First time topside paint job

Dec 24, 2017
139
O’day 27 Oklahoma City
hi
CORRECTION!
I mean paint the deck not topside
I’m going to start buying some paint to repaint the deck of my O’day 27. I’ve never painted a boat before so not sure what the average amount of paint I’d need. Anyone have any advise how many quarts I’d need to cover this? I’m going to use Pettit blue ice to cover the dark blue and then a white for where it should be white. I was thinking 3 quarts of the blue and 1 quart of the white? Another question is can I use topside paint for the deck?
 

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Oct 10, 2011
619
Tartan 34C Toms River, New Jersey
I am not a expert, but you might save some money by buying a gallon. You may also want to thin the paint to help spread. I am scheduled to have my topside/hull painted or should I say Awlgrip forest green in April. Originally was going to roll/tip, but decided on spray. Prepping the surface is the hard and time consuming part. Just make sure you prep your surface according to the topside paint you use. Good luck.
 
Jan 5, 2017
2,343
Beneteau First 38 Lyall Harbour Saturna Island
I did our E-28+ a few years ago. Just the hull. Used 2 quarts of Interlux Perfection for 2 coats. Designed to be rolled and tipped for the DIY guy.
 

TomY

Alden Forum Moderator
Jun 22, 2004
2,768
Alden 38' Challenger yawl Rockport Harbor
hi
I’m going to start buying some paint to repaint the topside of my O’day 27. I’ve never painted a boat before so not sure what the average amount of paint I’d need. Anyone have any advise how many quarts I’d need to cover this? I’m going to use Pettit blue ice to cover the dark blue and then a white for where it should be white. I was thinking 3 quarts of the blue and 1 quart of the white?
We paint the topsides of our 38' yawl every 4-5 years with 1 part enamel. I buy 2 quarts of Easypoxy or similar. That's enough to roll and tip the topsides with probably a cup left over.

This is one coat - rolled and tipped - over the lightly sanded (spot filled and primed), topsides.

Staging is key. Put your work where your hands are the most comfortable.
Rolling tipping duo 2 (1 of 1).jpg

The actual painting, if you choose the right weather, can be pretty easy and fun work.
Launched 2017 (1 of 1).jpg
Not including prep (which can take forever - or a few hours, your call), my daughter rolled, while I followed along tipping, the hull in about 3 hours of easy work.

The left over cup, goes on the dinghy (which she, or my son usually paint for me).
MJ painting Eve 2 (1 of 1).jpg
 

TomY

Alden Forum Moderator
Jun 22, 2004
2,768
Alden 38' Challenger yawl Rockport Harbor
hi
I’m going to start buying some paint to repaint the topside of my O’day 27. I’ve never painted a boat before so not sure what the average amount of paint I’d need. Anyone have any advise how many quarts I’d need to cover this? I’m going to use Pettit blue ice to cover the dark blue and then a white for where it should be white. I was thinking 3 quarts of the blue and 1 quart of the white?
Uh-oh. Wait a minute, looking at your photo, you may have said 'topsides', when you meant 'deck'.

In which case you may just need one quart depending upon what you apply and how.

'Topsides' is the area of the hull above the waterline, and below the decks.
 
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Jan 1, 2006
7,471
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
Judging from your picture I think you are talking about painting the deck and cabin top. I would guess two quarts but non-skid has more surface area than flat sections. How are you going to handle non-skid? You would do better with two thin coats than one thick one. Use the correct thinners and solvents to clean the surface. You are going to put a lot of labor into this. Respect your time by not skimping on materials.
 
Dec 24, 2017
139
O’day 27 Oklahoma City
Thanks! I guess I figured top side meant the deck. So I’ll look for “deck paint” rather then “topside paint” correct?
I saw where people use sand over the wet paint. Is that correct to stop the slipping?
Thanks. Shows I’m a newbie
Mike
 
Jan 1, 2006
7,471
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
You should probably visit the Hamilton Marine website. There is a lot of information about painting there. Most paints for the hull are glossy which is unsuitable for a deck. Here are some choices to give you some options:
https://www.defender.com/category.jsp?name=non-skid&path=-1|2200442&id=2200457
Others on this site are much more knowledgeable on this subject so stay tuned a while. And of course try to buy from this site.
 
Dec 24, 2017
139
O’day 27 Oklahoma City
Thanks. I’ve been looking at kiwi grip non skid deck paint. That seems to look good but it’s a water base. Is that something that will last in the long run?
 
