Fixed Portlight Replacement

[Steverhnm]

OK, so I call them windows, but yes, technically they are fixed portlights. I am talking about two windows. I have read about the replacement process on the forum, I am OK with that. However, I can't take my portlights out and have them copied, as the boat is in Mexico and it will be a couple months before I get back.

I made some patterns of the portlights, but what I can't get is the thickness or a suggestion on the type of material to use. Also, what is the best sealant to use?

Is there a source for the exact portlights? I can get them custom made here locally, but if someone is already making them I would rather do that.

Anybody have mechanical drawings of the portlights? There are two on each side and the appear to be identical.

Any extra hints or discussion on the "right way" to do this would be appreciated. Thanks in adavance.

 

[Scott]

Use acrylic. I tried lexan and it got glazed. Use the proper sealant for acrylic to fiberglass. I believe it is Dow 795.

 

[kloudie1]

Exactly, Scott.. Plexiglas or acrylic sheet.. tinted if ya want and can have a scratch resistant coating.. Probably 3/16" or 1/4" thick is great.. I'd use 1/4" for offshore.. You can use Lexan but if you do, make sure it has the UV resist built in. Acrylic is inherently UV resistant. Both will eventually craze but the acrylic will live a lot longer. The original companionway slider on my boat has lasted 30 years in the water full time.. it needs to be replaced today but it is only crazed and not cracked.

 

[Richard Bryer]

Take a look in the owner modifications section ( hunter 34) I documented the removal and restoration of mine a few years ago. I had metal frames and re-used them.

 

[Steverhnm]

So I an still looking for info on what people have ACTUALLY used for thickness on the windows, not suggestions, as I would like to know the depth of the inset. My fixed portlights do not have frames, which is a little disconcerting. I wouldn't mind putting a frame around the outside if one was available but is would appear I would have to by the extrusion and bend it myself, which would not turn out as nice as something done professionally. Is it possible to screw them onto the frame they are installed in? That would be an acceptable alternative to me.

 

[Rick D]

So I an still looking for info on what people have ACTUALLY used for thickness on the windows, not suggestions, as I would like to know the depth of the inset. My fixed portlights do not have frames, which is a little disconcerting. I wouldn't mind putting a frame around the outside if one was available but is would appear I would have to by the extrusion and bend it myself, which would not turn out as nice as something done professionally. Is it possible to screw them onto the frame they are installed in? That would be an acceptable alternative to me.

I had the fixed ports and opening ports replaced about eight years ago by a professional who does it for a living. I don't know the thickness, but it was slightly thicker than stock. There is no reason including offshore for doing a frame. The Dow 795 is used to bond large windows in skyscrapers so I think you can take solace in that. Also, it's used for bonding vehicle windshields in which the bond get lots of torque and impact. Hunter had a piece long ago about the impact resistance and strength of the acrylic vs. the fiberglass and it was impressive. What you do not want to do is use mechanical fasteners. hey are used for installation only and are removed after curing. To use mechanical fasteners is to put a lot of stress on the acrylic and will result in cracking. The acrylic needs to expand and contract at a different rate than the fiberglass. Is the boat on the hard in San Carlos over the summer? That would seem to be a good time to R&R them. One thing my installer was careful to spec was USA-sourced acrylic. He felt there was inadequate quality control on imported product. Also, the side ports on mine were NOT the same measure. And, he did rent an oven to mold the windshield. Good luck.

 

[Steverhnm]

Hey Rick, thanks for the detailed information. I made a pattern of each fixed portlight and they were identical on each side. I am concerned about any curve on the window. I don't really see one on the sides so I am hoping they go in flat. Not sure I want to put holes in the fiberglass to install the window. I might try suction cups from the inside of the window to draw it snug on the frame. I am in the process of getting a quote for custom fabrication. Sure would be nice if they were pre-made somewhere....

 

[Lander]

I replaced the 4 long fixed portlights on my 1993 Hunter 375 with 1/4" thick plexiglass. Getting the old ones out was (alarmingly) easy... after removing the interor trim, push hard from the inside.

On the 375 they are not screwed or mechanically held in place. They are glued, and moreover, need to bend around the curve of the cabin top. To solve this, I used 1/4" thick by 1/2" wide butly placed around the inside of the opening, then, using a chaulk gun with several tubes of black Dow Corning (5700?) filled the perimeter of opening to the outside of the butyl tape generously with goo, until I was sure there would be no air pockets or voids and it would ooze out when the plexi is pressed on.

The purpose of the butly tape was to hold the plexi an even distance off the opening "jamb" while the plexi is pushed and bent around the curve of the cabin top, and once positioned there, to keep it from popping up on the ends. The tape will also keep the 5700 from oozing out on the inside and the butly tape is chemically compatable with the Dow Corning (5700?), something you need to keep a close eye on when using modern products. The squeeze out is pressed in and molding with your fingers to form an even bead, using paint thinner as (little as) necessary to achieve a clean finish. It was a messy project, can't say enough about masking and prep. It has held up wonderfully, looks fantastic and does not leak!

