Flexing Floor

Plymouth Sailor

Plymouth Sailor

.
Dec 11, 2015
311
Hunter 25 Plymouth
Dear Fellow Sailors:

Just bought a new to me Irwin 28, upgrading from a Hunter 25. I’m doing some refurbishing and found a part of the cabin floor to be a bit flexible. There is a slight tiny space underneath as a leading bilge to the main bilge (really unnecessary). Any suggestion how I fill that space in to stop the flex before I place a new floor layer on top?
 
jssailem

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,360
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Plymouth Sailor, could you share some images of the area you identify as the concern. It would help us not experienced with your Irwin 28 to offer ideas. This sounds like a construction issue. This is not an individual OEM issue. Sounds like more of a general boat construction issue which could be relevant from a sailing dinghy to a big power boat.
 
Plymouth Sailor

Plymouth Sailor

.
Dec 11, 2015
311
Hunter 25 Plymouth
jssailem said:
Plymouth Sailor, could you share some images of the area you identify as the concern. It would help us not experienced with your Irwin 28 to offer ideas. This sounds like a construction issue. This is not an individual OEM issue. Sounds like more of a general boat construction issue which could be relevant from a sailing dinghy to a big power boat.
Click to expand
Thanks, she’s an old boat (1972) so there may be some fatigue but not in any hull integrity sort of way. The space below is about 2 inches so I’ve considered some wood with epoxy to reinforce the floor before I lay down some faux teak. The attached photo isn’t the exact location however shows the general are.
 

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dlochner

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Jan 11, 2014
13,059
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Plymouth Sailor said:
Dear Fellow Sailors:

Just bought a new to me Irwin 28, upgrading from a Hunter 25. I’m doing some refurbishing and found a part of the cabin floor to be a bit flexible. There is a slight tiny space underneath as a leading bilge to the main bilge (really unnecessary). Any suggestion how I fill that space in to stop the flex before I place a new floor layer on top?
Click to expand
All bilge areas need to be connected. This allows any water that might enter the boat to drain into the lowest part of the bilge where it can be pumped overboard. If drainage is not provided, the water would collect and damage the boat. In a cold climate it could freeze, causing structural damage. In warmer climates it provides a good environment for mold and mildew and can cause rot in any wood in the area.

If you add support to the floor, do not block any potential water flow. The drain holes in a floor are called limber holes. When adding a new sole, leave access to the bilge where there are currently access panels.

Wedging and epoxying wood between the hull and the sole would stiffen it, however it might also create hard spots in the hull. A better approach might be adding support under the sole but not in contact with the hull.
 
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PaulK

PaulK

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Dec 1, 2009
1,416
Sabre 402 Southport, CT
Sounds like your floorboards may have some delamination going on. They're probably made of plywood and moisture has gotten in and broken the glue bonds between the plys, so it's not as stiff as it was originally. You can make new ones from new teak & holly plywood by tracing the old floorboards. Paint the new floorboards with epoxy to keep moisture out of them, then several coats of varnish to protect against UV degradation. dlochner's suggestion of adding a stiffening batten on the underside of the existing sole is another option that might be quicker. The sole needs to be in good enough shape to hold the fasteners, however. Your description of the scene doesn't make that certain.
 
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jssailem

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,360
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Plymouth Sailor, in the image you transmitted, I did not see a typical floor. The area of the floor visible was in the V berth. It appeared to reflect the shape of the hull (slopped sides). If so I would be very cautious drilling into that area. It may be the hull itself.

From your attached text it appears you did not show the actual area of concern.

Not knowing definitively the area you are concerned about, any suggestion would be little more than a SWAG... I would not be working on my boat based on a SWAG.
 
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FastOlson

FastOlson

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Apr 8, 2010
2,139
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
It is easier to receive relevant help and commentary if the OP uses correct terminology. Boats do have "floors" beneath their cabin "soles". It sounds like the sole has some problem.
Also, for other site members searching for relevant threads, it's a great help to use correct terminology in the title, even tho we can usually guess what is really being asked about.
Please do not be offended.... uniform descriptions help us to help you.
Good luck on finding a fix.
 
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Plymouth Sailor

Plymouth Sailor

.
Dec 11, 2015
311
Hunter 25 Plymouth
FastOlson said:
It is easier to receive relevant help and commentary if the OP uses correct terminology. Boats do have "floors" beneath their cabin "soles". It sounds like the sole has some problem.
Also, for other site members searching for relevant threads, it's a great help to use correct terminology in the title, even tho we can usually guess what is really being asked about.
Please do not be offended.... uniform descriptions help us to help you.
Good luck on finding a fix.
Click to expand
 
Last edited:
higgs

higgs

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Aug 24, 2005
3,712
Nassau 34 Olcott, NY
One possible solution is expanding foam like Great Stuff. My Irwin 32 (1973) simply had a glass cabin sole that was part of the molded interior. There was no wood to delaminate. If you go the foam route be careful not to put too much in as when the foam expands it could push the sole upwards. The comment about drainage was a valid one. My 32 had a spot aft of the mast on top of the cabin that flexed. No delamination as it was solid glass - just Irwin cutting corners as they often did. I sailed the boat all over Lake Michigan for a dozen years and never had a problem with that spot.
 
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Apex

Apex

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Jun 19, 2013
1,214
C&C 30 Elk Rapids
Plymouth Sailor said:
Dear Fellow Sailors:

Just bought a new to me Irwin 28, upgrading from a Hunter 25. I’m doing some refurbishing and found a part of the cabin floor to be a bit flexible. There is a slight tiny space underneath as a leading bilge to the main bilge (really unnecessary). Any suggestion how I fill that space in to stop the flex before I place a new floor layer on top?
Click to expand
Looks like an FRP floor, no teak & holly, no plywood: If you are putting flooring on anyway, you might be able to cut the top layer, look for delam of the core and repair with epoxy/new core/epoxy/old FRP patch. Your "sole" is likely a sandwich of glass and plywood. The soft spot COULD be delamination. If not, then use the access to build either pillars under (keeping drainage in mind) or build a bridged patch, tying into the solid floor. Since you are putting new flooring on top, the repair doesn't have to be pretty, only faired. Good luck!
 
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