is old what should I look for? It has not been used for some time. It is a pressurized two burner with oven. It has a tank in to transom. What should be my first course of action? Test the tank? If so how? Any way I searched the archives and saw the arguments for and against and think the stove will be fine for my usage. I called Kenyon at 860-664-4906 and asked for a manual and they seemed very nice and are sending one out. I have a 1983 C30. I have never used an Alcohol stove before. Some things will be answered when I get the manual but I am sure there are many experienced cooks here who could tell me what to do & not to do. Do you think I could just fill the tank and try it out? -CW
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Paul
Take is one step at a time....
I was in the same boat several years ago. Here is what I did: 1)Check that all the hoses appear intact...no cuts, breaks, etc. 2) If tank is in order, put in a gallon of Alcohol. 3) SCrew cap on, I used plumbers tape to help seal the old cap. And, start to presurize tank. 4) But, be sure outlet valve is closed and valves on stove are closed....other wise could get alcohol all over. 5) Once you have 5-10 pounds pressure in tank, go to stove and slowly open valve. You should have some alhol come out. At the same time, check your hoses to be sure nothing is leaking anywhere. Once you have pressure, it will leak if a problem. 6) Once a burner has a small little puddle of alcohol...not much, just a little, turn off valve. NOw light alcohol with a long match or lighter. 7) Alcohol will burn for a while and heat up the burner which in turn turns the alcohol into gas...inside the burner. 8) Once the old puddle is almost burned up, slowly open valve. You will see a small flame start out. and you are ready to cook. 9) The big trick is to be patient and let the little puddle heat up the burner so you have gas. I ussualyly let mine burn about a minute then slowly open the valve. Notice the word slowly! Just take your time and have an extinquisher handy just in case. We love our stove and oven. Paul
I was in the same boat several years ago. Here is what I did: 1)Check that all the hoses appear intact...no cuts, breaks, etc. 2) If tank is in order, put in a gallon of Alcohol. 3) SCrew cap on, I used plumbers tape to help seal the old cap. And, start to presurize tank. 4) But, be sure outlet valve is closed and valves on stove are closed....other wise could get alcohol all over. 5) Once you have 5-10 pounds pressure in tank, go to stove and slowly open valve. You should have some alhol come out. At the same time, check your hoses to be sure nothing is leaking anywhere. Once you have pressure, it will leak if a problem. 6) Once a burner has a small little puddle of alcohol...not much, just a little, turn off valve. NOw light alcohol with a long match or lighter. 7) Alcohol will burn for a while and heat up the burner which in turn turns the alcohol into gas...inside the burner. 8) Once the old puddle is almost burned up, slowly open valve. You will see a small flame start out. and you are ready to cook. 9) The big trick is to be patient and let the little puddle heat up the burner so you have gas. I ussualyly let mine burn about a minute then slowly open the valve. Notice the word slowly! Just take your time and have an extinquisher handy just in case. We love our stove and oven. Paul
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Gaspare
One thing to add
If you've never used a pressure alcohol stove before, be warned it's a tad scary the first time you light up the "puddle". Just be prepared to see some open flames 3 - 6 inches high and hear a lot of hissing sounds. It only lasts about 30 sec or so. Keep the fire extinquisher handy, water also works well putting out alcohol fires.
If you've never used a pressure alcohol stove before, be warned it's a tad scary the first time you light up the "puddle". Just be prepared to see some open flames 3 - 6 inches high and hear a lot of hissing sounds. It only lasts about 30 sec or so. Keep the fire extinquisher handy, water also works well putting out alcohol fires.
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John
Alcohol stove
The alcohol stove on my 83 Cat 30 was rebuilt by myself 2 seasons ago. You have received good advice. I find that even with a SMALL puddle in the dish I get flames which could be dangerous. Move any curtains out of the way and I wait until it completely dies out before I reopen the valve and relite which for me is several minutes. That way the is no liquid alcohol in the dish and the tube above is very hot and when I slowly open the valve and relite it burns perfectly. Be careful at first.
The alcohol stove on my 83 Cat 30 was rebuilt by myself 2 seasons ago. You have received good advice. I find that even with a SMALL puddle in the dish I get flames which could be dangerous. Move any curtains out of the way and I wait until it completely dies out before I reopen the valve and relite which for me is several minutes. That way the is no liquid alcohol in the dish and the tube above is very hot and when I slowly open the valve and relite it burns perfectly. Be careful at first.
R
Roland
More things to watch out for
The alcohol tanks have a tendency to rust out. I'd recommend removing it from the boat, pump it up to 10-15 lb and use some soap solution to look for pinhole leaks. You may want to sand off any rust, prime it and re-paint it while you have it out. Also, in the stove burners there are some replaceable wicks; if yours are hardenend or deteriorated, order some new ones and replace them. The wicks absorb the alcohol and reduce flare up considerably. One more point- dont try to relight a warm burner. Let it cool off, then relight it. The key is to let in the minimum amount of liquid into the cool burner before lighting. That will keep flare up to a minimum.
