Good to know. I was not finding anything recent on PS.
Too bad, they usually have good write-ups.
flax packing or dripless
- Thread starter Justin_NSA
- Start date
Too bad, they usually have good write-ups.
Started my PSS project this weekend while the temps were up. We're back down to 8 degrees this morning. The plastic stuffing box and hose slid back easy enough. The coupling bolts seemed to turn too easy. They bolt to an orange, rubbery "donut" which has separate studs that attach to the output flange. I assume it's for reducing vibration. I wonder if I should use some threadlock on the coupling bolts when i reinstall them. The locking screws were no problem.
I haven't gotten the coupling off of the shaft yet. I read that this is the hardest part of the job. I'm letting some PB Blaster work on it until I can resume the job. I think I will come back with a heat gun. A torch seems a bit dicey in there.
I found the 1 5/8" / 1" PSS at Wholesale Marine for $236. I'm waiting to see if any discounts show up in my mailbox. The locking collar is $20 plus shipping from PYI. It can go on anytime since it is split.
I haven't gotten the coupling off of the shaft yet. I read that this is the hardest part of the job. I'm letting some PB Blaster work on it until I can resume the job. I think I will come back with a heat gun. A torch seems a bit dicey in there.
I found the 1 5/8" / 1" PSS at Wholesale Marine for $236. I'm waiting to see if any discounts show up in my mailbox. The locking collar is $20 plus shipping from PYI. It can go on anytime since it is split.
I won't hurt if you use the BLUE thread lock. That is easy breakout later.
I think Shaft/Engine alignment is the key to longevity.
Jim...
PS: The recommended Bellow compression is the sealing force.
Thanks Jim! Yeah, definitely not the red stuff. I've been reading and watching the installation instructions carefully on installing and adjusting the PSS. Not hard, but must be done. I'd hate to sink my own boat
When adding the PSS the coupling was the hardest and used Mainsail info to greatly help but it was very hard getting the coupling from the shaft off.
I did use a small touch like the a small tank and torch tip screws onto the small hand tank and than even used a hammer and than it did come off with out any damage and it’s been on for around 8 years and spray some anticorrison keep rust away and the vent hose goes high up into a bike bottle.
Been working fine.
Every few years I put very fine sand paper in between the stainless collar and the none metal collar to keep nice clean surface and was recommended by PSS.
Nick
I did use a small touch like the a small tank and torch tip screws onto the small hand tank and than even used a hammer and than it did come off with out any damage and it’s been on for around 8 years and spray some anticorrison keep rust away and the vent hose goes high up into a bike bottle.
Been working fine.
Every few years I put very fine sand paper in between the stainless collar and the none metal collar to keep nice clean surface and was recommended by PSS.
Nick
Made great progress today! Our club property manager, bless his heart, had a homemade tool to pull the coupler off the shaft. I don't see how I could have done it without it. Now I just need to polish up the shaft and install a new PSS shaft seal.
Does anyone use the Lasdrop shaft seal? I was rereading the Practical Sailor review on seals and it came down to the PYI and the Lasdrop. I tend to agree with PS, an off-the-shaft seal design like the Lasdrop makes more sense than the o-ring shaft seal of the PSS. The Lasdrop doesn't use set screws on the shaft either. Anyone have the Lasdrop Gen II?
Just saw the comment by Sanfelice about a washer in the stuffing box between the flax and the compression nut. Is this washer common to all bronze seals? I just took mine apart to re-pack and found no washer in there. Raised a red flag when I read of this, as I have never re-packed one before and have no way to know if washer is correct though is sounds logical.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 21,243
@BwWhisper
Here is a good link to help you with the stuffing box.
https://marinehowto.com/re-packing-a-traditional-stuffing-box/
I do not have a washer in mine. The flax seats against the top of the nut to provide a seal. Not really sure, short of disassembling the shaft from the transmission how you would install a washer. Further the washer would give you metal on metal and there would be a leak.
Here is a good link to help you with the stuffing box.
https://marinehowto.com/re-packing-a-traditional-stuffing-box/
I do not have a washer in mine. The flax seats against the top of the nut to provide a seal. Not really sure, short of disassembling the shaft from the transmission how you would install a washer. Further the washer would give you metal on metal and there would be a leak.
The washer is common to the plastic stuffing box used by Hunter. I just helped a friend that has a Hunter 285. It actually had a plastic washer that divides two rings of flax. It also has a metal washer that sits in the aft end of the box.
My boat has the more common metal stuffing box. No washers in mine.
My boat has the more common metal stuffing box. No washers in mine.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 21,243
I can understand the logic of that. The washer would be pushing against the flax which is seated inside the large nut. If the nut is plastic material they may need the washer to provide even pressure against the flax.
My stuffing box is bronze, all metal.
If you open the unit and do not find a washer, most likely there is not supposed to be one.
But sometimes Murphy appears on boats as previous owners.