It is time for my first engine (2GMF) oil change on my 85 H31. Before I start the job I just wanted to verify: 1. Crankcase oil is the same as engine oil? 2. Should the crankcase oils be changed as well? 3. Is 15W40 oil good for hot climate ?(i.e. Florida, So. California) 4. Anything I should watch for before I start the job? Thanks.
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D. Grosz
Oil Change No Problem
Please note: 1. Engine and crankase oil the same 2. Change oil filter when changing oil (use only Yanmar filter) 3. Use 30W engine oil made for diesel engines. You can find at West Marine or other boat outfitters. Do not overfill. Good luck Dan H 33.5
Please note: 1. Engine and crankase oil the same 2. Change oil filter when changing oil (use only Yanmar filter) 3. Use 30W engine oil made for diesel engines. You can find at West Marine or other boat outfitters. Do not overfill. Good luck Dan H 33.5
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Michael O'Mara
Oil changes
I now use a little oil changing motorized pump available at Boat U.S. for under $20 bucks. You can do it alone, but I recommend having a friend there to hold the container that the "old" oil is going into. Be prepared for a little mess, no matter how careful you are, if it can get out-it will. Warm up your engine before you change the oil to make the job much easier. When you change the oil filter (and yes, only use Yanmar filter!)put some into the filter before you install it. Also, smear a film of oil onto the filter gasket before you install the new filter. Don't dump the old oil in the nearest trash bin. You know where it should go! Good luck.
I now use a little oil changing motorized pump available at Boat U.S. for under $20 bucks. You can do it alone, but I recommend having a friend there to hold the container that the "old" oil is going into. Be prepared for a little mess, no matter how careful you are, if it can get out-it will. Warm up your engine before you change the oil to make the job much easier. When you change the oil filter (and yes, only use Yanmar filter!)put some into the filter before you install it. Also, smear a film of oil onto the filter gasket before you install the new filter. Don't dump the old oil in the nearest trash bin. You know where it should go! Good luck.
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Tim
DIFFERENT OPINION
Rafi: I have a slightly different view of oil changes: 1. I change the oil every 50 hours or 2x/year whichever is less. Overkill, but I feel better! 2. I use one of the "vacuum" systems. Start the engine, run it for 15 minutes to warm the oil, and then let it suck up the oil. 3. I then pour 1 qt of 5W30 diesel grade oil into the engine and run it for about 10 minutes. That will move any "old" oil into the sump. I once again vacuum out the oil. 4. I ALWAYS change the filter (but I use a FRAM filter - forgot the exact #, but it is a perfect replacement for the Yanmar and costs a fraction of theirs) with each oil change. 5. Refill with just under 2 qts of new 5W30 oil. I use the rest for the transmission. In 15 years of use I've tried just about every oil changing system around and I've found this to be the best for me. Note: I know the Yanmar book specifies 30 weight oil, but that book was written years ago for one and it just makes sense to me to have a multi-weight oil to allow use in differing temperatures. The bottom line is to change your oil and filter frequently, however you decide to so it. Smooth sailing! Tim ("TIDE")
Rafi: I have a slightly different view of oil changes: 1. I change the oil every 50 hours or 2x/year whichever is less. Overkill, but I feel better! 2. I use one of the "vacuum" systems. Start the engine, run it for 15 minutes to warm the oil, and then let it suck up the oil. 3. I then pour 1 qt of 5W30 diesel grade oil into the engine and run it for about 10 minutes. That will move any "old" oil into the sump. I once again vacuum out the oil. 4. I ALWAYS change the filter (but I use a FRAM filter - forgot the exact #, but it is a perfect replacement for the Yanmar and costs a fraction of theirs) with each oil change. 5. Refill with just under 2 qts of new 5W30 oil. I use the rest for the transmission. In 15 years of use I've tried just about every oil changing system around and I've found this to be the best for me. Note: I know the Yanmar book specifies 30 weight oil, but that book was written years ago for one and it just makes sense to me to have a multi-weight oil to allow use in differing temperatures. The bottom line is to change your oil and filter frequently, however you decide to so it. Smooth sailing! Tim ("TIDE")
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Bryan C.
