This past weekend, I chose to repair a slow leak through the port side fixed portalite. I removed the 15 screws holding the outer plexi lens. As I began prying the lens off, I discovered what appeared to be a black gasket the size and shape of the entire lens. Due to the age of the boat, I cannot decide if this is just caulking or if there is an actual gasket part I need to source. It seems to me that simply applying a bead of sealant around the portalite opening and around the edge of the entire lens should be adequate for proper re-installation. I would appreciate your comments/suggestions if you have done this job.
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I don't this that this was original.
Doug: I am not sure that this setup on your 31 is original. Mark Plastics in Corona, CA makes a complete replacement. You can find their phone number in the archives.
Doug: I am not sure that this setup on your 31 is original. Mark Plastics in Corona, CA makes a complete replacement. You can find their phone number in the archives.
H31_83-87 Fixed portalite
Steve you are a "wealth" of info! I have not had to replace or reseal the fixed ports on my 87 (owned since 2000). I have printed many of your info answers and filed they away for my own archives and future reference. thanks bill
Steve you are a "wealth" of info! I have not had to replace or reseal the fixed ports on my 87 (owned since 2000). I have printed many of your info answers and filed they away for my own archives and future reference. thanks bill
Patrick...Steve
You did not mention putting a bead of sealant around the rectangular opening itself. Did you feel sealing the plexi was adequate? My concern is that, from the inside, the plexi would not fit tightly to the window opening thereby creating an unfinished look. I think the contact paper idea is excellent. Did you also mask the edge of the plexi? Steve, I put a call into Mark Plastics and left my contact info. No response as yet.
You did not mention putting a bead of sealant around the rectangular opening itself. Did you feel sealing the plexi was adequate? My concern is that, from the inside, the plexi would not fit tightly to the window opening thereby creating an unfinished look. I think the contact paper idea is excellent. Did you also mask the edge of the plexi? Steve, I put a call into Mark Plastics and left my contact info. No response as yet.
Douglas
The teak trim was installed first on the inside, flush with the outside of the boat, then masked with tape. Placed the black contact paper on the outside and spread the sealant on with a notch trowel making sure I got the sealant on the lip of the wood trim. Did the same thing on the inside as the outside after the sealant setup. Use a razor knife to cut the extra sealant that squeeze out on to the masking tape. If you look close at the inside pic you'll see a line of black sealant where the teak meets the plexiglass. I did not mask the plexiglass, after triming with the razor the sealant just piled off. Hope that answers your questions.
The teak trim was installed first on the inside, flush with the outside of the boat, then masked with tape. Placed the black contact paper on the outside and spread the sealant on with a notch trowel making sure I got the sealant on the lip of the wood trim. Did the same thing on the inside as the outside after the sealant setup. Use a razor knife to cut the extra sealant that squeeze out on to the masking tape. If you look close at the inside pic you'll see a line of black sealant where the teak meets the plexiglass. I did not mask the plexiglass, after triming with the razor the sealant just piled off. Hope that answers your questions.
Patrick...
I think I know what I need to do, now. When I removed the cracked plexi, I left the interior teak frame in place. It appears sealed into the opening and needs no R&R. All I want to do is replace the plexi. I will position the new plexi and trace its outline, remove the plexi and lay down the black contact paper on the outside as you suggested, mask along the plexi tracing and along the interior edge of the teak frame, bead around the outside edge of the opening as well as the perimeter edge of the new plexi, screw the new plexi into position and finish by removing the masking and trimming where needed. Think it's a plan?
I think I know what I need to do, now. When I removed the cracked plexi, I left the interior teak frame in place. It appears sealed into the opening and needs no R&R. All I want to do is replace the plexi. I will position the new plexi and trace its outline, remove the plexi and lay down the black contact paper on the outside as you suggested, mask along the plexi tracing and along the interior edge of the teak frame, bead around the outside edge of the opening as well as the perimeter edge of the new plexi, screw the new plexi into position and finish by removing the masking and trimming where needed. Think it's a plan?
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