Jan 7, 2011
5,456
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
Thanks! I guess I figured top side meant the deck. So I’ll look for “deck paint” rather then “topside paint” correct?
I saw where people use sand over the wet paint. Is that correct to stop the slipping?
Thanks. Shows I’m a newbie
Mike
Sand has been added to wet paint to create non-skid in many applications, but not sure that would be best for your boat. There are some special materials for non-skid areas that combine a thicker paint material and a special roller that adds texture. You mask off the areas to receive the non-skid.

Here is a neat demonstration.

 

TomY

Alden Forum Moderator
Jun 22, 2004
2,768
Alden 38' Challenger yawl Rockport Harbor
Thanks! I guess I figured top side meant the deck. So I’ll look for “deck paint” rather then “topside paint” correct?
I saw where people use sand over the wet paint. Is that correct to stop the slipping?
Thanks. Shows I’m a newbie
Mike
If your non-skid pattern is in good condition (not too smoothed out from wear), you might be able to paint right over it. I'm still painting the non skid pattern on my boat. No grit added.

Once you get into sanding the non skid off, you're into a bigger project.
 
Jan 7, 2011
5,456
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
@TomY is right. The non-skid on my O’Day 322 takes the sk8n off my knuckles when I am scrubbing it by hand. I think I could just paint over it.

It would take more paint though....

Greg
 

Joe

.
Jun 1, 2004
8,163
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
The instructions on the can... or in the manufacturer's website... will tell you how much you need, how to apply it and whether it is suitable for the intended purpose. Covering non-skid areas requires a paint that is NOT glossy.... There are a number of non-skid additives that can be mixed in to provide the desired result. The white area of your deck can be painted with normal topside paint but you may need to experiment with the white non skid areas in the cockpit (the seats)....
Also.... with paint you will need a primer... again... study the directions on the can.
Finally... the kiwi grip product is ideal for covering the old blue nonskid. Water base is irrelevant.... makes it easier to thin.(no more than 10%) Check out the many videos, there is a small learning curve in it's application...but the result will be very satisfactory.
In the pic below... the grey kiwi grip non skid used to look like your old blue stuff... well worth the effort, don't ya think.
Impulse 7-17.jpg
 
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Dec 24, 2017
139
O’day 27 Oklahoma City
For the most part there are still groves in the deck paint. There are some smooth spots. But 90% or over still good. Would I still use the kiwi non skid paint but not lay it on as thick and use a normal roller? And then here’s another question. I’ll be doing this in the slip. How does a guy paint and then get off the boat after?
 
Dec 24, 2017
139
O’day 27 Oklahoma City
The instructions on the can... or in the manufacturer's website... will tell you how much you need, how to apply it and whether it is suitable for the intended purpose. Covering non-skid areas requires a paint that is NOT glossy.... There are a number of non-skid additives that can be mixed in to provide the desired result. The white area of your deck can be painted with normal topside paint but you may need to experiment with the white non skid areas in the cockpit (the seats)....
Also.... with paint you will need a primer... again... study the directions on the can.
Finally... the kiwi grip product is ideal for covering the old blue nonskid. Water base is irrelevant.... makes it easier to thin.(no more than 10%) Check out the many videos, there is a small learning curve in it's application...but the result will be very satisfactory.
In the pic below... the grey kiwi grip non skid used to look like your old blue stuff... well worth the effort, don't ya think.
View attachment 147242
Thanks Joe and yes the boat looks great. So I wouldn’t need to use a primer if I used the kiwi?
That sounds great. I was thinking the light blue color they sell.
Thanks again
Mike
 

Joe

.
Jun 1, 2004
8,163
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
Thanks Joe and yes the boat looks great. So I wouldn’t need to use a primer if I used the kiwi?
That sounds great. I was thinking the light blue color they sell.
Thanks again
Mike
No primer.... but you must prep the surface specifically according to their instructions. There is a video produce by the company, plus other youtube stuff... The product comes with a detailed brochure on application technique and the special roller. You must practice this, to get the feel of it, before applying to boat... so purchase at least a gallon, I purchased a quart from Minney's in Coast Mesa to experiment and appraise the color...then ordered a gallon from Fawcet marine .. look online for best deals... do not pay more than $148/gal.
As far as color goes.... I love the grey or cream colors. You can also tint the product to your preference... any paint shop will do it... it's water based, remember.