Steps
On my 3GM, there is no oil drain plug (that I'm aware of) and you have to pump the oil out thru a tube inserted into the dipstick hole. I also have one of those $20 electic pumps which works ok. As previous posts have mentioned, do not use "regular" oil made for autos, the oil must be rated for diesel engines. Usually will say so on the oil can, and be marked with SAE codes of CD and CE (someone correct me if I got these wrong). ( I use Delo 400 (from Chevron?) diesel rated oil is 15-40, (maybe 10-40) (blue bottle). From what I have read, multi-grades are superior, but the Yanmar manual says SAE 30 and I'm not an expert) To change: 1) Warm the engine up (reduces the viscosity) 2) Insert the tube of your oil pump into the dipstick hole and pump out the oil (or however you remove the oil from your engine). I use an old plastic milk bottle for storage until disposing in the proper place. 3) Remove the old filter. Might need a filter wrench (tool with flexible strap for removing oil filters, also works on the fuel filters if you have the screw on type). 4) Put on the new filter, lubing the rubber seal with fresh oil as mentioned in previous post. Hand tighten only -- only need about 1/4 turn after you feel resistance. 5) Put in new oil. Run engine. Check oil level again. Check for any leaks. Once you do it once it's easy, and your engine will be happy.
On my 3GM, there is no oil drain plug (that I'm aware of) and you have to pump the oil out thru a tube inserted into the dipstick hole. I also have one of those $20 electic pumps which works ok. As previous posts have mentioned, do not use "regular" oil made for autos, the oil must be rated for diesel engines. Usually will say so on the oil can, and be marked with SAE codes of CD and CE (someone correct me if I got these wrong). ( I use Delo 400 (from Chevron?) diesel rated oil is 15-40, (maybe 10-40) (blue bottle). From what I have read, multi-grades are superior, but the Yanmar manual says SAE 30 and I'm not an expert) To change: 1) Warm the engine up (reduces the viscosity) 2) Insert the tube of your oil pump into the dipstick hole and pump out the oil (or however you remove the oil from your engine). I use an old plastic milk bottle for storage until disposing in the proper place. 3) Remove the old filter. Might need a filter wrench (tool with flexible strap for removing oil filters, also works on the fuel filters if you have the screw on type). 4) Put on the new filter, lubing the rubber seal with fresh oil as mentioned in previous post. Hand tighten only -- only need about 1/4 turn after you feel resistance. 5) Put in new oil. Run engine. Check oil level again. Check for any leaks. Once you do it once it's easy, and your engine will be happy.
Do's and Don'ts
1. Do run your engine first. It will make the oil flow easier for pumping out the tube. 2. Do not use multi grade only. It is "really" only the lower viscosity. That is why they recommend the higher viscosity. Delo400 30wt is what you want to use (2 liters or 2 quarts - check the dip stick after the second qt.) other 30wt diesel rated oil will do. 3. Do not use other filters. They do not have the proper check valves internally. 4. Do change the transmission while you are at it. It takes 1/3 liter or 1/2 qt. This only needs to be done when the oil becomes discolored but for .50 worth of oil who cares. I disagree with trying to save money by purchasing Non-Yanmar oil filters. These engines cost too much to allow anything to happen to them. What I gave you was straight from my Yanmar guys mouth (no shit, just the facts). Diesel engines run at much higher temp. and pressures than a gas engine. We change ours every year but usually only put on 50-70 hours. If you are changing oil, it probably time to change the fuel filters too.
1. Do run your engine first. It will make the oil flow easier for pumping out the tube. 2. Do not use multi grade only. It is "really" only the lower viscosity. That is why they recommend the higher viscosity. Delo400 30wt is what you want to use (2 liters or 2 quarts - check the dip stick after the second qt.) other 30wt diesel rated oil will do. 3. Do not use other filters. They do not have the proper check valves internally. 4. Do change the transmission while you are at it. It takes 1/3 liter or 1/2 qt. This only needs to be done when the oil becomes discolored but for .50 worth of oil who cares. I disagree with trying to save money by purchasing Non-Yanmar oil filters. These engines cost too much to allow anything to happen to them. What I gave you was straight from my Yanmar guys mouth (no shit, just the facts). Diesel engines run at much higher temp. and pressures than a gas engine. We change ours every year but usually only put on 50-70 hours. If you are changing oil, it probably time to change the fuel filters too.
