Float switch

[Sublime]

My 260 has the factory float switch and I'm trying to figure out how to test it. It looks as though it has a cover over it which is attached with a rivet.
I stuck a screw driver down into the deep hole that I can't really see in to and wasn't able to loosen it. So I poured some water, trying to aim for the holes on the side of the cover. I don't think it was enough to trip it.

It's such a PIA to test that I might replace it anyway.

 

[Charisma]

On our 98-H26 there is a toggle switch with a manual setting. Chris

 

[Deucer]

You might try making a temporary dam around the switch (6" dia PVC pipe?). Or, cut the bottom out of a coffee can. Place it over the switch, fill it with water and see if it trips the switch. The toogle switch Charisma is talking about, I think, just checks the pump, not the float switch.

 

[MikeH]

Yes, the toggle switch on the main panel only tests the pump and is not an indicator as to whether the float switch is functioning properly. Putting a dam, like an open bottom coffee can or 6" PVC section around the float switch and filling it with water will raise the float inside the switch and test its activation capability.

You can also unfasten the switch from the bilge and raise the float up from beneath it to test it. We had to replace ours when it failed after 7 years...

 

[Merlin Clark]

I find it very handy to mount the bilge pump and switch to a piece of angle aluminum so that I can lift it all out of the bilge to service. The angle should be long enough to attach to something within easy reach and the hose and wires can be zip tied to the angle.
Mounting a bilge pump/switch where the owner can't get to it is a mistake on the builders part.
Just my 2c.

 

[Sublime]

Yes, the toggle switch on the main panel only tests the pump and is not an indicator as to whether the float switch is functioning properly. Putting a dam, like an open bottom coffee can or 6" PVC section around the float switch and filling it with water will raise the float inside the switch and test its activation capability.

You can also unfasten the switch from the bilge and raise the float up from beneath it to test it. We had to replace ours when it failed after 7 years...

What is the original fastened to the bilge with? My eyes fail me when looking to see the screw or rivet or whatever it is.

 

[soling42]

There's a skinny wooden block glassed onto the hull that the pump and switch are screwed to. My pump has two tabs that release it from the strainer basket that's screwed to the block. It's impossible for the bilge pump to totally clear the water from the 26/260 bilge with the float switch because the bilge is so wide and shallow. My bilge is usually pretty dry and I don't think my float switch has ever been submerged enough to be activated.

The pic below shows the stock position but I've since glued the strainer basket slightly fwd and directly to the hull at the lowest possible spot. Even then, when the pump's run manually there's usually 2-3gals remaining that will wet the edges of the aft bunk and cause a funky musk when you're heeling unless you get it dried out.

After a windy day, when I usually see a little more water in the bilge, I sometimes run the pump manually from the panel switch to get out as much water as possible then encourage Kelli to get in there with a rag and bucket.......but all I get is "the look". Go figure

Mike

 

[cephius (Dave)]

I have to agree. The only time I get water in that area is when I'm over zealous with the cleaning bucket.

The bilge on the H260 is so small and far aft that I catch most of my water under the galley sink instead of where the pump is.

 

[Sublime]

After much google searching, I found that there is a tiny rod you twist under the wires to test the switch. Essentially grab the wires and twist and you'll be twisting the rod.
It's still working. :dance: