Flower pot on the stove!

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Dec 2, 2003
4,245
- - Seabeck WA
Tom, I'm a big fan of propane but I guarantee

that a one pound container of LPG leaking, can blow up any boat that you or I can afford. That much gas can even bring down any mega yacht.
 
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tom

Hi Fred I agree

that if you dumped the whole tank at once it could cause an explosion. But IMHO the risk is much less that a 20# tank. My point was that if you used a portable heater once in a while to warm up the risk is probably pretty small. With a small leak the tank would probably empty before you had dangerous concentrations of gas. And I agree with Gord that a power vent is a better faster way to get rid of the gas. But if you remove the source of the gas within a hour or so the gas should disipate using passive ventilation. Even then I wouldn't light a match!!!
 
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Tom

CO is serious

THis is a good thread. Just this morning a couple were found dead on their boat at a dock in Victoria. They had left their engine running when they went to bed "to keep warm" there was a co leak in their exhaust and they never woke up. Sure an unvented heater is cheap but wouldn't you rather wake up cold than not wake up at all? It would be my opinion that in the confined area of a boat cabin that even a 1lb propane heater could create enough CO to cause death or serious injury. CO only has to exist in very small quantities to impair health or cause death. Don't become statistic just to save a few hundred bucks - invest in a fully vented heater. I myself have a Dickenson vented heater which draws combustion air from outside and exhausts it outside and even with that I never go to bed with the heater on. We have a down comforter which keeps us snug even in NW Fall/Spring weather.
 
Dec 2, 2003
4,245
- - Seabeck WA
Tom, good scoop, we can all use that reminder

Peggie (head mistress) stated a couple of months ago that NO ONE has ever died of diesel engine CO. They don't make much. And also, the one thing I found in your link to the Coast Guard that I don't agree with, is that they lumped propane appliances in with other fossil fuel burners as being a potential for incomplete combustion. That would be tough. How can that happen?
 
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Tom

diesel or gasoline

Sorry Fred I didn't state the boat in the CO poisoning deaths was a gas engine. Peggy may be right but I stick with my rule which is I'd rather wake up cold than not wake up. It is my underatanding that CO is a product of combustion of the burning of any fuel that contains carbon ie gasoline, LPG, Diesel, natural gas, wood etc.
 
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Walt Pierce

A Trawler, Jr. kerosene lantern will warm a mariner.

I spent a few weeks late fall and early winter on a Mariner on the lower Ohio River. Night time lows were in the upper 20's. The open rear of the Mariner cabin was enclosed. In the wall I put hatch boards and a small utility window. With the window opened a crack, that little lantern would consistently heat the cabin 10-15 degrees, depending upon the wind. In a sleeping bag on a good pad there was no problem keeping warm. And, you didn't even have to take a shower in the morning. You got a constant sprinkling of pure water all night long! I mean the condensation was fierce! Any thoughts on reducing the condensation?
 
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Gord May

Reducing Condensation

Walt: There are numerous ways to reduce condensation in shore-side buildings; but I can only think of two that are practical aboard boats. 1. Reduce (specific) moisture content of the indoor air. - Avoid lifestyle activities that tend to add water to the inside air [boiling water, showering, breathing :), etc.]. - Keep you bilges dry. - Employ de-humidifiers (static hygroscopic/dessicant like “Dri-Z”, or mechanical type) 2. Ventilate, by natural & mechanical means. - Circulate air throughout the boat (natural cross ventilation & fans), including behind upholstery & within cabinets & lockers. - Exhaust moist air (through open hatches & powered vents etc.).
 
Dec 2, 2003
4,245
- - Seabeck WA
Gord, another good post. What about

warming the air with a outside vented furnace? I've read that warming the air will reduce the humidity fifty percent. (in a space)
 
