Can anyone tell me how to remove the plastic fixed ports from the frame, after I remove them from the hull, also, what is the thickness of the plastic replacement?
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fix the fixed ports
I got this information from the Hunter 31-34 list, courtsey of Roger Mummah. I made some phone calls today to try to break the code on getting replacements for the fixed ports on a Hunter 31. Other Hunter models have similar ports so I thought this info might be helpful, especially for those of us who own the more mature boats. There are as far as I can tell, three parts to the port: The frame (aluminum or plastic), the Acrylic plastic stuff and the rubber gasket material. My ports (H31, 1983, hull #58) are approximately 7 1/2" high, bottom deminsion (one closest to the water) is approximately 44" and the top deminsion (one closest to the sky) is approximately 29". I am told the material is 1/4" Acrylic. I was helped by Joe Kerr (Customer Service & Warranty x3038) and Mike Thomas (Retail Sales x3015) at Hunter Marine (800)771-5556. Both are very helpful if they are asked resonable questions. Evidently the first ports for the boats had aluminum frames made by Go Industries. Go went! No longer available. Go was evidently bought buy, or replaced by Mark Plastics, 369 East Harrison St. #G, Corona, CA 91719. I spoke with Mark Heacox who is the Mark in Mark Plastics. He said Hunter switched to a plastic frames at some point and that is what he can supply. To get the windows, one needs to call Mark at (909)735-7705 to discuss measurements because he said no two boats are exactly alike. He can also talk about enlarging the size of the port. His ports are complete assemblies. As I said, they have plastic frames and they are $180 each plus packaging and shipping. He said if 3 or so people order at the same time he can offer a discount of 20%. So that's $360 + packaging and shipping. I called a local plastic company and they said the material (Acrylic - bronze or grey tint - 1/4" thick) 44" x 8" would cost $20 each, not counting any labor. Labor to cut the stuff must be quoted after they see the original piece. That means I pull the entire assembly, get the Acrylic piece out and take the whole pile of stuff to them. They don't install the Acrylic and they have no idea where to get the rubber gasket stuff. So we're talking $40 for two pieces of Acrylic that I may be able to cut and install myself. I called another shop that claims to be big in the marine business. They quoted me approximately $17 per window and $25 labor, for a total of $84. That still leaves me with the challenge of finding the rubber stuff and installing the Acrylic in the frame. $84 is still way better than $360 (unless perhaps if one uses "the new math"). Tasks still to be accomplished: 1. Talk to a real boat port repair guy. I lost his card, but will try to find him. Maybe he can tell me about the rubber. 2. Find out where to get the rubber stuff. Any body got any hints as to how to find it? One more thing? I think I remember seeing Hunter 31's, 34's and 40's that had/have the Acrylic fastened to the outside of the cabin. The Acrylic folks said this is much stronger because they use 1/2" material instead of 1/4" and additional strength is provided by the overlap of the Acrylic around the perimeter of the cabin opening. The Acrylic would have to be sealed and a pretty trim piece would have to be fabricated on the inside to hide the core between the inside and outside layers of fiberglass. Any ideas? Any information regarding replacing these ports would be appreciated by at least me, and I suspect others. Any help on the newer models that may or may not have the Acrylic screwed to the outside of the cabin would be appreciated - especially stuff like, has it really been done that way - how thick is the Acrylic, how is it mounted and sealed, and what is used to trim the inside of the port frame opening.
I got this information from the Hunter 31-34 list, courtsey of Roger Mummah. I made some phone calls today to try to break the code on getting replacements for the fixed ports on a Hunter 31. Other Hunter models have similar ports so I thought this info might be helpful, especially for those of us who own the more mature boats. There are as far as I can tell, three parts to the port: The frame (aluminum or plastic), the Acrylic plastic stuff and the rubber gasket material. My ports (H31, 1983, hull #58) are approximately 7 1/2" high, bottom deminsion (one closest to the water) is approximately 44" and the top deminsion (one closest to the sky) is approximately 29". I am told the material is 1/4" Acrylic. I was helped by Joe Kerr (Customer Service & Warranty x3038) and Mike Thomas (Retail Sales x3015) at Hunter Marine (800)771-5556. Both are very helpful if they are asked resonable questions. Evidently the first ports for the boats had aluminum frames made by Go Industries. Go went! No longer available. Go was evidently bought buy, or replaced by Mark Plastics, 369 East Harrison St. #G, Corona, CA 91719. I spoke with Mark Heacox who is the Mark in Mark Plastics. He said Hunter switched to a plastic frames at some point and that is what he can supply. To get the windows, one needs to call Mark at (909)735-7705 to discuss measurements because he said no two boats are exactly alike. He can also talk about enlarging the size of the port. His ports are complete assemblies. As I said, they have plastic frames and they are $180 each plus packaging and shipping. He said if 3 or so people order at the same time he can offer a discount of 20%. So that's $360 + packaging and shipping. I called a local plastic company and they said the material (Acrylic - bronze or grey tint - 1/4" thick) 44" x 8" would cost $20 each, not counting any labor. Labor to cut the stuff must be quoted after they see the original piece. That means I pull the entire assembly, get the Acrylic piece out and take the whole pile of stuff to them. They don't install the Acrylic and they have no idea where to get the rubber gasket stuff. So we're talking $40 for two pieces of Acrylic that I may be able to cut and install myself. I called another shop that claims to be big in the marine business. They quoted me approximately $17 per window and $25 labor, for a total of $84. That still leaves me with the challenge of finding the rubber stuff and installing the Acrylic in the frame. $84 is still way better than $360 (unless perhaps if one uses "the new math"). Tasks still to be accomplished: 1. Talk to a real boat port repair guy. I lost his card, but will try to find him. Maybe he can tell me about the rubber. 2. Find out where to get the rubber stuff. Any body got any hints as to how to find it? One more thing? I think I remember seeing Hunter 31's, 34's and 40's that had/have the Acrylic fastened to the outside of the cabin. The Acrylic folks said this is much stronger because they use 1/2" material instead of 1/4" and additional strength is provided by the overlap of the Acrylic around the perimeter of the cabin opening. The Acrylic would have to be sealed and a pretty trim piece would have to be fabricated on the inside to hide the core between the inside and outside layers of fiberglass. Any ideas? Any information regarding replacing these ports would be appreciated by at least me, and I suspect others. Any help on the newer models that may or may not have the Acrylic screwed to the outside of the cabin would be appreciated - especially stuff like, has it really been done that way - how thick is the Acrylic, how is it mounted and sealed, and what is used to trim the inside of the port frame opening.