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Don
Steve, didn't you meant to say
Diesel engines run at a much LOWER temperature and pressure than a gasoline engine? Or have I been in space all this time - the engine water does not get nearly as hot or high a pressure a car, right?
Diesel engines run at a much LOWER temperature and pressure than a gasoline engine? Or have I been in space all this time - the engine water does not get nearly as hot or high a pressure a car, right?
Don, I am stickin' to it.
Don: The compression ratio is somewhere around 22:1 on the Yanmar and the exhaust temps are around 2200 degrees. A gas engine is only 8 or 10:1 and I am not sure about the exhaust. The reason that a boat will run cooler is that you have a constant supply of very cool water running through the engine all the time. On our autos we are dealing with a radiator that may or may not be in good shape with a recirculating system. When we are not getting good air flow through the radiator, what happens, we overheat quickly. With our constant cool water supply we do not have this problem unless we get something in the raw water intake. This is part of the reason that you need to run your Yanmar at higher RPMs to keep enough water going through the elbow so the exhaust soot does not coke up the elbow.
Don: The compression ratio is somewhere around 22:1 on the Yanmar and the exhaust temps are around 2200 degrees. A gas engine is only 8 or 10:1 and I am not sure about the exhaust. The reason that a boat will run cooler is that you have a constant supply of very cool water running through the engine all the time. On our autos we are dealing with a radiator that may or may not be in good shape with a recirculating system. When we are not getting good air flow through the radiator, what happens, we overheat quickly. With our constant cool water supply we do not have this problem unless we get something in the raw water intake. This is part of the reason that you need to run your Yanmar at higher RPMs to keep enough water going through the elbow so the exhaust soot does not coke up the elbow.
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terry dornan
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william
non-detergent in tranny?
this seems to be a hot topic, so here goes..... I always learned to use a non-detergent oil in the gearcase, as a detergent oil in that application may foam and cause a loss of lubrication at high rpm's....any thoughts on SAE-30 NON-detergent in the gearcase? (although Yanmar Service manual says "same lubricating oil as crankcase"_)
this seems to be a hot topic, so here goes..... I always learned to use a non-detergent oil in the gearcase, as a detergent oil in that application may foam and cause a loss of lubrication at high rpm's....any thoughts on SAE-30 NON-detergent in the gearcase? (although Yanmar Service manual says "same lubricating oil as crankcase"_)
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Roger Mummah
My H31 2GMF 20 step oil change procedure
Hi, I once posted "20 Steps I Follow to Change the Crankcase Oil In Our Yanmar 2GMF Diesel". This procedure details what stuff to gather before starting the job, how to do it, where to sit and how to reduce the mess. The procedure assumes the use of a hand pump, but people who are smart enought to have a Hunter are clever enough to adapt it. I don't know how to put an attachment on the HOW form. I'd be glad to email the procedure to anyone who wants. It is fine tuned to the H31, like how do you do this job from a small access under the galley sink? As far as what oil to use - I would check with the local Yanmar expert and see what they recommend. remummah@worldnet.att.net
Hi, I once posted "20 Steps I Follow to Change the Crankcase Oil In Our Yanmar 2GMF Diesel". This procedure details what stuff to gather before starting the job, how to do it, where to sit and how to reduce the mess. The procedure assumes the use of a hand pump, but people who are smart enought to have a Hunter are clever enough to adapt it. I don't know how to put an attachment on the HOW form. I'd be glad to email the procedure to anyone who wants. It is fine tuned to the H31, like how do you do this job from a small access under the galley sink? As far as what oil to use - I would check with the local Yanmar expert and see what they recommend. remummah@worldnet.att.net
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Jerry
OK time for some common sense
