First time fiberglass repair - Should I try?

[pearsoncommander251]

I consider myself a very handy and capable repair guy. I’ve rebuild cars, engines, washing machines, driers, installed ceramic tile, carpet, hot water heaters… on, and on, and on… But I have NEVER repaired ANYTHING on a sailboat.
I have soft spots all over the deck, every penetration (stanchions, bow pulpit, cleats, etc) are soft and visibly leak.
Should I try to repair or just let the yard do the work?
Based on how much is bad should I peel large sections or multiple small sections?
1967 Pearson commander

 

[justsomeguy]

Yes, IMO, you should try. If you mess up, just sand away and try again. The most difficult part will likely be gelcoat color matching.
Lots of info out there.

I'm still trying to figure out why anyone would want to heat hot water...

 

[25yearslater]

I did. http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=123244 I've never done it before but if you can read and follow instructions you can too. West Systems has a how to on everything.

 

[pearsoncommander251]

What are you showing us a picture of and where is this on your vessel?

Inside the cabin looking up at the stanchion mounting plate and cleat mounting. Both actively leak and are soft about 3 inches in all directions. The deck as a whole probably has 15 locations that need some repair due to rot.

 

[pearsoncommander251]

I did. http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=123244 I've never done it before but if you can read and follow instructions you can too. West Systems has a how to on everything.

I've watched dozens of videos which is giving me some confidence.

I’m not sure how to start… should I use a Dremel or Oscillating Multi Tool Saw?

Try to reuse the skin or lay all new glass?

 

[25yearslater]

I used a router and 1/4 inch carbide straight bit. Check your skin thickness before doing anything. You need a 12/1 taper so cutting to close to the edges won't give you a proper area for strength. I used new biaxial cloth as it adds strength over the standard mat that was original plus there is less chance of a void when rebonding an old section. The router offers the advantage of precise depth of cut and that prevents any mishaps with the core or worse the bottom skin.

 

[tommays]

The problem is while it is somewhat hard it consumes a LOT of time and on old boats with plywood core its fairly never ending due to the water migration through the plywood


The Fein is the tool as it makes low dust cuts




I left well enough alone in some smaller areas and fixed the leak but had to completely replace the forward 10 feet of the boat

 

[Chris Patterson]

From what little I'm seeing, you're going to have to cut out a larger section than just where your hardware bolts through. Although it may be soft in only those small areas, I think you're going to find out that the ply is wet in a much larger spectrum.

Would I do it? In a minute. Is it easy?
I'd rather tell the wife that her dress makes her butt look big..

 

[Bob J.]

I'd sound the deck out with a hammer & mark where it goes thud. Cut the upper skin off & throw it away, forget about tyring to match the gel coat.
Put the new core in, glass over it, fair it out, repaint & non skid where needed.

It's not hard just very time consuming

 

[Ross]

Before you start get a 4.5 inch right angle grinder with a bunch of 25 grit sanding disks and an assortment of finer ones. Safety for yourself is paramount so be prepared to cover up.

 

[Merlin Clark]

With the side grinder get some thin cutting wheels. They will make a mess but it will be faster than most other methods and with less damage. The oscillating too would be helpfull in tight spots but it's slow. I would get the $19 one from Harbor Frieght. Retain and reuse the skin rather than add work.
Download and read the West System information from their site. I'd use West System epoxy for this too. There are other GOOD brands I've just never used them.
Paying the yard to do this will be expensive! I had a quote of $8k to do the fore deck on a 35' 13 years ago.
Took a couple of weekends not including fairing and painting. I'd work from the top and paint the whole deck, section by section, as you go because the epoxy is not protected from UV. Once you get used to it, epoxy is great to work with.

 

[25yearslater]

Ross is right about safety. When you work at removing and grinding the dust is going to fly. Wear proper respiratory equipment. Slap on the baby powder all over and you won't itch. The gelcoat can be matched and Gibco makes Flex Mold that if you desire can recreate the original nonskid surface of your deck. Go with Mini Craft in Florida for the best price. Thumb through And so it begins as I have recreated my 27 Oday to as good if not better than new status. I also included the vendors I used and what products worked and didn't work along with techniques I developed to save huge costs.

 

[sandpiper10471]

Go for it! I charge around $100 a square foot for a deck recore. And it isn't hard. Just dirty with a few tricks.
Work from above. I have done it both ways and avoid working from below like the plague. My favourite excision tool is an angle grinder fitted with a four inch diamond blade. Cheap ones available at big box hardware stores.
There are now products specifically designed to adhere new coring to old skins. One such product is "Core Bond". Does an excellent job, if expensive.
Stick with polyester resins but do read the West System info on deck repair for concepts and techniques.

 

[knot smart]

Yes, IMO, you should try. If you mess up, just sand away and try again.

+1

I just bought my first boat ..total loss from Sandy.. watched a lot of you tube videos and did it my self...

 

[rardiH36]

Hi:

Based upon your DIY history, and all the how-to resources available for the process, undoubtedly you can do it.

BUT be prepared that all this is going to be more involved, and difficult, and time-consuming than you are likely budgeting.

My only experience was a section of my cockpit sole. 2'x3', if that. Granted, I needed to remove/reinstall the binnacle and steering, but the whole project took most of a five day week of cutting, prying away old core, measuring, getting thicknesses right, fairing, restoring the cosmetics/painting (and being careful about it since this also was my first time for this type of repair), drilling new holes for the through-bolts in the exact same spot as before, beveling and caulking them (so no more future leaks!) and putting all back together again. Lots of time was needed to plan the next steps, identify and buy supplies/tools and to be sure that I brought the right tools from my garage to the boat yard each day.

Where will you be doing the work?

 

[Ross]

As with any unfamilar project it will take longer than if it were the hundredth time you had done the job. I can advise that if you have any doubt about whether the core is too bad to leave in place -- it is. get new core material to compare strength and toughness.

 

[bffatcat]

I tried a repair like this about 3 years ago It was a stancion post ripped out of the deck A much smaller repair than your about to tackle. The repair came out solid but it was cosmetically challenged. I eventually had my 75 pearson 26 weekender completely reconditioned by a competent yard. Go ahead and try it. I found what I did to be a dirty frustrating job.

 

[cat30]

hot water heater

I'm still trying to figure out why anyone would want to heat hot water...[/QUOTE]

after the water is hot or warm- the heater continues to heat it, hence, hot water heater?

 

[Ross]

I can make a functional repair on a torn out stanchion in about 3 hours and I can make it pretty in about 12 hours.

 

[rgranger]

Here is the bible...

Go for it...

And get this book

http://www.amazon.com/Caseys-Complete-Illustrated-Sailboat-Maintenance/dp/0071462848

It has illustrated, step-by-step, instructions on exactly how to do each of the repairs you mentioned. It is written for the novice but the results are not amateurish.