 

[artboas]

I replaced the 4 long fixed portlights on my 1993 Hunter 375 with 1/4" thick plexiglass. Getting the old ones out was (alarmingly) easy... after removing the interor trim, push hard from the inside.

On the 375 they are not screwed or mechanically held in place. They are glued, and moreover, need to bend around the curve of the cabin top. To solve this, I used 1/4" thick by 1/2" wide butly placed around the inside of the opening, then, using a chaulk gun with several tubes of black Dow Corning (5700?) filled the perimeter of opening to the outside of the butyl tape generously with goo, until I was sure there would be no air pockets or voids and it would ooze out when the plexi is pressed on.

The purpose of the butly tape was to hold the plexi an even distance off the opening "jamb" while the plexi is pushed and bent around the curve of the cabin top, and once positioned there, to keep it from popping up on the ends. The tape will also keep the 5700 from oozing out on the inside and the butly tape is chemically compatable with the Dow Corning (5700?), something you need to keep a close eye on when using modern products. The squeeze out is pressed in and molding with your fingers to form an even bead, using paint thinner as (little as) necessary to achieve a clean finish. It was a messy project, can't say enough about masking and prep. It has held up wonderfully, looks fantastic and does not leak!

Done this... Here are some tips

I assume when you are saying "portlights", you are referring to the flat plastic panels.
Getting them out is easy, as I reported in an earlier post.
As far as putting new ones in, you have 2 choices: fasteners or no fasteners.
What Hunter did on my 40.5 was use corner screws, and then filled the holes with 795 once the sealant was totally set.
It takes a long time for 795 to set up to enough strength to hold a curve on a plastic part.
If your parts are curved, there are 2 methods you can use:
Put in corner screws, and then seal holes afterwards as Hunter did.
The second way is to build a compression jig.
You will need to buy several dual glaziers suction cups, and make a tool out of them which has a center bridge, machine screws and nuts to apply pressure to the port.
Good quality dual glazier's cup tools will stay stuck on for awhile, so this will work.
They cost about 10 bucks apiece.
So, this will do the trick with no holes

 

[planoron]

Ok so here is what I did and its perfect after a year. 1st, the thickness on my 380 was 3/8" and had a mitered edge.

I replaced with 3/8" bronze plexiglass and used 1 of the existing windows as a template. Taped plastic over the opening during this process. You can cut your own out of a sheet. Use a plywood blade in skillsaw and then work the corners with a jigsaw and finish with a beltsander to cut the bevels and finish the edges. OR have a glass shop fab them for you. Without a good table and the right tools that will be your best bet.
While they are being fabbed you get the joy propping the opening. You need to remove all traces of the previous sealant and even give a light sanding where the glass will laying. No oil residue or anything.
You will need 3M 90mil VHB tape, Dow 795 black sealant, hot glue gun, make some wooden blocks, suction cup and a friend.
The first thing is to tape the bed and leave the paper on top so you can dry set the windows. Use the blocks to align and the glue to gelcoat. (no glue in the bedding joint). Clean the bedding area on the window one last time, pull the paper off the tape and set. Tap the blocks and they are out. Caulk with 795 and you are done. Will last decades. The tape hold the glass and the 795 is the sealant. 795 does not set like a glue because of its expansion properties. Is actually used to water seal the rubber gaskets around the windows in skyscrapers and commercial buildings.
Good luck

 

[Steverhnm]

Thanks, i just may take shot at making them. Have all the tools. Just need tome....

 

[Steverhnm]

Planoron, do you have any additional pictures of the process you could share? Thanks.

 

[planoron]

I am not sure but will look in some old pics. I am heading out tomorrow to the boat and will get you a couple of the completed look. I checked your model and it looks like you 2 small windows on each side. I think this will be easier than my 1 long one per side. Here is a pic of the starboard portlight removed. I had to get rid of all the old black silicone you see around the edges. There was a ton of it from previous beddings where they just shot a bunch down and pressed the glass in and then screwed. you cant get it too clean.

 

[jmo2012]

Hey Steve
I have a 1990 35.5 like you wanting to replace all the fixed ports and sure do wish there were patterns. Any help or tips you can pass on re this model that has no frames, please pass on.

 

[artboas]

Hey Steve
I have a 1990 35.5 like you wanting to replace all the fixed ports and sure do wish there were patterns. Any help or tips you can pass on re this model that has no frames, please pass on.

You have the pattern
It is your existing windows
Just use a router bit with a bearing , and it's perfect.
Cut them 1/4" oversize on a band saw, double side sticky tape the old window to the new one.
Run the router around with the pattern but, and it is perfect!

 

[Steverhnm]

sounds like that is what I will have to do. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.