Replace fixed with opening
Because the acrylic is cracking, I have been toying with the idea of replacing one (the aftermost) of the two fixed ports per side on my H-34 with an opening port. Replacing the forward port would also be neat if an opening port large enough could be found. Using quality ports this would cost $400-$600 or so each (aftermost only), but would provide much more air at anchor. Anybody else thinking along these lines? More and more opening port sizes seem to be available in bronze or SS. I see boats like the J-46 equipped with fairly large opening ports, so I think that an appropriate size must be available. I will be checking out the port manufacturers brochures at Annapolis this year to see what is available in a size that would fit and a style that would complememnt the rest of the boat.
Because the acrylic is cracking, I have been toying with the idea of replacing one (the aftermost) of the two fixed ports per side on my H-34 with an opening port. Replacing the forward port would also be neat if an opening port large enough could be found. Using quality ports this would cost $400-$600 or so each (aftermost only), but would provide much more air at anchor. Anybody else thinking along these lines? More and more opening port sizes seem to be available in bronze or SS. I see boats like the J-46 equipped with fairly large opening ports, so I think that an appropriate size must be available. I will be checking out the port manufacturers brochures at Annapolis this year to see what is available in a size that would fit and a style that would complememnt the rest of the boat.
Just finished all 4
Last weekend I finished the task of replacing all 4 of the fixed ports on our 83-H34. They look great. Once the photos are developed I will post an article for the site. For now here is a brief description of the work involved. I re-used the original aluminum frames. Had a plastics company in Atlanta cut 1/4in plastic (bronze tint) to approximate size and then trimmed using a jig saw and dremmel. While the frames were out I scraped out all the old calk and sanded and painted them. Over bored the screw holes on the outside of the cabin, sealed with epoxy and filled with marine-tex (white). I used a two part epoxy to seal the wood core in the frame. Also filled in some voids where the core had been damaged (after letting it air out for 2 weeks). Used DOW795-white to seal in the frames. Then installed the plastic using DOW795-black. Overall cost for plastic/paint/sandpaper/sealant/screws/etc was about $65. Labor and lost sailing time - about 3 weekends (with some help). Knowing that they wont leak or cave in when hit by a rouge wave - Priceless. Scott 83-H34 Island Hops PS. Tip for getting a good finish with sealants - Mask the area around the frame leaving a gap for the sealant. Apply the sealant and smooth down using your finger dipped in a soapy water solution. Don't use too much sealant, it's easier to add more during the smoothing process than it is to remove it. Once your satisfied with the finish, remove the tape and then smooth it down again to ensure the edge where the tape was is sealed.
Last weekend I finished the task of replacing all 4 of the fixed ports on our 83-H34. They look great. Once the photos are developed I will post an article for the site. For now here is a brief description of the work involved. I re-used the original aluminum frames. Had a plastics company in Atlanta cut 1/4in plastic (bronze tint) to approximate size and then trimmed using a jig saw and dremmel. While the frames were out I scraped out all the old calk and sanded and painted them. Over bored the screw holes on the outside of the cabin, sealed with epoxy and filled with marine-tex (white). I used a two part epoxy to seal the wood core in the frame. Also filled in some voids where the core had been damaged (after letting it air out for 2 weeks). Used DOW795-white to seal in the frames. Then installed the plastic using DOW795-black. Overall cost for plastic/paint/sandpaper/sealant/screws/etc was about $65. Labor and lost sailing time - about 3 weekends (with some help). Knowing that they wont leak or cave in when hit by a rouge wave - Priceless. Scott 83-H34 Island Hops PS. Tip for getting a good finish with sealants - Mask the area around the frame leaving a gap for the sealant. Apply the sealant and smooth down using your finger dipped in a soapy water solution. Don't use too much sealant, it's easier to add more during the smoothing process than it is to remove it. Once your satisfied with the finish, remove the tape and then smooth it down again to ensure the edge where the tape was is sealed.
Thanks
Thanks for the replies, Steve, I contacted Mark in CA, and have decided to replace all the fixed ports, I can do the 4 ports for about $250. and then forget them for a few years. Mark was very helpfull. I will advise on the results, then my next task, Fit new opening ports!
Thanks for the replies, Steve, I contacted Mark in CA, and have decided to replace all the fixed ports, I can do the 4 ports for about $250. and then forget them for a few years. Mark was very helpfull. I will advise on the results, then my next task, Fit new opening ports!
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