Flushing the water tank (H260)

[Sublime]

Mine has some debris in it so I'll need to fill it and drain it a few times. It would take three weeks using the faucets to drain it.
Anyway, does anyone have some methods that avoid using the faucets?
Also, any tips for keeping that water in drinking/washing dishes condition?

 

[cephius (Dave)]

At the end of the season I pump all the water out of the fresh water tank using an electric water pump. I disconnect the line under the galley sink and slip the pump intake hose over the water line. The pump discharge hose goes overboard. I have about 10' of hose on both the intake and discharge.

The pump I use is the same one larger boats have for their pressurized fresh water system.

I've done what you need to do, flushed several tanks of water through the system to remove, in my case, winterizing antifreeze. It takes about 10 min to pump the H260 tank dry. Note that these pumps are not designed for continuous running. I monitor the temperature and allow cool-downs as needed.

Since I started using the pump I no longer need to add antifreeze because my tank and lines are all dry for the winter.

I use my water tank primarily as forward ballast, and for washing hands and dishes. I've started bringing bottled water aboard for drinking and cooking.

 

[soling42]

Try the expert forum on this site for water treatment advice. You might get a skinny siphon hose down the fill spout to drain the tank. From the pic I took of ours the fittings are both straight in but Daves advice sounds good too.

"Debris" is pretty vague. Are we talking about green algae glop or pvc filings from the install. When I fill mine I always add a small cap(1 tblp) of bleach to 20gals but I don't drink it either.
Mike

 

[Sublime]

I think it's algae. I noticed it when I winterized. Some brown algae like flecks came out of the faucets and I could see more in the tank. I'm not sure how algae can grow in there since light hasn't been able to reach it.

I mostly want to use it for washing dishes or hands so it needs to be clean enough for that which I'd say needs to be near of drinkable quality.
I believe I have a water pump for fountains laying around which can be run inline instead of submersed. Tubing for that should be easy to find. Connecting it to a faucet hose sounds like a good idea.

For drinking water, I usually get a gallon or so of drinking water and use an empty saved jug from last time, empty half the new jug into the old and freeze. Then fill with more water and put it in the ice chest. It keeps the ice chest cold, prevents food from swimming as ice melts, and gives me refreshing cold water. Longer stays I might freeze an entire jug and use the water as it melts.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Recommission the system

I think it's algae. I noticed it when I winterized. Some brown algae like flecks came out of the faucets and I could see more in the tank. I'm not sure how algae can grow in there since light hasn't been able to reach it.

It's NOT algae...it's molds and fungus that thrive in damp dark places...like the fresh water plumbing on a boat that isn't full of water when the pump is off. Those critters especially like warm weather.

The cure: recommission the fresh water system...the whole system, not just the tank. I've posted the directions at least a dozen times...you should be able to find 'em if you search for "Fresh water maintenance" or "recommission fresh water." This should be done annually as part of spring recommissioning...if you do, your onboard water should taste and smell as good as any from a faucet on land.

And btw, it gets rid of the antifreeze taste/smell too.

 

[Sublime]

Thank you Peggie.

[FONT=&quot]The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded…bleach does absolutely nothing to improve the flavor of good Scotch![/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/4 cup (2 oz or 25 ml) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. (Those are the “official” directions. They work out to 1 quart or litre of bleach/50 gallons of water , which is MUCH easier to calculate!)[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vessel motion. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by filing the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]

My faucets are manual. It takes a few pumps before water starts to come out so the solution wouldn't remain in the lines. I'll have to experiment I guess. Maybe some vacuum line caps over the ends of the faucets will prevent that.
[/FONT]

 

[cephius (Dave)]

Sublime,
I've noticed that when my tank is completely filled, the pressure from the hose causes the excess water to squirt out the vent, and both faucets. You may be able to hold the water in the feed lines by reducing the fill pressure just enough to stop the faucets from flowing. Should be doable for the 3 hour stand time.

 

[Bob 04 H260]

I added a clean out port to the water tank as illustrated by George on his great H260 web site, here, http://kobernus.com/hunter260/water/water.html

I sealed it up with silicone rubber for aquariums. It is a great mod and allows easy clean up and draining of the tank.

The clear top allows you to see the water anytime if you get concerned about what may have come out of the hose at a marina.

Bob

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

I added a clean out port to the water tank...The clear top allows you to see the water anytime if you get concerned about what may have come out of the hose at a marina. Bob

There's a bit more to the Fresh Water Maintenance Instructions than "Sublime" posted:

[FONT=&quot]To keep the water system cleaner longer, use your fresh water...keep water flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only start to grow in hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each time, always let the dock water run for at least 15 minutes first...the same critters that like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply line and your hose that sit in the warm sun, and you certainly don't want to transfer water that's been sitting in the dock supply line to your boat's system. So let the water run long enough to flush out all the water that's been standing in them so that what goes into your boat is coming straight from the water main. [/FONT]

 

[Deucer]

I put an access port in the top like Georges. To get all the water out, I use an old bilge pump (outlet connection broke off of original pump, so I upgraded the one on bilge and had this one lying around) with enough hose to pump it out of the bow hatch and over the side. Ran it off of a battery pack. Took about five minutes or less to empty the tank. Then I cleaned the tank by hand. Didn't have anything growing, though.