Hi Everyone, I'm currently re-powering my vega (#2887) with a fully rebuilt Yanmar 1GM10. I bought this engine few years ago for another boat (smaller), but never used it... So it will replace the long gone Volvo. The Yanmar will be installed with a very good prop (Campbell 3 blades 13 X 8). I try to install the engine the best I can... everything new in and out. What kind of performance can I expect ? I'd like to hear from those who actually own a 1gm10 powered Vega. Thanks a lot.JF
First hand experience with a Yanmar 1gm10 ?
- Thread starter jf_fortier
- Start date
I have one in my Vega, unfortunately I have nothing to compare it to since it is my first sailboat. I can tell you it shakes at low RPM which is annoying, but everything else seems OK. I have a 3 blade prop and it will drive the boat 5kts on a calm day with a little power left in reserve. I don't push it. I regularly have 20 foot tide changes in my area, so sometimes getting out of the narrow mouth of my marina is a challenge due to current, but have always been able to make headway. It fits nicely into the engine compartment and everything is easy to access. Other bigger sailboats that I have been on as a passenger with twin cylinder Yanmars seem to run much smoother.
I installed a 1GM10 in my MK1 Vega more than 20 years ago and it's still going strong.My top speed with a clean hull is a bit over 5 knots.The engine can sometimes be slow to start, but it hasn't let me down yet. I'm still running with the original equipment - pumps, alternator, valves, exhaust elbow, and so on. All I've done is change the anode, oil and filter occasionally.A couple of seasons ago the power seemed to be down a bit, but I replaced the zincified propeller with a new 13x10 and seems to be as good as new again.AlisdairV752
We put a 1gm10 in over 20 years ago. Works fine in these Maine waters can have strong currents and choppy. I needed to add a lift pump to get diesel from bilge fuel tank to engine. In smooth waters 5-5.5 knots. Normal maintenance issues
No regrets on purchase.
If I ever decide to repower I would probably a 13 hr Beta. Sometimes I have felt slightly underpowered but not desperatedly.
Paul halvachs
Double Fantasy
No regrets on purchase.
If I ever decide to repower I would probably a 13 hr Beta. Sometimes I have felt slightly underpowered but not desperatedly.
Paul halvachs
Double Fantasy
Hi Paul, Thanks for your input. Indeed the lift pump is mandatory. My brand new mechanical one can't lift diesel from a jerry can less than 2 feet below the engine (on a bench)... pathetic! Question: Was you Yanmar install on the original Volvo "beds" ? Mine will be so it's tilted 15* toward stern which is okay according to Yanmar install documentation. But, the beds are also tilted 12* to starboard which put the oil pickup almost in the higher spot of the oil sump. Imagine motor-sailing on the port tack, heeling a few degrees to starboard... The engine become quite tilted. Is it problematic ? JF
JF
It was over 25 years ago. We were at the start of a three month cruise when the original engine failed and I replaced the engine in the middle of summer in Florida (shirt wringing wet in 30 minutes) so the information is seen through that haze of time and temperature.
I do not remember a tilt in the rails.
I remember I was not happy with the fore/aft alignment and removed the layer of fiberglass that covered the steel plate that are embedded in the in the engine supports. Then drilled and tapped new holes for the feet of the flexible engine mounts. Possibly you have a different series boat?
I was not as scientific as you. I just used a string to align. Remember I was on a cruise and had access only to the tools that I normally carried for a cruise hand tools and a 3/8 electric drill that I pretty fried drilling through the plate steel.
I did install a "Drivesaver" (flexible hard rubber spacer between shaft and engine to allow some misalignmment) made by Globe marine. I must have done something right because I have only replaced the stern bearing once.
I would probably use some sort of spacer below the starboard feet to level the engine mounts. I think the flexible engine mounts also have a an adjustment. The boat is covered by 2 foot+ of snow so I can't confirm that.
Good luck.
Paul
It was over 25 years ago. We were at the start of a three month cruise when the original engine failed and I replaced the engine in the middle of summer in Florida (shirt wringing wet in 30 minutes) so the information is seen through that haze of time and temperature.
I do not remember a tilt in the rails.
I remember I was not happy with the fore/aft alignment and removed the layer of fiberglass that covered the steel plate that are embedded in the in the engine supports. Then drilled and tapped new holes for the feet of the flexible engine mounts. Possibly you have a different series boat?
I was not as scientific as you. I just used a string to align. Remember I was on a cruise and had access only to the tools that I normally carried for a cruise hand tools and a 3/8 electric drill that I pretty fried drilling through the plate steel.
I did install a "Drivesaver" (flexible hard rubber spacer between shaft and engine to allow some misalignmment) made by Globe marine. I must have done something right because I have only replaced the stern bearing once.
I would probably use some sort of spacer below the starboard feet to level the engine mounts. I think the flexible engine mounts also have a an adjustment. The boat is covered by 2 foot+ of snow so I can't confirm that.
Good luck.
Paul
My shaft was rubbing on the upper surface of my shaft log when I purchased the Vega. I removed the engine mount brackets one at a time and milled slots in the (mount to engine interface) bolt holes so I could adjust the height of the engine without removing any of the shock mounts or grinding away any of the boats mount material. I was able to lower the engine by a 1/4" and realign the shaft closer to the center of the shaft log. So far so good but I would still like to buy a flexible shaft coupler (expensive).