Flush Lever on Older Raritan Head

Peggie Hall HeadMistress · Jun 14, 2016

There are/were two manual Raritan toilets desginated as II...one of them--the PHII doesn't have a wet/dry flush LEVER, it has a knob that you turn. So I'm guessing you have a Compact II, which was discontinued several years ago, btw. Here's the link to the owners manual: Raritan Compact II Owners Manual It doesn't spell out the direction of the wet/dry lever to bring in flush water or close it off...but it should be pretty obvious which way brings in water when you pump the toilet in each position and which way doesn't. Make note of it so you can tell your guests.

However--as you almost found out the hard way--leaving the seacock open and relying on the wet/dry valve to keep water OUTside the boat from finding its own level INside the boat when no one is aboard has sunk many a boat in its slip...you were lucky you hadn't stayed away any longer. ALWAYS close ALL the seacocks last thing before you leave.

But that's not all you need to do. Whoever installed the toilet failed to install a vented loop in the toilet intake line...see "FIGURE 2 Below Waterline Installation" at the bottom of page 3 in the owners manual for the correct location...which is NOT in the line between the thru-hull and the pump, but between the pump and the bowl. It has to be at least 6-8" above waterline AT ANY ANGLE OF HEEL, not just when the boat is at rest, which on most sailboats puts it 2-3 FEET above the bowl see the drawing and also the photo below (you only need the small one that's tucked under the one that would go in the discharge line if your toilet were plumbed to flush directly overboard.) That means you'll replace the short piece of hose that connects the pump to the bowl now.

You seem to be kinda new at marine toilets and also the holding tank you surely must have in your waters...so I suggest you check out the link in my signature here...it goes to a comprehensive "marine toilets and holding tanks 101" manual that will help you learn how to prevent problems instead of solving 'em...and I'm always glad to answer questions too. So anything you don't get about what I've said here, ASK...you'll get plenty of help.

Gunni · Jun 14, 2016

Find the seawater supply thru-hull and turn it to the off position when not using the head. On is in-line with the hose, off is 90deg to hose direction. You cannot trust the wet bowl/dry bowl switch you refer to.

Peggie Hall HeadMistress · Jun 14, 2016

Installing the intake vented loop should make it unnecessary to close the seacock while aboard, but absolutely necessary when leaving the boat!

Kermit · Jun 14, 2016

I don't give out advice often here. But I'm giving advice now. Do *exactly* what Peggie says to do. You'll be glad you did.

Benny17441 · Jun 14, 2016

Been there; not pleasant to step in the middle of the night into an inch or two of water. Of all the thru-hull valves the one most prone to sink a boat is the head intake. Instead of trusting inspected hoses and clamps you are dealing with hidden seals inside a toilet valve. It usually happens when guests are aboard. Make a mental note of checking the valve before retiring for the night and always shut the intake valve off before leaving the boat unattended.

Peggie Hall HeadMistress · Jun 14, 2016

I just noticed something AB...you've been here for 6 years and this was your first post? That's what I consider world class lurking! Glad you finally decided to join the conversation!

Also been thinking... As you've already made note, your toilet is old and everything has a lifespan...at the very least it has to need a rebuild kit. Instead of spending money on it, if your budget will stand it, now would be an excellent time to upgrade it to the new Raritan PH SuperFlush Raritan PH SuperFlush which replaces both the PH II and the PHC (the PHC replaced the Compact II). It's available for <$300. You wouldn't have to change any plumbing except to add the same intake vented loop that's needed for your Compact II..that is unless, your hoses are more than 10 years old (the average working life of any hose because they dry out, become hard and brittle and start to crack). If they are, I'd replace 'em all. Give it some thought....

Gunni · Jun 15, 2016

Unless I wanted to take the time and effort to plumb those stinking vented loops out of the boat, turning off the thru-hull supply is the instant fix to flooding.

Peggie Hall HeadMistress · Jun 15, 2016

Gunni, people are fallible...they can forget to leave the toilet in the dry mode or forget to close a seacock...vented loops are fail-safe. They PREVENT flooding, eliminating any need for an "instant fix" when someone notices the bowl has overflowed And they don't stink--or squirt--unless the air valve (it threads into the nipple on the top of the loop...see photo, they aren't all red, btw) is missing. Because air valves are parts that need occasional cleaning and do wear out, they're sold separately, so most boat owners--you apparently included--don't know they exist.

Peggie Hall HeadMistress · Jun 15, 2016

There's a "Plan B" for this season that's a little better than cups and the lee rail, especially for the ladies: go ahead pull out your whole system now, except maybe the tank, which may not need replacing if it's plastic...it won't hurt it to sit empty, though you may need to clean it out very thoroughly ... and pick up a portapotty from Walmart to use for the rest of the season. When you're ready to install a good system, I'll be glad to help you get enough "potty training" to know whether the person you hire to do the job actually knows what HE's doing...'cuz you do want to get it all right the first time.

Mark Maulden · Jun 15, 2016

Lee rail is a surefire way to go for an unintended swim.....

Gunni · Jun 16, 2016

Replacing a head is one day job, or less. It is time. Most of them share the same base mounting bolt circle. Squating over a cedar bucket and dumping it in the lake is sub-optimal and illegal. So get a new head, connect it up to your existing waste discharge hose, install a new seawater intake hose looped above the heeled waterline and include one of those loop vents that Peggie shows. Get back to civilized sailing.

Kermit · Jun 16, 2016

I installed my new Raritan on a couple of hours. Woulda gone quicker if I were any good at handyman stuff.

Peggie Hall HeadMistress · Jun 16, 2016

Hey fellas...it may be a matter of whether his budget can stand a new toilet right now...his 40 yr old boat may be chewing up his available boat bucks for things he needs more than a new toilet. A portapotty definitely isn't elegant, but it's legal and cheap. Several choices at Walmart would get him through the rest of this season: http://www.walmart.com/search/?query=portapotty

Peggie Hall HeadMistress · Jun 16, 2016

Good decision...You're gonna LOVE the new Raritan SuperFlush!

woodster · Jun 17, 2016

Peggie Hall HeadMistress said:
Good decision...You're gonna LOVE the new Raritan SuperFlush!

i hope the new design wasn't so much improved that it made mine chopped liver

Peggie Hall HeadMistress · Jun 17, 2016

Nope...it still uses the PH II pump.

Flush Lever on Older Raritan Head

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