I'm having a problem with my knotmetet -- it always reads zero! The boat had been hauled out for survey when I purchased it - and it didn't work after that. I have a plug to replace the transducer/paddlewheel, and see what needs to be swapped out, but have never done it. How difficult is this to do with the boat in the water?
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Knotmeter
Easy to pull out while in the water. We have to do this pretty regularly. If the boat sits more than a few weeks we get bugs in the wheel. Once underway, I just go below, pop it out, put the plug in, spin it a few times to clear the bugs and pop it back in. You will get a little water, but probably not more than a pint. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Easy to pull out while in the water. We have to do this pretty regularly. If the boat sits more than a few weeks we get bugs in the wheel. Once underway, I just go below, pop it out, put the plug in, spin it a few times to clear the bugs and pop it back in. You will get a little water, but probably not more than a pint. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
After Haulout?
You said that it stopped working after the haulout. What may have happen is that the straps used to lift the boat may have rested on the paddlewheel and the weight of the boat has bent the shaft axle. When you pull the paddlewheel out, be sure to check that, if is isn't growth contributing to it not working. If the axle is bent, you will have to chase down tha mfg and buy a replacement. That's what happened to me.
You said that it stopped working after the haulout. What may have happen is that the straps used to lift the boat may have rested on the paddlewheel and the weight of the boat has bent the shaft axle. When you pull the paddlewheel out, be sure to check that, if is isn't growth contributing to it not working. If the axle is bent, you will have to chase down tha mfg and buy a replacement. That's what happened to me.
I think I know what's going on
The main point I read in your description is that you have all zeros showing. If you had dashes, then you could surmize the sensor is damaged. The zeros indicate that you're not getting a reading. My procedure is to remove our Ray Marine sensor every time I finish using the boat. If not, as has been mentioned, growth will find its way on to the wheel. What I think might have happened is that the sensor was put back in place with the wheel not fully aligned from bow to stern. If it is off, the wheel won't rotate properly. The top of the sensor has a little arrow on it which needs to point forward. It may be that the sling damaged it. It has been my experience that the yard guys will make sure you have removed your knot sensor before rigging the lifting sling. You asked how difficult it is to remove. Not at all so long as you work quickly and have the blank plug handy. There is a flap that goes into place once you remove the sensor. It stems the water flow so you can make the change. You will, however, need to keep an eye on water building up in the bilge from this procedure because the flapper doesn't totally prevent a flow into the boat. Also, I bought a new sensor from the manufacturer and changed out my old one. My readout had all dashes from some mysterious ailment. It cost $70. I butt spliced it into the existing line that runs back toward the cockpit wheel pedestle. I realize the butt splice option is not the best, but our boat makes it nearly impossible to pull the Sea Talk cable through the wiring conduits. The change-out went well making sure you are very careful with the splices and sealing them (I think there were 5 wires). John Richard s/v Jack's Place
The main point I read in your description is that you have all zeros showing. If you had dashes, then you could surmize the sensor is damaged. The zeros indicate that you're not getting a reading. My procedure is to remove our Ray Marine sensor every time I finish using the boat. If not, as has been mentioned, growth will find its way on to the wheel. What I think might have happened is that the sensor was put back in place with the wheel not fully aligned from bow to stern. If it is off, the wheel won't rotate properly. The top of the sensor has a little arrow on it which needs to point forward. It may be that the sling damaged it. It has been my experience that the yard guys will make sure you have removed your knot sensor before rigging the lifting sling. You asked how difficult it is to remove. Not at all so long as you work quickly and have the blank plug handy. There is a flap that goes into place once you remove the sensor. It stems the water flow so you can make the change. You will, however, need to keep an eye on water building up in the bilge from this procedure because the flapper doesn't totally prevent a flow into the boat. Also, I bought a new sensor from the manufacturer and changed out my old one. My readout had all dashes from some mysterious ailment. It cost $70. I butt spliced it into the existing line that runs back toward the cockpit wheel pedestle. I realize the butt splice option is not the best, but our boat makes it nearly impossible to pull the Sea Talk cable through the wiring conduits. The change-out went well making sure you are very careful with the splices and sealing them (I think there were 5 wires). John Richard s/v Jack's Place
Knotmeter Changeout
The same thing happened to me during my survey. Replacement is easy as described in earlier replies. You can source new paddlewheels at most marine supply stores. Make sure the slots on the housing and insert line up correctly. I now remove the knotlog assembly every time the boat is hauled since the haul straps seem to want to find the paddlewheel every time!
