flax packing or dripless

Jul 7, 2004
8,402
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Another stuffing box thread appeared and got me thinking about my system. I have no idea when the last time my stuffing box was packed, and I'm not impressed with the plastic coupling nut(s) on the Hunter. What I do know is boats have sunk here if this isn't maintained. I'm 62 and I'm focused on low maintenance so we can sail and enjoy ourselves. We only run the engine long enough to get out of a small cove and back again.
I've read mainsail's How-to's on both options below. Does either have advantages that far outweigh the other? I'll spend the money on the dripless if it's a better long-term solution.

Re-Packing A Traditional Stuffing Box

Installing A PSS Shaft Seal
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,741
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Does either have advantages that far outweigh the other?
Our 1991 P42 came with the standard bronze stuffing box. When the boat was on the hard for purchase survey in 2002, I replaced the packing material, which looked original. Replaced again in 2011, but with the PTFE version. Plan to replace again this spring when I redo the bottom paint. Low cost and dependable, and I plan on staying simple.

Those that have switched to dripless seem to like how they perform, but like my original 40 pound Danforth anchor, as long as it does the job and I'm happy with the result, no reason to spend the extra money for the latest version. Just call me Mr. Minimalist, eh?
 
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Jul 7, 2004
8,402
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Thanks Terry. I don't know why, well yes I do, Hunter used plastic instead of bronze. If there was a reasonable concern not to stick with the OEM hardware I'd still have to pull the shaft.
 

pateco

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Aug 12, 2014
2,207
Hunter 31 (1983) Pompano Beach FL
I repacked my bronze one 2 years ago. If it ain't broke don't fix it. More boat bucks for other projects.

I used regular flax as I had heard stories of the PTFE causing shaft erosion.
 
Oct 25, 2011
576
Island Packet IP31 Lake St. Louis, Montreal
I am switching to a PYI dripless this winter.

The reasons are as follows: Visual access to my stuffing box is great, but accessing it to adjust it is a nightmare, requiring a head first dive down into the compartment (at a 45 deg angle) Once arrived at the bottom, one arm is required for bracing (to avoid continuing down into the bilge), leaving just the other arm to work on the stuffing box. :banghead: Also our previous boat had a PYI seal and it performed flawlessly for 12 years.

For me, between having a dry bilge and no need to adjust, it was an easy decision.

Matt
 
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Feb 26, 2004
22,782
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
I'm 62 and I'm focused on low maintenance
Justin,

I'm 72 and I'm focused on preventative maintenance that keeps my boat working properly, regardless of how much work is required.

The link you provided to Maine Sail's site is to the main page, not any specific packing options.

As you know as a frequent contributor to this site, there are a few options. NO packing material for a standard stuffing box is actually completely dripless, 'cuz we've all been saying that for years. Inherently, they ALL must drip, some less than others.

I've posted this many times, includes a link to Maine Sail's discussions, too:

http://c34.org/wikiwp/?rdp_we_resource=http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing

The choices are: (year 2000 prices)

  1. Conventional flax @ $4.29 for a two foot length
  2. PTFE flax @ $4.19
  3. The “Drip-Less Moldable” packing kit (what Hayden mentions)
  4. The Goretex GFO from e-marine
  5. Ultra X new in 2012 or so
Your boat, your choice. :)

I have used them all, currently #5.

Your plastic box is something else, and only you an determine whether or not you feel it is insufficient for your peace of mind, and if you want to change the SYSTEM from a traditional stuffing box to the other really dripless PSS system.
 
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Jul 7, 2004
8,402
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Thanks Stu for the advice. That's exactly where I am, just not sure which direction to take from here. I intentionally posted the top link to Main's how to site because the stuffing box and dripless instructions are separate links from there.
 
Feb 10, 2004
3,946
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
Traditional stuffing for me. I have a bronze stuffing box on my 1997 h40.5. I repack every 5 years or if the drips can't be set correctly. I will not change to the PSS system primarily because I refuse to deal with the removal of the shaft coupler and all of the potential disastrous problems that entails. Additionally, a dry bilge is not important to me. I get water in my bilge from primarily two sources. First, when I remove the speed transducer, I let in a quart or two of seawater. Second, the refrigerator and freezer drain goes to the bilge. I can't stop either of those two sources easily, so a totally dry bilge is out of the question.
And lastly, if I have anything that goes wrong with the shaft packing seal, for less than 10 bucks I can easily fix it, even in the water.
 