First - diesel exsaust temperature is a bit cooler than a gasoline engine - it has nothing to do with a water lift exhaust - that's just to keep the rubber/plastic components from melting. Two - Fram filters work just fine - there are no check valves in filters any more (cut one open sometime !!) the valves - if any - are in the oil pump and their only purpose at ANY time was to bypass the filter element when it became too clogged to supply the bearings with an adequate supply of oil. Three - Of course the Yanmar guys want you to buy their filters - they cost more and the profit margin is higher !!! There seems to be this belief that diesels were inventerd for sailboats and anything afterward was just a side-efect (they weren't and it isn't) The ONLY reason diesels are used on boats is because the fuel has a much higher flash/ignition (pick a term) point and that lowers the probability of a small (or large) explosion. Sorry, I don't mean to sound callous or cynical BUT I am tired of the idea that ANYTHING on a boat has to come from a marine supply house or it is some way inferior (the general aviation industry is the same way - Cessna will insist that I MUST use Cessna parts - things like PAINT ????? !!!!!) or something BAD may happen !!!!!. Good Heavens folks - wake up - If you're independently wealthy and can afford to not care 'what it costs' fine, but most of us can't do that. I will agree that you would probably have to work at 'changing the oil' too often. Jerry
First - diesel exsaust temperature is a bit cooler than a gasoline engine - it has nothing to do with a water lift exhaust - that's just to keep the rubber/plastic components from melting. Two - Fram filters work just fine - there are no check valves in filters any more (cut one open sometime !!) the valves - if any - are in the oil pump and their only purpose at ANY time was to bypass the filter element when it became too clogged to supply the bearings with an adequate supply of oil. Three - Of course the Yanmar guys want you to buy their filters - they cost more and the profit margin is higher !!! There seems to be this belief that diesels were inventerd for sailboats and anything afterward was just a side-efect (they weren't and it isn't) The ONLY reason diesels are used on boats is because the fuel has a much higher flash/ignition (pick a term) point and that lowers the probability of a small (or large) explosion. Sorry, I don't mean to sound callous or cynical BUT I am tired of the idea that ANYTHING on a boat has to come from a marine supply house or it is some way inferior (the general aviation industry is the same way - Cessna will insist that I MUST use Cessna parts - things like PAINT ????? !!!!!) or something BAD may happen !!!!!. Good Heavens folks - wake up - If you're independently wealthy and can afford to not care 'what it costs' fine, but most of us can't do that. I will agree that you would probably have to work at 'changing the oil' too often. Jerry
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Sam Lust
Sorry Guys
>>>>> But Steve is wrong on this one. To start, Diesel engines DO NOT run hotter than Gas. They run at the same nominal, thermostat regulated 160 or so degrees. While momentary internal burning temp may be higher in a diesel (although I don't remember it being so) the cylinders on both are cooled by incoming air charge. The difference? Diesel is unthrottled and always, ALWAYS pulls in a FULL charge of cooling air. To proove it to yourself, on the next 10 degree below zero day run your engine up to operating temp (under load) and then let it idle. You WILL NOT be able to keep it up at operating temp. Yanmar's current recommendation for the engines; "GM" series is 15W40. For internal lubrication there is simply nothing better. The additive package that makes it a multi grade enhances viscosity and lubricity at operating temperature. ie: it has the lubricating characteristics of a 40 weight oil, but cold flow characteristics of a light viscosity oil. (Faster starting due to less oil induced drag) Simply, as the oil gets hotter, it works better. You'll never see me using a single grade oil in the engine. The trans is a different story. It doesn't need the enhanced characteristics. it just needs the slipperyness and CUSHIONING effect of a gloppy single weight. Oil filters? HUMBUG!! (I've always wanted to say that!) Consumer's Reports years ago proved that the manufacturer's filters were the worst. Fram, Hastings, NAPA and the lot were all better filters. As far as the "valve" is concerned, it's just a check valve to keep the filter full of oik when the engine is shut down. If you pre-lube before starting it's a moot point. A friend of mine hack-sawed a Yanmar and a NAPA filter apart and internaly they were IDENTICAL. Yanmar and their dealers are a conservative lot and want you to buy their parts. I know; I worked for a distributor some years ago. Bottom line? Change oil and filter at least once a season. Use just about any name brand oil ( I've always been partial to and had good results with Castrol. About a buck a can on sale at K-Mart.) with the latest API classification rating (CC, CD, CF, or whatever it's up to by now) and you'll do fine.
