Float sensor for bilge

[faithforster26@msn.com]

Hi: Our float sensor seems to have given up the ghost. I bought a new Rule-a-Matic and was told that it is easy to install. After reading the instructions, I am at a bit of a loss. Wondered if anyone could give me some clear instructions on how to replace without electrocuting myself or other nasties.
Any help would be appreciated.
Many Thanks,
Faith

 

[Bad Obsession]

Determine how your bilge pump is hooked up....Is it directly wired to the batteries or does it run to the switch panel at the Nav Station?

Either way, you can disconnect the hot wire off of your batteries and that will shut down the whole system so you have no risk of being shocked.

Now....Go to your bilge pump and trace your wires to see where they lead. Somewhere in the bilge the float switch should connect into the hot wire of your bilge pump. If you locate this area you can remove it at the connections.

Put the new float switch in place and connect the wires with the proper wire connectors. Once you have done this you can go back and connect the hot wire of your batteries and then test the pump.

This is a very easy 12V wiring project and it shouldn't give you much trouble.

 

[faithforster26@msn.com]

Thanks so much for your straightforward directions for the float sensor. I shall try it.
Faith

 

[mortyd]

this is exaclty why i hired somebody i trust to install my rule a matic switch. it's not a big job.

 

[Bad Obsession]

I don't care for most of the Rule Float Switches. The cheaper ones are crap and they get stuck or hung easily.

 

[Godefroy]

One important part: don't forget the shrink tube for this install! Despite the goal to avoid having water in the bilge in the first place, having uninsulated wires in the bilge can make you wish you had no pump at all.

I just did some bilge work, replacing a float switch (the old one was more of a sink switch) for my old 2k gph and installing a new automatic 800gph as a primary service pump. Rigged 'em up with a set of brass swing check valves and a splitter so they would pump overboard instead of recirculating.

To continue the theme, I'm thinking about shifting the wiring of the automatic to either the accessory bus off the engine, or to the service bus instead of straight off the battery. I would do this because (a) the pump runs every 2.5 minutes if there is water or not, (b) I would like to minimize pump duty cycle, and (c) I only get water in the bilge from heavy rain or when the engine is running. I think having the main (2k) pump as duty pump in port and the auto (800) as the primary underway would help share the load, but I'm concerned about having a pump that isn't always powered. Thoughts?