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Gord May

Condensation & Dewpoint

DEW POINT & CONDENSATION: Avoiding condensation in any enclosed space (like our boats) is simply a matter of keeping the dewpoint in the interior air low enough that it doesn't exceed the lowest surface temp in the space (likely the hull or overherd). The concept of DP is related to relative humidity, but is more useful to our discussion, because whereas (as Fred states) the relative humidity changes radically as the temperature of the air changes - the dewpoint does not. Dew forms on surfaces that are cooler than the dewpoint temperature of the air. Dewpoint and relative humidity are related. The higher the dewpoint, the higher the relative humidity, and the dewpoint and the air temperature will be closer.  The relative humidity is the ratio of the actual vapor pressure to the saturation vapor pressure at the air temperature, expressed in percent. Relative humidity displays an inverse relationship with absolute temperature when the vapor pressure is held constant. The Dewpoint is the temperature the air would have if it were cooled , at constant pressure and water vapor content, until saturation (or condensation) occurred. Formation of condensation will take place when humid air meets a cold surface - like a boat hull or overhead. The air around the cold hull will cool down and the water vapour will be condensed as droplets on the hull. It is a question of the dewpoint of the atmosphere (or the dewpoint temperature) being higher than the temperature of the colder hull surface. In practice, condensation is found in boats, where the cold hull is "sweating"- the dewpoint of the air being high and the hull being cold. Because it is usually impractical to install adequate insulation & vapour barrier systems on boats (thereby increasing the interior hull surface temperature), the simplest solution is to lower the dewpoint of the air to a value inferior to the temperature of the coldest surface. The only possibility of lowering the dewpoint is by means of dehumidification & ventilation. I know of no other alternatives.  Because this whole subject is really quite complicated, and I am (in no way) expert; I invite your informed criticism. Am I “full of it”? :) OMO & regards,
 
Jan 8, 2004
39
- - New Port Richey, FL
I followed you and agree

a dehumidifier is he answer. But I am personally insulating the hull, shutting off the V berth and insulate there too, closing off the under the cockpit area and insulating that too. I am going to see if I can devise a small DC dehumidifier that will be inexpensive. My boat's expense allowance has been depleted and I still need vhf and gps. So it will have to be something I have on hand or can bum from a friend. This is a great discussion, I hope it never ends. Regards Bud
 
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Rodd C.

LP combustion is almost %50 H2o Vapor..

When you use a non vented propane appliance in an enclosed space you have probably noticed that things get damp! LP combustion is approx fifty percent water vapor. Add apot of boiling water and that number climbs higher. We used to have a Force 10 cabin heater that drenched the interior of our boat. I used an infared thermometer and found that close to 40% percent of the flu gasses were not going up the ridiculously small 1" stack hence the moisture problem! If you add LP cabin heat go with a sealed combustion unit like the Dickinson P 9000. LP gas is not a problem as long as your not an idiot... For what it's worth a friend added a diesel cabin heater and the heat was very dry but he ruined $6000.00 worth of Tan canvas when the unit started burning poorly and soot stained not only his canvas but his deck as well. -Rodd C.
 
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Rodd C.

If LP is really as dangerous as people make it out

Then why do we not hear of houses blowing up in droves all across the country? Thousands of my fellow neighbors here in Maine have non sealed combustion LP gas hydronic boilers and forced air furnaces, installed in below grade, ten foot deep, basements with no way for the LP gas to escape or drain. My friend Eric added a 10X10 mudroom addition to his 200 year old house and that's where his lp gas boiler is. The foundation is approx 8 feet deep with no bulkhead and no sump pump hole. In essence, it's like a ten by ten swimming pool or the bilge of a 30+ foot boat. He has no LP sniffing sensors that tell him if he has a gas leak, no solenoids to turn of when the boiler is not in use and his boiler is not sealed combustion! When he uses up the air in the room the chimney gases have a very tough time of creating a draft and can actually create a vaccuum effect (I've tried to talk him into a makeup air kit but he doesn't care).. The FEW explosions, of boats, that have been exploited by the marine industry are bantered around to sell us more systems than we really need! Each of these explosions have been USER eror! Think about it. If LP gas was really as bad as Boat US, West Marine, Xintex and Trident say it is don't you think the insurance industry would have an adder (premium) for all boats with an LP gas system?? One story I read said the boat owner would put his one pound bottles of LP gas away with the Magma regulator still attached! Something compressed the dial and kaboom. LP is as safe as anything it's the idiots that operate the boat that are the problem. What ever happened to common sense??? Yes CNG is lighter than air but if your hatches are closed, and there is a fuel leak, with an ignition source your boat WILL also blow up! Diesel is very safe but who wants a cabin that smells like a truck stop and is filled with soot? Non fuel injected gas engines are far more dangerous than LP Gas and how many Atomic four carbureted gas engines do you hear about blowing up?? Most older Atomic four boats don't even have bilge blowers that work and the "exposed to the air" float bowl on a carburetor will give off a fair amout of fumes. Common sense and knowledge of your boats systems is all that is needed... -Rodd C
 
Dec 2, 2003
4,245
- - Seabeck WA
Rodd and Gord, look back. This all started with a

flower pot on the stove. :) Gord, you wrote a text book. What do you mean by saying you are no expert? Rodd, I'm with you on Propane. Your post is like one I wrote here a few months ago. I got jumped on by several folks including Peggie Hall, but I stand by our opinions. Oh, one night, on duty,(police work) a building that housed a well known business BLEW UP. I responded to the scene. Nothing was left. Boards were scattered for a block. Clearly a gas explosion. No basement either. It was never explained. (by the gas company) Nope, not propane. Natural Gas.
 