The alcohol tanks have a tendency to rust out. I'd recommend removing it from the boat, pump it up to 10-15 lb and use some soap solution to look for pinhole leaks. You may want to sand off any rust, prime it and re-paint it while you have it out. Also, in the stove burners there are some replaceable wicks; if yours are hardenend or deteriorated, order some new ones and replace them. The wicks absorb the alcohol and reduce flare up considerably. One more point- dont try to relight a warm burner. Let it cool off, then relight it. The key is to let in the minimum amount of liquid into the cool burner before lighting. That will keep flare up to a minimum.
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Dave
Stoves
Hi Chip; The best advice I can give, is if you want to stick with alchol for stove fuel, spend a couple of bucks and buy a new or used Oregio non pressurized stove. They have several models, built-in and counter top. We installed one on our Capri 26 and just loved it. My wife said it was the best improvment we had done. VERY SAFE! We used it for 3 summers, and several friends purchased one for their boats after seeing our in operation. Another option, since you have a C30, is to look for a used propane that was installed in a C30 and go for the convience of that fuel. Fari winds Dave
Hi Chip; The best advice I can give, is if you want to stick with alchol for stove fuel, spend a couple of bucks and buy a new or used Oregio non pressurized stove. They have several models, built-in and counter top. We installed one on our Capri 26 and just loved it. My wife said it was the best improvment we had done. VERY SAFE! We used it for 3 summers, and several friends purchased one for their boats after seeing our in operation. Another option, since you have a C30, is to look for a used propane that was installed in a C30 and go for the convience of that fuel. Fari winds Dave
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Brandon
Take a more invasive approach
I bought my C30 with the kenyon 3 brnr stove strapped down in place with no supply canister or lines (prev owner had a mini fridge in its place. I brought th estove home and gave it a thorough cleaning and started looking for a fuel supply setup. in the meantime, I jury-rigged an old coleman lantern base to supply fuel so I could test the stove and learn how to use it in the driveway(no worries about flameouts, etc). Some hard learned lessons: 1) don't torque the knobs to the left or you destroy the little burner jet cleaners that are inside the burner assembly. if you can turn the valve more than about a half a turn, or you feel it clicking/binding, you need to pull the burners apart and inspect the damage. key parts consist of a orifice/jet, jet cleaner with little teeth on the side, valve control stem with the little teeth to mate, packing "gland", and gland nut. really simple, nothing to be afraid of. 2) use 3/4" wrench to hold the bottom part of the burner(that comes up thru the pan) to unscrew the burner assembly. 3) the "wick" that you see in there after the burner assembly is removed is actually a filter that is inserted an inch or 2 into the tiny copper supply line. 4) that filter may be clogged and have to be extracted to allow adequate flow of fuel. I had to completely disassemble all three burners, remove the pan that they are mounted in, unpipe all the conections below and use various drill bits, fishing hooks, tricked out coat hangers and my air compressor to dig out the 20 years of sediment and solidified filter, and now I've got good fuel flow. I also contacted Kenyon and they are checking to see if they have new filters that I can reinsert to prevent my jets from fouling and new jet cleaners and control stems since all the teeth are stripped off mine. I found a stainless steel fuel pressure vessel at my local marine junkyard and paid $25 for it (they made me take the 2brnr stove with it which is in as good of shape as mine)! Now I have some spare parts. What a deal. Hooked it up and works like a Jenn-Aire! I have a good article on maintenance, use and safety. find it at www.alohaowners.com/pages/manuals/files/wavetek.pdf As for safety, I keep a simple 20 oz. plastic Coke bottle with a couple of holes punched in the cap in my sink. Water is the flame stopper of choice with alcohol.