The same thing happened to me during my survey. Replacement is easy as described in earlier replies. You can source new paddlewheels at most marine supply stores. Make sure the slots on the housing and insert line up correctly. I now remove the knotlog assembly every time the boat is hauled since the haul straps seem to want to find the paddlewheel every time!
Knotmeters.....
If your unit is reading "00.0", the problem is usually with the sensor or its connections. If your boat is out of the water, connect your battery and main power switch, turn on the unit, and then have someone spin the paddlewheel to see if you get a positive reading. As others stated, you may have an alignment problem or the shaft of the paddlewheel may not be true any longer. They are easy fixes. If this doesn't fix the problem, you may need to replace the sensor, assuming you no problems with the connections (which like anything on your boat, can come loose or become corroded, etc.). Pulling and cleaning the paddlewheel while in the water may be easy, or really scary, depending on where it is on your boat and how easy or not it is to access. On my previous boat, an oldish C&C, I had to crawl under the cockpit and it was very awkward and difficult. Once you pull the sensor out of its thru-hull, you basically have a hose spurting water up into your face and boat....be prepared. Have a sponge and a small pail ready. But in the end, the thing to do is practice getting the sensor out, and the plug in, while you are on the hard. Once you get the rythym down, it becomes easy. You should be able to do this without letting but a pint of water into your boat.
If your unit is reading "00.0", the problem is usually with the sensor or its connections. If your boat is out of the water, connect your battery and main power switch, turn on the unit, and then have someone spin the paddlewheel to see if you get a positive reading. As others stated, you may have an alignment problem or the shaft of the paddlewheel may not be true any longer. They are easy fixes. If this doesn't fix the problem, you may need to replace the sensor, assuming you no problems with the connections (which like anything on your boat, can come loose or become corroded, etc.). Pulling and cleaning the paddlewheel while in the water may be easy, or really scary, depending on where it is on your boat and how easy or not it is to access. On my previous boat, an oldish C&C, I had to crawl under the cockpit and it was very awkward and difficult. Once you pull the sensor out of its thru-hull, you basically have a hose spurting water up into your face and boat....be prepared. Have a sponge and a small pail ready. But in the end, the thing to do is practice getting the sensor out, and the plug in, while you are on the hard. Once you get the rythym down, it becomes easy. You should be able to do this without letting but a pint of water into your boat.
Knotmeter Problem
kmessner, Warren has got you covered on the technical issues. If you have a lot of water critters in your area, get used to removing the knotmeter when at the dock. Chances are you will need only to clean and inspect the paddle wheel. One broken cup or a bent pin and you are dead. Personally, ours has been removed and plugged. I am more interested in SOG so, I simply rely on GPS info. The only real disadvantage is that you will not have true wind info. Personally, I find it easy to estimate true wind based on other more intuitive factors. Good luck! Jon McClain
kmessner, Warren has got you covered on the technical issues. If you have a lot of water critters in your area, get used to removing the knotmeter when at the dock. Chances are you will need only to clean and inspect the paddle wheel. One broken cup or a bent pin and you are dead. Personally, ours has been removed and plugged. I am more interested in SOG so, I simply rely on GPS info. The only real disadvantage is that you will not have true wind info. Personally, I find it easy to estimate true wind based on other more intuitive factors. Good luck! Jon McClain
Thanks for all the responses!
I'll pull the paddlewheel out tomorrow and check it out. Thanks for all the advice!
I'll pull the paddlewheel out tomorrow and check it out. Thanks for all the advice!
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