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Gord May

Please, refer to the

REAL EXPERTS, and TEXTS. Indeed, this discussion began with a comfort issue (flower pot on a stove - a cheap radiator), and quickly evolved into a much broader discussion about propane (LPG), and LIFE-SAFETY issues. I am a project coordinator (& Electrical designer) for a consulting Engineering firm that performs Mechanical (HVAC), Plumbing, Electrical & Structural systems design, and construction supervision (for shoreside buildings). I do NOT design HVAC systems, but I do enforce the sanctity of our designs (during construction). Hence, I am very familiar with the theoretical background and practical applications of safe & effective HVAC systems, but NOT expert. I do have some exprtise on boats & boat systems. I’ve often wondered (aloud): “If you didn’t have the time to do it right in the first place - when will you ever get the time to fix it?” It should also be obvious that the words “money”, “knowledge” or “skill” et. al. could be substituted for “time”. The corollary might be completed: “... - are you certain you’ll get the chance to fix it?” I think it’s very important to be accurate, when dealing with any safety-related issues. I’m too often dismayed by the cavalier attitude that some boaters seem to exhibit towards “quality” and “safety” issues; and their apparent disregard for understanding the many complexities involved in proper marine systems design, installation, maintenance & operation. This would include (my opinion of) those who publish ill-conceived, inaccurate, incomplete, and sometimes dangerous statements and opinions - on Forums, Bulletin Boards, and elsewhere. There is a certain “Caveat Emptor” (buyer beware) that must apply to, and guide the faith and credence with which we accept (or reject) the statements, opinions & etc. that we read on these Forums. Nonetheless, I believe that each of us must self-impose a certain high standard of accuracy when posting unmitigated or unequivocal information and/or opinion. Any statement of “fact” should be both accurate and complete enough to be practically applied by the intended audience. At other times, authors may offer discernibly tentative or limited opinions. It should be readily apparent, by word or context, what limitations the author intends for his “authority” on the subject. I wrote at such length, to provide SOME of the important information required to make informed decisions regarding cabin heating (with particular reference to LPG fired solutions). Some of what I wrote was background theory, some prescriptive opinion (perhaps worth almost what you‘re paying for it :)), and in one case a resolution upon which further debate was invited. These are important LIFE-SAFETY issues we have been discussing, so I urge everyone to do their due diligence prior to designing & installing any fuel-fired device. I hope the litlle information I've provided will peak your interest, and send you to the real experts for more information! Propane (as are all hydrocarbon fuels) is an inherently dangerous product - but properly conceived & installed Propane Systems CAN BE very safe. As to FLOWERPOTS on a stove: My previous posts should indicate my opinion that the practice is (mostly) ineffective & unsafe. I’ve never seen a vented stovetop or range on a boat. As to INSULATION: Any insulation must have a Moisture Barrier, which prevents the airborn water vapour from penetrating the insulation, meeting the cold(er) hull behind, and condensing (remember dewpoint). A good insulation & vapour barrier system might be a shoreside engineer’s first tool in the battle against both heat loss & condensation - tho’ it’s (mostly) difficult to achieve in a boat. A final thought: the insulation & vapour-barrier must be fire resistant. Regards, Gord
 
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Tim Welsh

Hey Colin

Thow away the flowerpot and invite some of us from this string down. I think there would be no problem with keeping the boat warm with all of the hot air generated from this string. Tim Welsh Cabo Wabo
 
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Tim Welsh

Hey gord

The best i can tell 48 north by 89 west is just barley north of duluth by hwy 102, I know this doesn't apply to the string, I was just testing my gps...... Am I correct? I'm 35' north by 92 west
 
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Gord May

Tim: Your GPS

is correct. I'm actually closer to 48.5 N 89.32 W, which is Thunder Bay, Ontario (4 Hrs from Duluth by Hwy 102).
 
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