Flushing diesel engine and air conditioner

[goofeyfoot]

Flushing diesel engine and air conditioner

Hello:

I am kind of new to all of this maintenance stuff.

I want to flush my engine with barnacle buster or equivalent. I have seen a product called Sea flush. Don’t know if that is the way to go, or whether there is a better way.

I’m wondering what I need to assemble for a system to flush the engine.

I’m hoping to use the same system, whatever it is, to do the air-conditioner.

Thanks.

Michael

 

[SG]

Why do you want to do this? Is something wrong?

What engine, how many hours?
What type of air conditioner?

 

[justsomeguy]

I’m wondering what I need to assemble for a system to flush the engine.

Plenty of videos on the internet for that kind of stuff.

 

[goofeyfoot]

It is a Volvo M.D. 2020.

T The air-conditioner is a Cruiseair. The reason I’m doing this is that it hasn’t been done in three years. I’m of the belief that you deal with problems before they deal with you.

 

[SG]

I wouldn't use acid flush in an AC unit unless you have some reason to believe it's not working, GoofeyFoot. [I hope that isn't a\your nom de web or 'handle' because some injury :^))]

Similary, I'd not flush the antifreeze just to do so. Do you have a heat exchanger or is the engine raw water cooled? If you have a heat exchanger, and you want to do something more proactive. You might take out the core and have it ultrasonically cleaned by a radiator shop. The acid cleaning is not as effective and may just lead to unintended problems, in my experience. Again: IF the engine doesn't overheat at higher rpm's under load, I'd not do that. Change the impellers, check the hoses, etc., etc.

By the way, where are you generally based? Where was the boat sailed or how well used were it's systems, etc., etc. Age and history might influence advice here. Do the engine and its' compartment look like it needs a bunch of TLC?

 

[JamesG161]

If you will post your general area, it may be easier to help.
But...
https://trac-online.com/product/sea-flush
The makers of Barnacle Busters.
Jim...

PS: Simple flushing will NOT remove scale.

 

[goofeyfoot]

Thanks folks.

The boat is located on the Pamlico River in North Carolina. The water is brackish and full of what I think is tannin. Ugly brown stuff, but not harmful.

Why am I doing this? I just want to get inro some good habits. The engine has been around since about 2001. I’d say it’s been maintained generally but I don’t think anyone’s gone out of their way to do stuff like what I’m talking about. Just trying to avoid problems.

The air-conditioner seems to have pretty good water flow through it although it’s not a perfect stream, it seems like there’s some little obstruction that’s making the stream a bit crooked if that makes any sense. So I thought something had to go through the system to clean it.

Admittedly, I may be over thinking all this.

Paranoia mostly

 

[goofeyfoot]

Oh sorry, I should’ve mentioned the boat is with a heat exchanger.

Also there is no temperature gauge on the boat. There is an idiot light. How can I measure the temperature of the engine periodically to make sure I’m not overheating?

I should mention to you that there is some kind of a coolant leak. I suspect it may be a hose. I’m going to put a pressure device on it this weekend to see whether I can find where the leak is coming from.

 

[jssailem]

Here is a good starter read into the mystery of over heating engines.
https://marinehowto.com/engine-temp-monitoring-and-overheating-assessment/

While preventive maintenance practices are a part of good boat management, some ideas are just idle work. (Reason for the query about where your living and what is wrong). Most of us would rather be out sailing than to just work on the boat to exchange water and buy chemicals of dubious nature. Identifying a problem and then fixing it, now that’s the whole meatball.

If you have cleaned the sea water strainer, checked the through hull and all the hoses are tight no leaks, the impeller is ok and the cover seal is leak free you've covered the issues pretty well. While it is ok to flush the lines, When you run the engine that is pretty much what is going on. A good volume water stream that increases and decreases as you change engine speed is design spec. As always what you choose to do is all good.

We all have a gadget or two on the boat that works sometimes and does it’s thing. That in the evening with a sundown beverage we look at it and wonder. Why in the hell did I spend good money for that worthless gadget.

In the end, It is your boat and your decision.

 

[Davidasailor26]

You could get a laser thermometer (pretty cheap harbor freight one should work) and point it at the fresh water pump body. That will give you an idea of engine temperature. Personally I wouldn't bother with a cleaning solution unless you know there's a problem there.

As for the coolant leak - Do you think there's a leak because you're losing coolant or because you see it under the engine? If you see it under the engine the best way to track it down is probably just following the drips. If you don't see it coming out anywhere, then it's lost either through the head gasket or (much more likely) through the heat exchanger).

 

[JamesG161]

The water is brackish and full of what I think is tannin. Ugly brown stuff, but not harmful.

Your AC , by Cruiseair or Dometic use a Cooper/Nickel alloy for their seawater exchangers that is proven for Hot Tub heaters.
I now add these for continuous cleaning and maintenance.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Clorox-Pool-Spa-Small-Pool-1-Chlorinating-Tablets-1-5-lbs/41465552
I put 2 tablets in my AC strainer after checking the compatibility of my strainers and hoses.
Basically it is a gentle continuous Clorox cleaning.

This is not normally for the Engine exchanger, but one time use should not be harmful.

As most have suggested, get a Laser Temperature gun. Record the In and Out temperatures of the seawater, 2 times a sailing season. If you note a "closing" of the Temperature differences, then you have "fouling".

Jim...

PS: I also shoot the temperatures of my running Engine's belts, oil flow, coolant, etc to head off problems.
PSS: I did call Dometic and confirmed their exchangers compatibility with Chlorine.

 

[goofeyfoot]

Thanks folks:
I yesterday put a pressure tester on the heat exchanger and boy the leak was surely obvious. The hose that’s connected to the freshwater pump was leaking badly right where the clamp is. That’s why the sump was full of coolant. A friend and I reseated the hose and added the second clamp. Then the system held pressure. So I think I’ve got the cooling issue fixed. I bought the laser temperature gage. But I haven’t had a chance to take the boat out and try it.

I also found that the radiator cap had about a quarter more turn to lock it down than I thought. In other words it got tight towards the end of the turn but there was more twist to snug it. So I suspect my cap may have been weeping coolant also.

I like the chlorinating tablets idea simply for its ease. Hooking up circulating pumps and all that seems like a labor-intensive operation for a simple preventative measure.

I really appreciate all the advice. It has saved me loads of time.

Michael