Hi.. a beginners question... The exterior teak on my C27 has only been oiled in the past and needs some help. After doing some research, I think I'm going to give it a few coats of Cetol. My question is, do I have to take the teak off the deck and coat the entire piece of wood (bottom included), or can I just mask it off and coat it on deck? If I coat it on deck and leave the underside untreated, will there be issues with moisture coming in the wood from the bottom and causing the Cetol to flake? Thanks, Cris
First Time Cetol Question
- Thread starter Cris Hazzard
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Nope
I leave ours on the boat, there is no need to take it off. Anything underneath should already be sealed to avoid drips through the deck or coachroof. The edges of the Cetol won't crack. Stu
I leave ours on the boat, there is no need to take it off. Anything underneath should already be sealed to avoid drips through the deck or coachroof. The edges of the Cetol won't crack. Stu
The secret to great looking Cetol
is in the prep....clean and sand as meticilously as if you were gonna varnish. Then wait until the wood is completely dry before applying the first coat. Then read and follow ALL the directions! It's gorgeous if it's done right...looks awful if it isn't. It's NOT a 1-day job...rarely even just a one-weekend job. Someone on the CWBB posted more excellent advice...I strongly recommend that you follow it: http://forum.cruisingworld.com/forums/genlmesg/index.pl?read=414114 As for whether to remove the wood...anything that lays flat against the fiberglass can stay put...but I'd remove any pieces that have 4 exposed sides...grab rails, ladder treads etc...you can do those at home. I used Cetol on my boats for more than 10 years, btw.
is in the prep....clean and sand as meticilously as if you were gonna varnish. Then wait until the wood is completely dry before applying the first coat. Then read and follow ALL the directions! It's gorgeous if it's done right...looks awful if it isn't. It's NOT a 1-day job...rarely even just a one-weekend job. Someone on the CWBB posted more excellent advice...I strongly recommend that you follow it: http://forum.cruisingworld.com/forums/genlmesg/index.pl?read=414114 As for whether to remove the wood...anything that lays flat against the fiberglass can stay put...but I'd remove any pieces that have 4 exposed sides...grab rails, ladder treads etc...you can do those at home. I used Cetol on my boats for more than 10 years, btw.
My first time
I just used Cetol Light for the first time too, looks great! All previous advice is good. I did mine on the boat, except for hatchboards. I was careful to shade it while doing it as it says do not apply in direct sunlight. Prep IS everything, I sanded first and applied while absolutely dry. First coat looks great, and subsequent coats make it a little darker with each coat. Sikkens says 3 coats for first time use, however I found 3 coats to be a little glossy for my taste, but its done so I can't do much about it now. I really like the way it looked after only one coat, two was a little worse (again, for my taste), but I wanted to follow all the direx as this was my first time using it. Good luck! Tim _/)
I just used Cetol Light for the first time too, looks great! All previous advice is good. I did mine on the boat, except for hatchboards. I was careful to shade it while doing it as it says do not apply in direct sunlight. Prep IS everything, I sanded first and applied while absolutely dry. First coat looks great, and subsequent coats make it a little darker with each coat. Sikkens says 3 coats for first time use, however I found 3 coats to be a little glossy for my taste, but its done so I can't do much about it now. I really like the way it looked after only one coat, two was a little worse (again, for my taste), but I wanted to follow all the direx as this was my first time using it. Good luck! Tim _/)
Previous owner
My previous owner was putting it on the stern-rail seats as we were looking at/buying the boat last December.. it was rainy and cold. It came out beautiful EXCEPT it is not glossy but more of a soft semi-gloss which I think probably looks even better. Gary
My previous owner was putting it on the stern-rail seats as we were looking at/buying the boat last December.. it was rainy and cold. It came out beautiful EXCEPT it is not glossy but more of a soft semi-gloss which I think probably looks even better. Gary
Applying in wet weather is VERY risky!
Even in high humidity...'cuz if ANY moisture is sealed under it, the wood will turn black. If you've owned the boat for more than a few months without seeing any black wood, you've dodged a bullet.
Even in high humidity...'cuz if ANY moisture is sealed under it, the wood will turn black. If you've owned the boat for more than a few months without seeing any black wood, you've dodged a bullet.
