First post and question

[Guts1236]

Hello and thank you for letting me partake in your forum.

My username is an old nickname from my commercial fishing days (Guts) my real name is Kim and I live in San Diego California.

I have a 1978 Catalina dinette model, with a brand-new beta 25, 13 inch three blade 10 pitch prop.

I did a search for my questions and I can't seem to come up with anything I must be calling it the wrong thing in my search. When I am looking for is information on how to fix the sliding hatch as you go down the companionway. That would be the hatch that you usually have your lock on. Maybe it's the companionway hatch I have no idea what to call it in my search so I'm not coming up with any results.

My question is; how do I remove this hatch, so I can free it up so it slides easily. It looks to me as if the fiberglass of the hatch is riding on the fiberglass of the house and is creating a lot of friction. It is almost impossible to slide the hatch back when you're inside the house/cabin. Have any of you encountered a problem like this and how do you fix it? I would appreciate any help on how to remove the hatch, and how to remedy the sticky hatch problem. I'm sure I'm not the only one that has had this problem and would appreciate any help anyone could offer. Thank you very much in advance.
Kim/a.k.a./ guts 1236

 

[BioAndy]

My question is; how do I remove this hatch, so I can free it up so it slides easily. It looks to me as if the fiberglass of the hatch is riding on the fiberglass of the house and is creating a lot of friction. It is almost impossible to slide the hatch back when you're inside the house/cabin. Have any of you encountered a problem like this and how do you fix it? I would appreciate any help on how to remove the hatch, and how to remedy the sticky hatch problem. I'm sure I'm not the only one that has had this problem and would appreciate any help anyone could offer. Thank you very much in advance.
Kim/a.k.a./ guts 1236[/quote]

Welcome aboard Guts
Companionway hatch should be the proper terminology. I would try some spray SUPERLUBE on the sliding surfaces before dismantling things. Worked like a charm on my sticky sliding hatch although different boat.
Andy

 

[Jack - La Paz Mx]

This worked for me, called "glide tape". http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=214

Search under "glide tape" as there are several threads on this problem.

Welcome to the forum!

 

[Bob4203]

Welcome to the forum "Guts" where all things Catalina 30 are addressed.

The cabin hatch is held down by two strips of teak whose screws are located under teak plugs. You have to remove the plugs to access the screws to remove the teak to thoroughly inspect the sliding area. If the hatch is not sliding well, this is very rare indeed. Before going to lubricants I would probe underneath to see if anything is jammed, hanging or loose under the hatch/slide areas. If nothing is visible (get a flashlight in there), I would take the teak hold down strips off and pull the hatch out and go from there. Its warped, being bound up by obstruction or fiberglass damaged it rides on. I cannot think of much else here.

Good luck and keep us posted as well all learn here.

Bob
'88 Mark II

 

[Anonymous 121765]

Kim,

Welcome to the site. You will find great advice to your questions here as you go.
There is a wealth of experienced folks here.

I have always had trouble opening/closing my hatch. I removed it during my topsides painting, but didn't really find what the cause was aside from dirt building up.

I glued 1" wide x .030" thk. thin stainless steel mirror finish strips & it worked well...........for a time.

Now, when it starts to hang up, I carefully run hose spray while lifting each side up. keep your keep your companionway boards closed to minimize water getting inside.

Also, if when sliding the hatch, if it is dirt you should hear a roughness sound.

CR

 

[Guts1236]

I would like to thank all of you for replying to my first post, so promptly.

I feel fairly confident that it's not a dirt problem, rather friction problem. I can see where the fiberglass hatch is rubbing against the house and has worn off the gelcoat. I was thinking of using something like Jack,La Paz mentioned.

Bob 4203
That is the answer I was afraid of. My bright work there is well not so bright but in very good shape. I was hoping there was another way to get the hatch off without taking up the bright work/teak.

Is there any other way of removing the companionway hatch without removing the teak on the port and starboard side? It sure doesn't sound like there is another way other than removing the plugs in the teak.Sorry for the repetitive question I just had to ask.

I was over at the Yahoo site for Catalina 30's and Yahoo has a really hard site to navigate for me I'm not a big fan of Yahoo. This forum is more of what I'm used to using.I will keep you posted on my progress with this project.

Thank you again for your quick replies and warm greeting to the forum.

Kim a.k.a. Guts1236

 

[Bob4203]

Kim,

There might a better way to remove those teak strips. I am far from my boat right now, but if I recall when you enter the cabin and look up, the bolts the run through the teak strips are attached inside the cabin via washers and finishing nuts. Or so I think they do!! Not certaim, but check it out. If this is correct, all you have to do is remove the nuts (hope the bolts do not turn) and lift the teak. Someone let me know if I am right on this one or is it the handrail(s) I am thinking of?

If not Kim, it would not be a bad move to remove the teak anyways and fix the problem, whilst refreshing the teak and hardware. You'll slide that hatch cover several hundred times over the years and it will pay to take the time to fix it correctly.

Like they say, ..........."nothing beats messin about in boats".............

Bob

 

[Guts1236]

Thank you Bob for the reply all look when I'm down at the boat today but I don't recall seeing any acorn nuts. What about the front part of the hatch with the screws if I take them off could I slighted forward?

 

[Kingjim91]

On my '82, the teak rails are fastened with wood screws into the cabin top - no through-holes.
It's not difficult to remove the plugs, and a bag of new ones is only a few dollars.
After you put the rails back on and install the plugs, you can give the whole works a coat or two of whatever finish you like, and it will all blend in.