For the most part there are still groves in the deck paint. There are some smooth spots. But 90% or over still good. Would I still use the kiwi non skid paint but not lay it on as thick and use a normal roller? And then here’s another question. I’ll be doing this in the slip. How does a guy paint and then get off the boat after?
First question... NO.. do not use a regular roller. this stuff is very thick, more like plaster than paint... it will completely cover the texture of the underlaying surface... it's nonskid element is the little peaks created by the special roller. Second question... you will not be able, nor should you try, to paint the whole thing all at once. break it up into sections and go from one to the other. I found it convenient to sit or stand on the dock alongside the boat.... you may have to re position the boat occasionally to make it convenient. DO NOT RUSH... it takes 24 hours drying time before you can walk on it... at least a week for a complete cure. So.. do one side one week end, the other the next... Do the cabin top area first... then the lower areas. As I constantly remind everyone... READ THE INSTRUCTIONS......
 
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Dec 24, 2017
139
O’day 27 Oklahoma City
Well thank you Joe! The cheapest I’ve found so far is $149 for the gallon plus $17 shipping on defend. It’s $159 on amazon prime with $13 tax and $149 on West Marine but haven’t set up account so don’t know what shipping is. EBay is terriblely expensive.
I’ll keep looking. My wife says every sailboat we see is either cream or grey. She says she likes the light blue they offer, but I worry light blue will make it look dated. Any thoughts on that?
Thanks again
Mike
 

HMT2

.
Mar 20, 2014
900
Hunter 31 828 Shoreacres, TX
Mike, I painted mine back in 2013. Here is something I sent to someone posting about this same topic.

Tom, first Don Casey’s book This Old Boat is a great resource for any project boat. I have a copy at home and one on the boat. Also, Interlux has an ask the expert thing online, and I have actually called and spoken with some of their technical advisors and they are helpful.

Once you have committed to DIY, to paint the topsides the first thing you need to do is decide one part or two part. This was my first time to paint with marine paint or paint a boat so I opted for the less durable easier to use one part Brightside by Interlux. (Good reviews in Practical Sailor) I used white, where I live and in St. Pete even a light gray or beige can heat up. I mixed in Intergrip to the paint for my nonskid areas. This is a must, because just paint over the nonskid is super slick.

I bought the majority of my supplies at Home Depot or Sherwin Williams. You need smooth foam rollers 2in and 4in trays, tape etc. . For doing the molded nonskid you will need four inch with some nap on it. (I found the 2in very helpful for tighter spots.) You will also need lots of sandpaper, I bought a new sander that uses quarter sheets of sandpaper, the kind indicated in Don Casey’s book, it was a good call. I bought all of my primer, paint, cleaners and thinners online from a place in FL and saved about three hundred dollars over West Marine and local chandlery including shipping. Lots of foam brushes and one good badger hair brush.

Start with a really good cleaning, then remove every piece of deck hardware, hinges etc. that you can, I left the cleats. Then use Interlux de-waxing solvent 202 I used less than a quart. Wipe everything down liberally, then rinse (as directed on the can I think) I never found any gloves that would stand up to this solvent it ate through three pair of “chemical resistant gloves”. Then start sanding, you are not sanding everything off, just making it ready to take the primer. I forget but I think I went 80, 150, 220 before I primed. You do not want to get down to the fiberglass. Then fill and fair any holes or damage that you want taken care of sand those to smooth. Wash down, wipe down with Interlux 333 using two rag method. (one for wetting one for wiping). Then prime the whole topside, I rolled it on and tipped it. When dry, sand, wash wipe and paint.
I painted the whole topside with one coat, rolled and tipped everything. Did the deck one day and the coach roof and cockpit the next. Then taped off all the nonskid areas, mixed in the intergrip (stirring frequently) using the rollers with nap on them did two coats. I did paint the tops of the raised area just in front of the cockpit with the nonskid paint and I love that, otherwise that would be slick. I roughed up with a scotchbrite pad between coats on the nonskid. Pull the tape then paint the smooth areas, roll and tip. Sanding and wiping between coats. I kept the brush near by rolled a little area and tipped. I used foam brushes for all but the final coat where I used the badger hair brush.

One thing I did and was glad I did was take the tops off of the lazarettes in the cockpit took them home and practiced on them before starting full bore. It was very helpful and frankly encouraging to do that first. That way if it was a total disaster I could put cushions on them and be done.

I ended up putting some Seadek pads down in the cockpit floor, I really like them. My dad had thrown down some Awlgrip paint without prepping properly and it was coming off and I could not get it out of all the recesses so I covered it. Here are some pics. Before, doing and after.
 

