First Weekend in the Water, First Sail and Lots of Questions

Barnacle Bill · May 2, 2011

Re: First Weekend in the Water, First Sail and Lots of Quest

The procedure to start the engine is simple. Make sure your intake seacock is open and your battery switch is positioned on the starting battery. Advance the throttle some and turn on the key. If it is cold out, you might have a glow plug switch or button to push for about 20 seconds and then push the start button until the engine starts. Look out the back to make sure that the exhaust is spitting out water which suggests the cooling system is cycling properly. If no water at the exhaust, then shut down and figger it out.
Oil changes are typically done at the winterizing stage. You mentioned water in the oil? If there is water in the oil, it will be milky looking, more like a light brown. Often you will not see real clean oil after a change because the oil is being extracted by a dip stick pump, most of the time and so you don't quite get it all out like on a car where the oil drains from a pan completely. It takes some work to get it really clean, if that is your choice.
Regarding the Dutchman system, I would contact either a dealer that sells/services them close to where you sail or try the manufacturer themselves to get proper replacement parts. You proably can also find on line a diagragm and maybe even download an owner's manual if one didn't come with the boat.
What kind of roller furling unit do you have? That might help in determining the problem. Maybe you need to either clean or lubricate the bearings, or if they are shot, replace them. Or it could be another problem. You want to check aloft and make sure the upper swivel is not catching on another halyard, or something too.
Congratulations and good luck with your new summer toy.

Witzend · May 2, 2011

Re: First Weekend in the Water, First Sail and Lots of Quest

Hey JK,
Engine start:
1) Turn on raw water intake.
2) Place transmission in neutral
3) Push throttle up 1/4
4) Turn key switch on (should hear beeper sounding, (if not check fuel pump shovel connector located on top of the fuel pump)
5) If cold, turn key to the spring loaded position for ~5 sec to energise the glow elements (this will also activate the fuel pump and can be confirmed by lifting the engine dog house cover and listening for a clicking sound) The engine will run for the fuel will gravity feed until ~5/8 of a full tank, then it will start cutting out if the fuel pump is not operating .
6) Push the start button

The engine should start almost immediately, at least mine does. If not, don't crank for more than 30 seconds (total crank time). If you do, raw water will collect in the muffler and could back wash into the exhaust manifold. To drain muffler you have to remove the small PITA drain plug on the back side of the muffler). If you feel it necessary to crank some more for trouble shooting, than turn the raw water sea cock off.

When you have finished motoring and want to sail, make sure you place the transmission in reverse to prevent the cone clutches in the transmission from slipping against each other causing premature wear on them from the prop turning while under sail.

Oil will turn color sooner than a gasoline engines, but viscosity should be similar to your car depending on what grade oil was used.

That is the normal way to rig a Dutchman, don't know the line lengths, take them down and measure them.

Pull down the head sail and inspect the head, wash it out with fresh water and make sure it spins freely. I use some dry DuPont Teflon spray on the ball bearing, not sure you can buy it anymore, don't use any oil. If you don't have enough halyard tension, the halyard may have wrapped around the fore stay. This will make pulling the sail down impossible until you can get the wrap unwound.
Cheers and good sailing!!
WE

jonfreeman · May 2, 2011

Re: First Weekend in the Water, First Sail and Lots of Quest

If you go to the Dutchman website http://www.mvbinfo.com/company.php and read the install manual there, there is a paragraph in there that tells you how to get new monofilament (enough for both) for the price of shipping. I did this late last year, and I recall it was $5.00. The install instructions will also help you adjust the system.

Regards,

Jon Freeman
C-310 "Summer Sojourn"
Tacoma, WA

jonfreeman · May 2, 2011

Re: First Weekend in the Water, First Sail and Lots of Quest

I just went to the site I recommended, and you may have to buy the monofilament. The "free offer" is not in the owner's manual any more. The good news is it will only cost you about $20.00. Sorry for the confusion.

Jon Freeman
C-310 "Summer Sojourn"
Tacoma, WA

goblin · May 2, 2011

Re: First Weekend in the Water, First Sail and Lots of Quest

Re: dutchman monofiliment, I used smooth, white .155 trimmer (weedeater) line from the local lawnmower shop & it's been up for at least 5 years. Was less than $5. for 100 feet.

paulj · May 2, 2011

ancient mariner

Before starting engine................

paulj :troll:

valcour · May 2, 2011

Re: First Weekend in the Water, First Sail and Lots of Quest

Paulj,
Been there, done that (why won't the engine start...dohh operator error). My SOP is to always push the stop handle back down after stopping the engine.

rpwillia · May 2, 2011

My $0.02

JK_Boston_Catalina310 said:
... Now for all the questions that I have:

1) Could someone please explain the engine starting procedure they follow (talking very basic level, this is my first desiel and I want to be sure I am doing it correct).

