Just bought 1995 23.5. Have always used hank on sails. Have furling jib on hunter,any ideas on flying drifter,can remove hanks (5) use jib halyard ,what about attaching clew,any advice ?
Flying a drifter
- Thread starter DJN51
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DJN51,
If by drifter you mean an Asymmetrical or Cruising spinnaker, then I can help.
The H260 has a place for a spinnaker halyard above and outside the furling jib. The asymmetrical spinnaker I picked up for this boat has a full luff with no hanks. If you have a couple on the head, you should be OK ignoring them. If they run all the way down, then you might adversely affect the shape if you eliminate them all.
On the loose luff type, the tack should be attached to a line that runs through a tack block that allows you to adjust the height of the tack above the bow.
Here is a good reference link http://www.fxsails.com/spinnarticle2.php
To clear the running lights I added a small 1' extension on my pulpit for this block. I then run this line back to the cockpit along side the jib furling line. (New fairleads and cleat added)
The sheet attached to the clew ring runs outboard of everything to a swivel fairlead just forward of the stern cleat. I tie the sheet off on the leeward stern cleat.
If by drifter you mean an Asymmetrical or Cruising spinnaker, then I can help.
The H260 has a place for a spinnaker halyard above and outside the furling jib. The asymmetrical spinnaker I picked up for this boat has a full luff with no hanks. If you have a couple on the head, you should be OK ignoring them. If they run all the way down, then you might adversely affect the shape if you eliminate them all.
On the loose luff type, the tack should be attached to a line that runs through a tack block that allows you to adjust the height of the tack above the bow.
Here is a good reference link http://www.fxsails.com/spinnarticle2.php
To clear the running lights I added a small 1' extension on my pulpit for this block. I then run this line back to the cockpit along side the jib furling line. (New fairleads and cleat added)
The sheet attached to the clew ring runs outboard of everything to a swivel fairlead just forward of the stern cleat. I tie the sheet off on the leeward stern cleat.
Here's a photo of my bow hardware:
Both the spinnaker halyard and the tack line have pelican hooks. I hook them together when the spinnaker is not in use.
I get good clearance from the jib because of the added extension.
Both the spinnaker halyard and the tack line have pelican hooks. I hook them together when the spinnaker is not in use.
I get good clearance from the jib because of the added extension.
Clark,
The take-apart stanchion slides screw down very tight, so it takes considerable force to cause movement.
I usually fly the tack about 3 feet off the tack block. That has a secondary effect of acting as a shock absorber, keeping the forces down.
On occasion the assembly has been shifted a couple of inches to leeward. I just thump it back into center alignment when I'm in the slip. I suppose I could rough up the surface of the stanchion with a file or pin the slides in place, but it doesn't move often enough for me to be concerned.
The take-apart stanchion slides screw down very tight, so it takes considerable force to cause movement.
I usually fly the tack about 3 feet off the tack block. That has a secondary effect of acting as a shock absorber, keeping the forces down.
On occasion the assembly has been shifted a couple of inches to leeward. I just thump it back into center alignment when I'm in the slip. I suppose I could rough up the surface of the stanchion with a file or pin the slides in place, but it doesn't move often enough for me to be concerned.
Dave T,
I ordered the stanchion parts from http://www.bosunsupplies.com/ My order included two 1' sections of pipe. They contacted me very quickly to verify I wanted 2 pipe sections 1 foot long, not 1 pipe 2 foot long. This meant that I did no cutting and just had to assembly all the parts.
The blocks, hooks, and fairleads I got from my normal marine supplier.
I've considered writing a Modification Article with additional photos and a parts list. Just haven't gotten around to it yet.
I ordered the stanchion parts from http://www.bosunsupplies.com/ My order included two 1' sections of pipe. They contacted me very quickly to verify I wanted 2 pipe sections 1 foot long, not 1 pipe 2 foot long. This meant that I did no cutting and just had to assembly all the parts.
The blocks, hooks, and fairleads I got from my normal marine supplier.
I've considered writing a Modification Article with additional photos and a parts list. Just haven't gotten around to it yet.
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