I bought my C30 with the kenyon 3 brnr stove strapped down in place with no supply canister or lines (prev owner had a mini fridge in its place. I brought th estove home and gave it a thorough cleaning and started looking for a fuel supply setup. in the meantime, I jury-rigged an old coleman lantern base to supply fuel so I could test the stove and learn how to use it in the driveway(no worries about flameouts, etc). Some hard learned lessons: 1) don't torque the knobs to the left or you destroy the little burner jet cleaners that are inside the burner assembly. if you can turn the valve more than about a half a turn, or you feel it clicking/binding, you need to pull the burners apart and inspect the damage. key parts consist of a orifice/jet, jet cleaner with little teeth on the side, valve control stem with the little teeth to mate, packing "gland", and gland nut. really simple, nothing to be afraid of. 2) use 3/4" wrench to hold the bottom part of the burner(that comes up thru the pan) to unscrew the burner assembly. 3) the "wick" that you see in there after the burner assembly is removed is actually a filter that is inserted an inch or 2 into the tiny copper supply line. 4) that filter may be clogged and have to be extracted to allow adequate flow of fuel. I had to completely disassemble all three burners, remove the pan that they are mounted in, unpipe all the conections below and use various drill bits, fishing hooks, tricked out coat hangers and my air compressor to dig out the 20 years of sediment and solidified filter, and now I've got good fuel flow. I also contacted Kenyon and they are checking to see if they have new filters that I can reinsert to prevent my jets from fouling and new jet cleaners and control stems since all the teeth are stripped off mine. I found a stainless steel fuel pressure vessel at my local marine junkyard and paid $25 for it (they made me take the 2brnr stove with it which is in as good of shape as mine)! Now I have some spare parts. What a deal. Hooked it up and works like a Jenn-Aire! I have a good article on maintenance, use and safety. find it at www.alohaowners.com/pages/manuals/files/wavetek.pdf As for safety, I keep a simple 20 oz. plastic Coke bottle with a couple of holes punched in the cap in my sink. Water is the flame stopper of choice with alcohol.
B
Brandon
Parts information
Don't know if you've read my first response, but wanted to follow up with the outcome of the parts situation. Here's the reply from Kenyon customer care. Beth Cerny was my contact and she was very helpful--------- Hi Brandon, I have sent you 3 different manuals for models, one must be yours. From your description, I think the following are the parts you requested: B93008 Spindle Assembly, H1123 $25.00 (2 per pack) also called a valvewith nut and packing B93013 Cleaning Needle, 240149 $11.50 (2 per pack) The spindle assembly comes with all the parts that go in the side of the burner and attach to the control wheel. If you want to place the order please call me at 860-664-4906. We accept Visa or MasterCard for payment. Additionally, the "wick" referred to in other replies and my own is officially known as: B90328 String Filter $6 (i think) (4 per pack) Good luck, email me- bwyrick@houston.rr.com- if you have further ??'s
Don't know if you've read my first response, but wanted to follow up with the outcome of the parts situation. Here's the reply from Kenyon customer care. Beth Cerny was my contact and she was very helpful--------- Hi Brandon, I have sent you 3 different manuals for models, one must be yours. From your description, I think the following are the parts you requested: B93008 Spindle Assembly, H1123 $25.00 (2 per pack) also called a valvewith nut and packing B93013 Cleaning Needle, 240149 $11.50 (2 per pack) The spindle assembly comes with all the parts that go in the side of the burner and attach to the control wheel. If you want to place the order please call me at 860-664-4906. We accept Visa or MasterCard for payment. Additionally, the "wick" referred to in other replies and my own is officially known as: B90328 String Filter $6 (i think) (4 per pack) Good luck, email me- bwyrick@houston.rr.com- if you have further ??'s
C
Chip Willis
Have not lite stove yet but have gotten
the manual. Kind of did things a little backwards. I bought a C30 and love it. My wife and I then decided to take sailing lessons on a keel boat. I had a Catamaran 14’ for a summer (selling it now) and got hooked on sailing. Just before the sailing lesions we moved our daughter to Long Beach and then we moved and then started the lesions every weekend. So I have not had much time to do anything on the boat. Ordered new cousins and replaced a through whole valve and am working on another and am replacing the faucet and generally cleaning it up. In the next couple of weeks I will light it up (the stove), as soon as I do I will post the results. In a few years we are going to go to Costa Rica for good, I am thinking of a 1978 or so 41' Islander Freeport Ketch. Have you heard anything good or bad about that boat or is this off topic? CW
the manual. Kind of did things a little backwards. I bought a C30 and love it. My wife and I then decided to take sailing lessons on a keel boat. I had a Catamaran 14’ for a summer (selling it now) and got hooked on sailing. Just before the sailing lesions we moved our daughter to Long Beach and then we moved and then started the lesions every weekend. So I have not had much time to do anything on the boat. Ordered new cousins and replaced a through whole valve and am working on another and am replacing the faucet and generally cleaning it up. In the next couple of weeks I will light it up (the stove), as soon as I do I will post the results. In a few years we are going to go to Costa Rica for good, I am thinking of a 1978 or so 41' Islander Freeport Ketch. Have you heard anything good or bad about that boat or is this off topic? CW
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Chip Willis
I did print out the pdf and it is the same
stove I have with oven. www.alohaowners.com/pages/manuals/files/wavetek.pdf Thanks CW
stove I have with oven. www.alohaowners.com/pages/manuals/files/wavetek.pdf Thanks CW
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