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pateco

.
Aug 12, 2014
2,207
Hunter 31 (1983) Pompano Beach FL
Mike, I painted mine back in 2013. Here is something I sent to someone posting about this same topic.

Tom, first Don Casey’s book This Old Boat is a great resource for any project boat. I have a copy at home and one on the boat. Also, Interlux has an ask the expert thing online, and I have actually called and spoken with some of their technical advisors and they are helpful.

Once you have committed to DIY, to paint the topsides the first thing you need to do is decide one part or two part. This was my first time to paint with marine paint or paint a boat so I opted for the less durable easier to use one part Brightside by Interlux. (Good reviews in Practical Sailor) I used white, where I live and in St. Pete even a light gray or beige can heat up. I mixed in Intergrip to the paint for my nonskid areas. This is a must, because just paint over the nonskid is super slick.

I bought the majority of my supplies at Home Depot or Sherwin Williams. You need smooth foam rollers 2in and 4in trays, tape etc. . For doing the molded nonskid you will need four inch with some nap on it. (I found the 2in very helpful for tighter spots.) You will also need lots of sandpaper, I bought a new sander that uses quarter sheets of sandpaper, the kind indicated in Don Casey’s book, it was a good call. I bought all of my primer, paint, cleaners and thinners online from a place in FL and saved about three hundred dollars over West Marine and local chandlery including shipping. Lots of foam brushes and one good badger hair brush.

Start with a really good cleaning, then remove every piece of deck hardware, hinges etc. that you can, I left the cleats. Then use Interlux de-waxing solvent 202 I used less than a quart. Wipe everything down liberally, then rinse (as directed on the can I think) I never found any gloves that would stand up to this solvent it ate through three pair of “chemical resistant gloves”. Then start sanding, you are not sanding everything off, just making it ready to take the primer. I forget but I think I went 80, 150, 220 before I primed. You do not want to get down to the fiberglass. Then fill and fair any holes or damage that you want taken care of sand those to smooth. Wash down, wipe down with Interlux 333 using two rag method. (one for wetting one for wiping). Then prime the whole topside, I rolled it on and tipped it. When dry, sand, wash wipe and paint.
I painted the whole topside with one coat, rolled and tipped everything. Did the deck one day and the coach roof and cockpit the next. Then taped off all the nonskid areas, mixed in the intergrip (stirring frequently) using the rollers with nap on them did two coats. I did paint the tops of the raised area just in front of the cockpit with the nonskid paint and I love that, otherwise that would be slick. I roughed up with a scotchbrite pad between coats on the nonskid. Pull the tape then paint the smooth areas, roll and tip. Sanding and wiping between coats. I kept the brush near by rolled a little area and tipped. I used foam brushes for all but the final coat where I used the badger hair brush.

One thing I did and was glad I did was take the tops off of the lazarettes in the cockpit took them home and practiced on them before starting full bore. It was very helpful and frankly encouraging to do that first. That way if it was a total disaster I could put cushions on them and be done.

I ended up putting some Seadek pads down in the cockpit floor, I really like them. My dad had thrown down some Awlgrip paint without prepping properly and it was coming off and I could not get it out of all the recesses so I covered it. Here are some pics. Before, doing and after.
HMT2,

It looks great. My gelcoat is wearing through on the cockpit seating areas (brown showing through), And I was trying to decide between painting, or reapplying gelcoat. How has your piant job lasted.

PS Tell me about your windlass. I have been trying to find a way to add a windlass to my H31.
 

TomY

Alden Forum Moderator
Jun 22, 2004
2,768
Alden 38' Challenger yawl Rockport Harbor
My wife says every sailboat we see is either cream or grey. She says she likes the light blue they offer, but I worry light blue will make it look dated. Any thoughts on that?
Thanks again
Mike
Your wife is right! 'Yacht' paints offer just so many colors, and that's what boats wear.

This is an acrylic enamel from my local hardware store. I've been experimenting with acrylic enamels on the boat for a decade or so. I like them, give me good use for one part. Although my hull and deck are fiberglass, I tend to follow the wooden boat system of one part enamels, and applying them more regularly.

I'm still painting on the original non skid pattern without grit. This finish isn't high gloss and has enough 'tooth' (with the non-skid pattern), in the paint (at least for me).

I use custom colors for the deck and house top, mixed at the store. I started with a buff and then tinted a bit more toward yellow. The house top (which is plywood with a fiberglass sheath), is a 'fog' shade of gray. Grays are always nice on deck.
Hove to mizzen 3 (1 of 1).jpg