Cetol
I did the stern seats and the hattch slide grab bar with Cetol DID by taking off at haulout ( put a winter sub. grab bar on hatch cover) and taking home over winter. This job with first coats and finish coats, takes a lot of days to complete properly. But at home in the dry winter interior of a house it comes out like glass You must clean and sand meticulously and follow instr. to the letter especially timing of coats. Been on now for three years and looks as good as the day i finished it. I am told you can feather in top coats when needed but so far not needed Can not say enough good stuff about this product T H 340
I did the stern seats and the hattch slide grab bar with Cetol DID by taking off at haulout ( put a winter sub. grab bar on hatch cover) and taking home over winter. This job with first coats and finish coats, takes a lot of days to complete properly. But at home in the dry winter interior of a house it comes out like glass You must clean and sand meticulously and follow instr. to the letter especially timing of coats. Been on now for three years and looks as good as the day i finished it. I am told you can feather in top coats when needed but so far not needed Can not say enough good stuff about this product T H 340
Additional question
My grab-rails have only been oiled and that hasn't happened for the last 3 years. They have the classic grey weathering color but the grain is very pronounced (peaks and valleys). Many have mentioned proper sanding before using Cetol but if I tried to sand mine to a smooth surface, there wouldn't be much wood left. Am I destined to only use oil?
My grab-rails have only been oiled and that hasn't happened for the last 3 years. They have the classic grey weathering color but the grain is very pronounced (peaks and valleys). Many have mentioned proper sanding before using Cetol but if I tried to sand mine to a smooth surface, there wouldn't be much wood left. Am I destined to only use oil?
Sand
Bill...no need to sand it smooth. Sand as best you can and put on three coats of Cetol, it'll work great.
Bill...no need to sand it smooth. Sand as best you can and put on three coats of Cetol, it'll work great.
rescue of an old cetol job
My boat came with an old, poorly maintained cetol job ... the old orange stuff. This past weekend, I used a 3M paint and varnish pad (circular, goes on a drill) to knock off any old, flacky stuff and clean up the surface. These things work great! I highly recommend them! Works well at removing what it's supposed to and doesn't scratch the gelcoat when the drill gets away from you ... which happens to me regularly. I then applied one coat of cetol light, in early morning sun, and I hope from the comments of previous posters that I won't have a problem. Certainly it would look better if I had sanded down to bear wood everywhere, but I really am quite satisfied with the results, and I'd rather be sailing anyway. I'll wipe with acetone and apply additional coats as time permits this summer. Tom Monroe Carlyle Lake (Which was remarkably devoid of drunken boaters this past weekend.)
My boat came with an old, poorly maintained cetol job ... the old orange stuff. This past weekend, I used a 3M paint and varnish pad (circular, goes on a drill) to knock off any old, flacky stuff and clean up the surface. These things work great! I highly recommend them! Works well at removing what it's supposed to and doesn't scratch the gelcoat when the drill gets away from you ... which happens to me regularly. I then applied one coat of cetol light, in early morning sun, and I hope from the comments of previous posters that I won't have a problem. Certainly it would look better if I had sanded down to bear wood everywhere, but I really am quite satisfied with the results, and I'd rather be sailing anyway. I'll wipe with acetone and apply additional coats as time permits this summer. Tom Monroe Carlyle Lake (Which was remarkably devoid of drunken boaters this past weekend.)
Cetol - Goods and bads
I have about 5 years worth of the regular version on my teak toerails and trim. Not the prettiest anymore, but definetly durable. DO NOT put this product on anything you may step on as it gets extremly slippery when wet (you can add sand or some other grit if needed). I also found that if you have the rubber/synthetic beads between the wood (such as on a teak deck, Cetol has hard time staying bonded to the bead, thus does not last for this type of application. Now using Teak Wonder on my seats and swim steps.
I have about 5 years worth of the regular version on my teak toerails and trim. Not the prettiest anymore, but definetly durable. DO NOT put this product on anything you may step on as it gets extremly slippery when wet (you can add sand or some other grit if needed). I also found that if you have the rubber/synthetic beads between the wood (such as on a teak deck, Cetol has hard time staying bonded to the bead, thus does not last for this type of application. Now using Teak Wonder on my seats and swim steps.
A trick I learned...
When it's time to re-apply, "sand" with very fine bronze wool first. This removes all the ground-in dirt, scratches, UV degraded layers that are the reason Cetol starts to go opaque and "orangy" without cutting into the wood as can happen if you use sandpaper. This leaves you with a sealed surface that's as smooth and clean as a baby's cheek. Wipe down with mineral spirits or acetone, then apply TWO new coats according to directions. Your teak will keep the "first year" look forever.