Jul 12, 2011
1,165
Leopard 40 Jupiter, Florida
I chose to replace my traditional stuffing box with a PYI dripless last winter for about $2K. I'm not certain it was worth it, but here was my reasoning - I was having other work done and they were already pulling the shaft. I wanted a feathering prop (MaxProp), and the manufacturer recommended replacing the bronze shaft with stainless, which meant pulling the rudder. Anyhow, I figured if I had to do it all, I might as well get the dripless.
 
Jan 21, 2009
256
Catalina 30 Lake Perry, KS
IMO, your stuffing box is fine and I wouldn't replace it. Especially in a fresh water lake. I would check the piece of hose for softness or cracks. When you back out the nut, be aware of a nylon washer which compresses against the stuffing material. The washer tends to get in the way while your working on the box. It is a pain to get out the first time. I simply cut mine and removed the washer from the shaft until it was time to tighten the nut when I put it back on. If you use one of the more modern packings it will last a long time with minimum dripping. If you keep your boat in the water over the winter, just tighten the packing until it stops dripping. Readjust in the Spring .
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,402
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
IMO, your stuffing box is fine and I wouldn't replace it. Especially in a fresh water lake. When you back out the nut, be aware of a nylon washer which compresses against the stuffing material. The washer tends to get in the way while your working on the box. It is a pain to get out the first time. I simply cut mine and removed the washer from the shaft until it was time to tighten the nut, I put it back on. If you use one of the more modern packings it will last a long time with minimum dripping. If you keep your boat in the water over the winter, just tighten the packing until it stops dripping. Readjust in the Spring .
Do Catalinas use plastic also? Mine is pretty dry, I just don't know if a failure will be catastrophic or if I will get warning signs. I check the bilge area each time we go out. have to open the seacock nearby.
 
Jan 21, 2009
256
Catalina 30 Lake Perry, KS
No Catalina used a bronze box. I used to have a Hunter 28.5 , which had the nylon box, so I am familiar with them. Getting the large flat washer out is the hardest part, because it is pressed hard against the flax. Remember that to put in a "dripless" system you will have to remove the shaft back from the tranny and perhaps out all together, to get the new system on, depending on clearance. For me, just too much expense and work to justify changing.
 

NYSail

.
Jan 6, 2006
3,064
Beneteau 423 Mt. Sinai, NY
I was happy with the traditional stuffing box on last boat. Also minimal drips using Teflon packing. Shaft shop sold the dripless but told me not to bother..... he was a more traditionalist and didn’t like the potential leaking of pss seal.... but others I hear love them. My new boat as a Volvo dripless seal and I love it. No bellows and works like a charm so far with no drips what so ever.
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,402
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Still researching this. I found an older thread with someone else who owned a Hunter with the plastic stuffing box nuts. Sounds like they go bad.
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...placing-the-flax-packing-in-the-water.100257/

At a minimum I think I'll feel better if I replace it with a bronze one. Main's article says to me it's time to replace the hose too. I don't know how old are what material mine is. If all that the dripless kit does is just that, I'll save my money even though I'm nearly there if I plan to replace hose and box. :doh:
 
Feb 14, 2014
7,433
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
The only way to really seal and not wear the shaft is PYI.

I got lucky when I got my boat and the PO's had to pay to replace the shaft, prop, and cutlass.
So I got mine put on for <$400.;):)
Jim...
 
Sep 23, 2009
1,475
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
Jim has a point BUT..while the pyi will not wear the shaft the bellows that it uses will need to be replaced and when it does the entire shaft and coupling will likley have to be replaced. My boat came with a pyi that has functioned flawlessly but I dread the day the bellows needs to be replaced. Wish they would design a seamed replacement bellows as by time a replacement is needed the shaft and coupling will be rusted together. For the benefit of a dry bilge I will have to pay for new shaft, coupling, machining and yard work. I quess the grass is always greener.....