: Back through adjustable track standing blocks to cheek blocks then forward to winches on dog house. Around winches the down to large jam cleats on dog house. I toss all tails down the companion way to keep cockpit clear. If your using the jam cleats to tie off the halyards that's leading you astray.
You have to have faith in your Jam cleats. Make sure they are in good shape, they are relatively cheap to replace. By tossing your halyards down the companionway the halyard tail weight draws them into the jam cleats. I have never had one come un-cleated under load. It seems unorthodox on a boat our size - but it works well. Just another quirk of the Y25, kinda like the engine under the forward berth.
I too cross sheet frequently, through the cheek block, across cockpit to windward winch on dog house. My helm position is forward in the cockpit sitting out on the deck sitting against lifeline. I use tiller extensions to get me to the jib sheet winches when single handing.

SPINNAKER SHEETS: Aft to snatch blocks attached to toe rails then forward and inboard to deck winch.

P.S. revisit the pics I posted regarding mast raising/depth meters " knowing where your bottom is" It shows how I run my halyards etc. down companion way. Winch and cleat are not being used because I am cross sheeting Jib ( in foreground).

 

[alturaam]

Ok, Syntonos. I'm clearer on the jib sheet rigging now. I am guilty of using the large cleats on the doghouse to secure both the main and jib halyards, then throwing them down the companionway. I will go out solo to Rock Hall tomorrow and try that. I ordered a Ronstan 1387 ?locking cleat and I will eventually mount this forward of the winch next to the halyards. You had talked about this a while back.

I removed a fitting on my forestay effectively shortening it. I am hoping this aids the chronic weatherhelm. Also tried to a manual start of the diesel, 2-3x. Couldn't get it to go.

 

[Syntonos]

YSM8 diesel hand cranking on Y25

If your diesel is starting easily with the electric starter is should start with the hand crank. Make sure you engage the compression release. it is a little lever located near the valve cover. This allows you to get the engine spinning at a good rpm on the flywheel weight alone without fighting engine compression.
Once your up to speed dis-engage the compression release, your engine should start. The hand crank is a nice option.... being independent of electricity is a good thing!

Regarding Jib Sheeting I rigged my boat the same way on my first sail, till I was set straight. You'll see the advantages immediately and never look back!

Happy sailing
Always a pleasure trading tales

 

[alturaam]

Re: YSM8 diesel hand cranking on Y25

I located what I thought was the decompression lever and cranked with it in both positions. There was no resistance to the cranking motion which I thought was odd. Anyway I will attempt to do that again.

Jibsheet rigging: I made and attempt to go to Rock Hall from the Magothy River on Sunday but was simply unable to fill my sails even with my 30+ year old Shimizu Sails 150. However, I rigged the jibsheets using the winches on the doghouse. It appears that there is better purchase with that set up as opposed to using the winches near the traveler.

 

[Syntonos]

CRANKS...... Diesel and Sail

The compression release is just that. It releases the compression of the engine by holding open your exhaust valve allowing you to overcome the resistance created by the high diesel compression. With the engine spinning by cranking, release the lever. With the lever disengaged the valves close normally creating the compression that ignites your fuel i.e. starting your engine.

You'll get use to the new sheeting arrangement quickly. Your crew can trim from the companion way and everything will get easier, keeping you forward in the cockpit. You gotta have a tiller extension.

 

[alturaam]

Most of the time I'm singlehanded, and I always sat behind the traveler, so the new jibsheet arrangement changes things.

Decompression lever-there was no noticeable change in crank resistance either way. It seemed like there was no resistance at all. I must have the wrong lever. I will re-look the Yanmar manual for my for the right lever.

 

[Syntonos]

Moving Forward

If you've been behind the traveler then moving forward will make it a completely different boat. I have friends that like the security back there, they are of smaller stature than myself. I find it to confining. I'm an old dingy sailor and am more comfortable on the rail than on the seats.
When using the tiller extension when tacking you'll need to pass it behind the mainsheet obviously. I just set the extension on the stanchion rail side I'm tacking to, switch sides in front of the main sheet and pick up the tiller on the other side. Its a similar technic as on small catamaran.

You may have low compression or a sticky decompression mechanism. If its still running for you, great , go with it. Anyone out there with experiences with Yanmar YSM8/12 feel free to step in.

If your still learning it's a good sign your not dead yet!

Have fun
Syntonos

 

[furdui]

Most of the time I'm singlehanded, and I always sat behind the traveler, so the new jibsheet arrangement changes things.

Decompression lever-there was no noticeable change in crank resistance either way. It seemed like there was no resistance at all. I must have the wrong lever. I will re-look the Yanmar manual for my for the right lever.

Hi,my Yanmar is YA8(i'm told it is similar with YSM8,built for japanese internal market).
If it does not start because i'm not turning it fast enough,the moment I release the compression lever,it stops,like hitting a solid wall,hence the compression is still very good.When I manage to go over first compression,it starts straightaway.

For who is curious,attached are picks of starting shaft assy,I dismantled to clean the sprocket of hardened oil(it needs oiling regularly).To pull out this shaft undo three bolts which hold the flange.