When it's time to re-apply, "sand" with very fine bronze wool first. This removes all the ground-in dirt, scratches, UV degraded layers that are the reason Cetol starts to go opaque and "orangy" without cutting into the wood as can happen if you use sandpaper. This leaves you with a sealed surface that's as smooth and clean as a baby's cheek. Wipe down with mineral spirits or acetone, then apply TWO new coats according to directions. Your teak will keep the "first year" look forever.
Cetol Gloss Topcoat
This is a great thread - I appreciate all the tips! I'm happy with the Cetol job I did on my boat about a year ago. We sanded clean, then applied 3 coats of regular Cetol followed by Cetol gloss. The shine looks about 90% as good as varnish (in my book). Now that it's been a year, I'm thinking of doing a maintenance coat. Thanks to Peggy, I'll try the bronze wool. However, I wonder if I should just lightly sand and apply another coat of gloss? Does anyone have any experience with maintaining the gloss topcoat? Thanks again, Trevor
This is a great thread - I appreciate all the tips! I'm happy with the Cetol job I did on my boat about a year ago. We sanded clean, then applied 3 coats of regular Cetol followed by Cetol gloss. The shine looks about 90% as good as varnish (in my book). Now that it's been a year, I'm thinking of doing a maintenance coat. Thanks to Peggy, I'll try the bronze wool. However, I wonder if I should just lightly sand and apply another coat of gloss? Does anyone have any experience with maintaining the gloss topcoat? Thanks again, Trevor
How do you remove Cetol?
I recently used Cetol light on new hatchboards and when refinishing the tiller. I thought the Cetol Light was the browner hue but as it turns out is has an orangy hue. It looks good but unfortunately does not match the other exterior trim on the boat, which is darker and I THINK..but not sure (new boat to us) that it might be regular Cetol. I will not start over at this point but during next winer lay up I may consider starting over. So what's the easiest way to remove the multiple coats to refinish? Thanks Joanie
I recently used Cetol light on new hatchboards and when refinishing the tiller. I thought the Cetol Light was the browner hue but as it turns out is has an orangy hue. It looks good but unfortunately does not match the other exterior trim on the boat, which is darker and I THINK..but not sure (new boat to us) that it might be regular Cetol. I will not start over at this point but during next winer lay up I may consider starting over. So what's the easiest way to remove the multiple coats to refinish? Thanks Joanie
Heat gun...
Joanie, I found a heat gun and scraper was the best way to remove multiple coats. I did the whole of my 7" wide cap-rail. It took a day a side, so it is slow work. The wood was in great shape underneath. Just be careful and patient... heat until the Cetol bubbles, then lift with a scraper.
Joanie, I found a heat gun and scraper was the best way to remove multiple coats. I did the whole of my 7" wide cap-rail. It took a day a side, so it is slow work. The wood was in great shape underneath. Just be careful and patient... heat until the Cetol bubbles, then lift with a scraper.
Not necessary to do all that, Derek...
Cetol is very easy to sand off, so all you really need to do sand all the top layers off with very fine sandpaper. That leaves the wood still sealed by the original first coat eliminating the need to prep the wood again. It's the buildup of coat on top of coat, along with UV degration, ground-in dirt etc that causes Cetol to become opaque and orangy. To prevent it, before applying a new coat, "sand" the top coats off with very fine bronze wool. Don't use sandpaper...you only want to take the old Cetol OFF the wood, you don't want to get below the first coat that's sealed the wood. Wipe down with mineral spirits, and then apply TWO new coats instead of just one. Doing it this way, your teak will always keep its "first year" look...it'll never become opaque or orangy. And, it only adds a couple of hours of work to the job, 'cuz Cetol comes off very easily with bronze wool.
Cetol is very easy to sand off, so all you really need to do sand all the top layers off with very fine sandpaper. That leaves the wood still sealed by the original first coat eliminating the need to prep the wood again. It's the buildup of coat on top of coat, along with UV degration, ground-in dirt etc that causes Cetol to become opaque and orangy. To prevent it, before applying a new coat, "sand" the top coats off with very fine bronze wool. Don't use sandpaper...you only want to take the old Cetol OFF the wood, you don't want to get below the first coat that's sealed the wood. Wipe down with mineral spirits, and then apply TWO new coats instead of just one. Doing it this way, your teak will always keep its "first year" look...it'll never become opaque or orangy. And, it only adds a couple of hours of work to the job, 'cuz Cetol comes off very easily with bronze wool.
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