>>>>> But Steve is wrong on this one. To start, Diesel engines DO NOT run hotter than Gas. They run at the same nominal, thermostat regulated 160 or so degrees. While momentary internal burning temp may be higher in a diesel (although I don't remember it being so) the cylinders on both are cooled by incoming air charge. The difference? Diesel is unthrottled and always, ALWAYS pulls in a FULL charge of cooling air. To proove it to yourself, on the next 10 degree below zero day run your engine up to operating temp (under load) and then let it idle. You WILL NOT be able to keep it up at operating temp. Yanmar's current recommendation for the engines; "GM" series is 15W40. For internal lubrication there is simply nothing better. The additive package that makes it a multi grade enhances viscosity and lubricity at operating temperature. ie: it has the lubricating characteristics of a 40 weight oil, but cold flow characteristics of a light viscosity oil. (Faster starting due to less oil induced drag) Simply, as the oil gets hotter, it works better. You'll never see me using a single grade oil in the engine. The trans is a different story. It doesn't need the enhanced characteristics. it just needs the slipperyness and CUSHIONING effect of a gloppy single weight. Oil filters? HUMBUG!! (I've always wanted to say that!) Consumer's Reports years ago proved that the manufacturer's filters were the worst. Fram, Hastings, NAPA and the lot were all better filters. As far as the "valve" is concerned, it's just a check valve to keep the filter full of oik when the engine is shut down. If you pre-lube before starting it's a moot point. A friend of mine hack-sawed a Yanmar and a NAPA filter apart and internaly they were IDENTICAL. Yanmar and their dealers are a conservative lot and want you to buy their parts. I know; I worked for a distributor some years ago. Bottom line? Change oil and filter at least once a season. Use just about any name brand oil ( I've always been partial to and had good results with Castrol. About a buck a can on sale at K-Mart.) with the latest API classification rating (CC, CD, CF, or whatever it's up to by now) and you'll do fine.
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Bryan C.
But do use diesel rated oil
I think Sam's post was a little unclear for people unfamiliar with oil ratings. The "C" in the CD, CF etc. ratings means (I believe) "compression" (ie diesel) engines. I do believe that a deisel runs at a higher compression (the compression causes the ignition rather than a spark from a spark plug) than an gas engine. So when Sam says buy any brand name oil I am sure he means a diesel rated oil. It will say so somewhere on the can (or bottle, these days.)
I think Sam's post was a little unclear for people unfamiliar with oil ratings. The "C" in the CD, CF etc. ratings means (I believe) "compression" (ie diesel) engines. I do believe that a deisel runs at a higher compression (the compression causes the ignition rather than a spark from a spark plug) than an gas engine. So when Sam says buy any brand name oil I am sure he means a diesel rated oil. It will say so somewhere on the can (or bottle, these days.)
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Bryan C.
Tip on removing oil filter.
Sometimes, if the old filter was tightened on too tight, they can be damn tough to get off. If you can't get it loose with a filter wrench, you can drive a big screwdrive thru the center of it and get leverage to turn it loose that way.
Sometimes, if the old filter was tightened on too tight, they can be damn tough to get off. If you can't get it loose with a filter wrench, you can drive a big screwdrive thru the center of it and get leverage to turn it loose that way.
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Thorp
I'm with Sam on this one
I couldn't have put it any better... You get the gold star for the day. However, if you are running in hot weather straight 40 weight works better, it doesn't dilute as easy. 15W works best when trying to start in cooler climates. I'll bet Yanmar just likes to keep it as simple as they can, it won't really make a difference either way. You'll never wear out your engines, but most people ruin them by not running them enough. Always bring the engine up to operating temperature before you put a load on it (to minimize blow by) and never shut it off until it's hot (condensation problems).
I couldn't have put it any better... You get the gold star for the day. However, if you are running in hot weather straight 40 weight works better, it doesn't dilute as easy. 15W works best when trying to start in cooler climates. I'll bet Yanmar just likes to keep it as simple as they can, it won't really make a difference either way. You'll never wear out your engines, but most people ruin them by not running them enough. Always bring the engine up to operating temperature before you put a load on it (to minimize blow by) and never shut it off until it's hot (condensation problems).
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Eric
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