PaulJ's suggestion about the stop switch was good. First off store your key on the engine thru hull handle so you always remember to open the thru hull (I know PaulJ meant to say that but he was probably busy). If it is pretty cold out you may want to hit the glow plugs for 15 seconds by taking the start key and holding it in the spring loaded position. Then let the key go to the run position and then hit the start button.

2) The PO said he changed the oil in the fall when he winterized the boat, but when I checked the oil this weekend, after running it for a few minutes, it looks black and watery compared to car engine oil. Is there something wrong? Should I change the oil again?

Because of blow by in the cylinders the oil will turn black pretty quick (perhaps just a few minutes) and it does seem pretty thin, but unless you see a milky coloring in the oil you are OK.

3) Our boat came with a factory dutchman system. The PO rigged the dutchman's adjustable line (rope) from the end of the boom to the top of the mast on the topping lift. Is that correct?

That sounds correct. You can adjust it up and down with the end with the cam cleat set up at the end of the boom. One thing to remember is you don't want the line too tight - got that tip from the Dutchman guy at last years Annapolis show.

4) On of the mono-filament lines for the dutchman broke (not surprised, it was bad when we did the inspection) does anyone know the lengths of the two mono-filament lines and a cheap source for replacement line?

Go to Ace Hardware or one like that. I use .105 diameter line which is fine. I think a roll of a couple hundred feet was $3. If you are hitting Lowe's or Home Depot you may have to settle with red or lime green line, or at least that was my dilemma until I went to Ace and found the clear smooth line.

5) My roller furler is sticking. I am not sure if there is some salt build up inside that needs to be flushed or if the bearings need to be greased. To furl the sail we had to put the line on the winch and really crank it in. It wasn't smooth and came in with quick jerks rather than a smooth furl. Has anyone else had this happen?

Probably just need to rinse it out as it is probably got some salt in it. Do not use great as I don't think that will work. Of course you could always RFTM (some day I need to explain that term to PaulJ) and follow those directions.
...

A quick shout out to PaulJ. I had to adjust my AP rudder sensor this weekend but I still love the design.:hijacked:

paulj · May 3, 2011

JK_Boston_Catalina310

Here is my old sail with ducthman setup etc

paulj :troll:

Tom J · May 3, 2011

Re: First Weekend in the Water, First Sail and Lots of Quest

The line for the jiffy reefing should pass through the boom, around a sheave in the end of the boom, up and through the grommet in the sail and then is tied onto the boom. A bowline works fine here. The forward part of the line should lead up from the sheave in the boom near the gooseneck, through the grommet in the sail, and back down to the fairlead on the mast, and from there to the cockpit.
If you want to check out my boat, she is at the Town River Yacht Club, along with another Catalina. See you on the water!

paulj · May 3, 2011

JK_Boston_Catalina310

Do you have a Catalina 310 manual?

Use one one boat and keep copy at home or on your computer.

paulj :troll:

gpd955 · May 4, 2011

paulj said:
JK_Boston_Catalina310

Do you have a Catalina 310 manual?

Use one one boat and keep copy at home or on your computer.

I have it in PDF format if anyone needs it.

Is there a jiffy reef schematic in there? I couldn't find it.

paulj · May 4, 2011

I have the manual, a pdf and a hard copy and in mine is this page.....

paulj :troll:

gpd955 · May 4, 2011

paulj said:
I have the manual, a pdf and a hard copy and in mine is this page.....

paulj :troll:

Perfect. Added to library. Thanks!

CalebD · May 4, 2011

Re: First Weekend in the Water, First Sail and Lots of Quest

A note on engine starting procedure.

If you have to crank more then say 20 seconds without the engine catching you may risk getting water back flowing into your engine from your exhaust system.
If your engine requires lots of cranking it is a good idea to leave the cooling water valve closed until the engine kicks over.
The instructions given above for engine starting are fine for an engine that starts right up.

First Weekend in the Water, First Sail and Lots of Questions

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