flax packing or dripless

[Justin_NSA]

I've about decided to stick with a stuffing box but I don't like my plastic version and I think I should replace the hose. So I'm almost resolved to disconnect the coupler so I can slide everything off and slide a new bronze Buck Algonquin packing box on.

 

[kmacdonald]

The nylon stuffing boxes are fine. It should have a cotter pin connecting the outer nut to the inner to keep it from backing off. There should be holes for that purpose. Bertram used those nylon stuffing boxes in their sportfishing boats that were considered very good boats.

 

[kmacdonald]

Here is a picture of one with the cotter pin:

 

[Justin_NSA]

I'll bet they intend for those two nuts to be safety-wired together not pinned. What is the likelihood that holes would line up for a cotter pin when the nut is adjusted correctly? Mine has neither which is another concern

 

[JamesG161]

I dread the day the bellows needs to be replaced

The boat must be out of the water, unless you can get some way to block the shaft tube while in the water.
Current versions [mine] of the Bellow, by PYI, have a 10 year replacement recommendation.

How long before you need to replace your ...
1) Cutlass Bearing
2) Engine Mounts
3) Replace the Carbon Face on the Seal
4) Need a shaft alignment?

Jim...

PS: Doesn't a full packing gland replacement need to be done, out of the water?

 

[Gary Ballentine]

Had a traditional stuffing box on my last boat, that was replaced with a dripless. It was and I-36 Islander, and the stuffing box was hard to get to and adjust. Replaced with a dripless, that was wonderful on that boat. On my Hunter 40.5 I also have a traditional stuffing box. The difference is, it could not be easier to get to, and adjust if needed. Both work, what's the best fit for the boat, and your ability to access is what I would think is important...

 

[Pizzazz]

I use a PSS on my H31 and I have been very happy with it. I replaced the bellow about two years ago when I needed to service the shaft. It was very easy about two hours of work. The carbon disk is supposed to last 25,000 - 30,000 hours according to technical support. They said they see those disks replaced on commercial boats sometimes but they have never seen one wear out on a recreational boat.

 

[njlarry]

The boat must be out of the water, unless you can get some way to block the shaft tube while in the water.
Current versions [mine] of the Bellow, by PYI, have a 10 year replacement recommendation.

How long before you need to replace your ...
1) Cutlass Bearing
2) Engine Mounts
3) Replace the Carbon Face on the Seal
4) Need a shaft alignment?

Jim...

PS: Doesn't a full packing gland replacement need to be done, out of the water?

I quess I was not clear enough. Your points are true up to a point. But a rusted on coupling is not going to come off a ten year old machined fit easily. I expect that the shaft will need to be cut in two and a new shaft and machine fitted coupling used. That is why I dread the day I replace the bellows which is only about five years away. I am otherwise happy with the pyi. I just wish they made a replacement bellows that fit over existing couplings. Both systems are good. Your boat your choice.

 

[Rick D]

I quess I was not clear enough. Your points are true up to a point. But a rusted on coupling is not going to come off a ten year old machined fit easily. I expect that the shaft will need to be cut in two and a new shaft and machine fitted coupling used. That is why I dread the day I replace the bellows which is only about five years away. I am otherwise happy with the pyi. I just wish they made a replacement bellows that fit over existing couplings. Your boat your choice.

FWIW, I have replaced my bellows twice in 2000 engine hours. In both cases, the coupler was reused. However, I did not DYI. Next time, I will have a split coupler installed.

 

[njlarry]

Thank you Rick, something for me to look forward to.
( I can quote you right?)

 

[NYSail]

Jim has a point BUT..while the pyi will not wear the shaft the bellows that it uses will need to be replaced and when it does the entire shaft and coupling will likley have to be replaced. My boat came with a pyi that has functioned flawlessly but I dread the day the bellows needs to be replaced. Wish they would design a seamed replacement bellows as by time a replacement is needed the shaft and coupling will be rusted together. For the benefit of a dry bilge I will have to pay for new shaft, coupling, machining and yard work. I quess the grass is always greener.....

If you dont want the coupling and shaft to rust together then coat them with a Teflon grease prior to assembly. A little protection will prevent them from fusing together. I had to cut the coupling off when I first bought my P36-2 because of rust, however after replacing the coupling I coated every part prior to assembly and was able to easily remove the coupling and shaft whenever I wished with ease over my 10 years of owning the boat. I also kept the bilge clean and dry so water wasn't sloshing around constantly.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Thanks NY. The records from the PO said they replaced the cutlass bearing so I'm expecting my coupling to come off without much hassle. It will go back with some prevention. The POs were fastidious about keeping the bilges clean and dry.
Still on the fence about keeping the plastic box, going to bronze or dripless.

 

[Justin_NSA]

After your comments and doing more outside reading, I am going dripless. I would be replacing the hose and the plastic box with bronze if I stayed with a stuffing setup so for the money and effort I may as well go dripless. I will probably replace the old flange with a split version. I noticed that PYI is now selling clamp collars that Mainsail recommends.

 

[Rick D]

After your comments and doing more outside reading, I am going dripless. I would be replacing the hose and the plastic box with bronze if I stayed with a stuffing setup so for the money and effort I may as well go dripless. I will probably replace the old flange with a split version. I noticed that PYI is now selling clamp collars that Mainsail recommends.

I didn't weigh in on this. I did the same on my 32 Hunter Vision. The plastic stuffing box worried me (even if unnecessarily) and I replaced it with a bronze unit. A year later, with leaking no-drip packing, I installed a PSS and never looked back.

 

[JamesG161]

PYI is now selling clamp collars that Mainsail recommends.

I ordered one. The collar keeps the shaft and prop on board, if coupling fails, which is the primary purpose.
It also backs up the bellow's compression setting.
Jim...

 

[py26129]

I also have one of the collars on order. It will be installed with the seal, this spring. I saw it as cheap insurance

Matt

 

[Rick D]

Marine mechanics have a bad habit of not replacing the collar set screws with new and not stacking one on top of another. There is a reason for those instructions. I once had the collar slide forward after a bellows replacement and, yup, only one reused set screw. After that, I put a hose clamp temporarily until my back up collar arrived and installed.

 

[JRacer]

Justin. Article in the most recent Practical Sailor detailing the change to a dripless. FYI

 

[Justin_NSA]

Justin. Article in the most recent Practical Sailor detailing the change to a dripless. FYI

Thanks Schoen. BoatUS had one in the last issue too. Not as thorough as PS though. These editors must follow this forum.

 

[JRacer]

Thanks Schoen. BoatUS had one in the last issue too. Not as thorough as PS though. These editors must follow this forum.

Oops, I think I lied! I think it was Boat US - reading both last night, might have that confused.