Okay, the time has come. I can’t ignore the progressively worsening leak at the starboard chain plate in my ’98 h310. I have searched the archives but no mention of anyone tackling this project on a late 90’s era Hunter. So, have any of you done this job on a 310, 320, 326, 340, etc. and what was involved. I can access the bolts via the forward galley storage cabinet but how do I remove it without removing the entire starboard rub rail? What caulk was used during manufacture (please don’t say 5200). What holds the rub rail on? Several years ago I mentioned to my dealer that I thought the chain plate was leaking and he groaned and urged me to check everything else before re-bedding the chain plate so this job can't be fun. I should have made him do the job then when it would have been covered by warranty….
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Contact Hunter!
Clayton: Contact Hunter Marine. They will give you the scoop on what product to use and how to do it. Who knows they may even have the dealer do it for you if you tell them the story.
Clayton: Contact Hunter Marine. They will give you the scoop on what product to use and how to do it. Who knows they may even have the dealer do it for you if you tell them the story.
R
Ralph Johnstone
I Posted Our Experience ..........................
.......... in rebedding both chain plates last year but the archives seem to have eaten the post. Rebedding is a miserable, but not impossible job. Be sure to do BOTH as there is almost no 5200 under the plates thereby insuring that if it doesn't leak now, it's going to leak in the very near future. The rub rail is first heated with a hair drier to soften it and then pried out with a couple of suitable oak wedges. The wood avoids cutting the rail. Once the rail is out of the way, remove the interior nuts and the plates can be removed. If the small amount of old 5200 will not release easily, heat the plate to about 200 deg. to soften the 5200. Clean the plates and their respective mating surfaces. The clean plates are then COMPLETELY bedded in 5200 (sorry to say)and the nuts tightened. Prior to this, I had masked the exterior outside of the chain plate area with wide masking tape and then paper as the mess is something else and 5200 smears are unforgiving. Be sure to make a good bead with the extra 5200 where the plate meets the hull. It's held for three years now and the beads are still tightly adhered to the plate and hull. Regards, s/v Island Hunter
.......... in rebedding both chain plates last year but the archives seem to have eaten the post. Rebedding is a miserable, but not impossible job. Be sure to do BOTH as there is almost no 5200 under the plates thereby insuring that if it doesn't leak now, it's going to leak in the very near future. The rub rail is first heated with a hair drier to soften it and then pried out with a couple of suitable oak wedges. The wood avoids cutting the rail. Once the rail is out of the way, remove the interior nuts and the plates can be removed. If the small amount of old 5200 will not release easily, heat the plate to about 200 deg. to soften the 5200. Clean the plates and their respective mating surfaces. The clean plates are then COMPLETELY bedded in 5200 (sorry to say)and the nuts tightened. Prior to this, I had masked the exterior outside of the chain plate area with wide masking tape and then paper as the mess is something else and 5200 smears are unforgiving. Be sure to make a good bead with the extra 5200 where the plate meets the hull. It's held for three years now and the beads are still tightly adhered to the plate and hull. Regards, s/v Island Hunter
C
Clayton Hintz
Ralph...
Thanks for the project overview. Is the rub rail held in place with any adhesive or just pressed in place and bolted at the bow? Also, is there any trick to getting it back in place properly?
Thanks for the project overview. Is the rub rail held in place with any adhesive or just pressed in place and bolted at the bow? Also, is there any trick to getting it back in place properly?
R
Ralph Johnstone
In Responce to Your Questions ...............
......... there wasn't any adhesive holding the rub rail in place just the pull from where it is mechanically attached at the bow. When the wedges are pulled out, it will slowly pull itself back into place with a little help. The internal cross section of the rail does have provision to grab the hull/deck flange. The key to success here is ....... patience in great abundance. Good luck on a grubby job. Mind you, there's always the feeling of accomplishment when it's finished. Regards, s/v Island Hunter
......... there wasn't any adhesive holding the rub rail in place just the pull from where it is mechanically attached at the bow. When the wedges are pulled out, it will slowly pull itself back into place with a little help. The internal cross section of the rail does have provision to grab the hull/deck flange. The key to success here is ....... patience in great abundance. Good luck on a grubby job. Mind you, there's always the feeling of accomplishment when it's finished. Regards, s/v Island Hunter
C
Clayton Hintz
I'd contact Hunter anyway.
Clayton: Based on Ralphs post, I'd be more inclined to contact Hunter and get their take on this issue. Maybe 5200 is a poor choice for this type of process and they may have changed their procedure. I would think that a caulking that is very plyable would be the best bet here.
Clayton: Based on Ralphs post, I'd be more inclined to contact Hunter and get their take on this issue. Maybe 5200 is a poor choice for this type of process and they may have changed their procedure. I would think that a caulking that is very plyable would be the best bet here.
C
Clayton Hintz
Agreed
Steve, I agree. I will contact Hunter to see what they used at manufacture and what they recommend for re-bed.
Steve, I agree. I will contact Hunter to see what they used at manufacture and what they recommend for re-bed.
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Clayton Hintz
Greg at Hunter reports..
that 3M 5200 was indeed used to bed the chain plates. Great. I guess I will have to use heat and patients to complete this one. Clayton
that 3M 5200 was indeed used to bed the chain plates. Great. I guess I will have to use heat and patients to complete this one. Clayton
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