Finishing soles - how to make them not slippery

[SFS]

I'm finally starting the replacement of the soles in my H31. I'll be using plain marine plywood, stained (water or alcohol based) to approximately the color of teak, then encased in multiple coats of West Systems epoxy on all sides and edges. I'm willing to install them at that point and be done, but I suspect (as do the folks at West Systems) that the epoxy will be slippery.

So, what do I use for topcoating that wont be slippery? The admiral likely won't allow paint (though I will check again). Research through the archives indicates that many of the best options (Ultimate Sole, Gymseal, etc) are no longer made.

1) Is there a currently available product, that can be applied over epoxy, that will not be slippery?
2) If I have to add something to a finish as a non-skid, what do you suggest? (I've read about using ground walnut shell powder.)

 

[Gunni]

Yes, after properly multi-coated with epoxy the sole surface will be as smooth and slippery as glass. Yacht paint.com sells a product called InterGrip which is sprinkled on wet epoxy giving it a non-skid surface. You then topcoat to seal the grip particles into the surface.

 

[thinwater]

I would throw on a couple coats of varnish to keep the UV off the epoxy (yes, even below decks). There are things you can add, but a heavy sprinkling of salt in the last coat is my favorite. Mask off a few areas, like edges, so that the gloss still shows.

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

I've used model railroad ballast sand. Finest they sell. I have it on the captains ladder in my house and it has held up for years.

sprinkle it onto either wet epoxy (or varnish, then when it cures, roll on another thin coat to seal it. Can't see it through the coating

 

[Brian S]

I have heard, but not tried, that one can sprinkle granulated sugar onto a final coat of varnish. When dry, wash off the sugar leaving a stipple pattern for non-skid.

 

[SFS]

I like all those options, and will investigate them further. Intergrip I can get down the street at a yard.

What current varnishes are UV protecting and easy to apply? After reading the older threads, I got all excited about Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane, but the specs specifically say not recommended for decks/soles. I want something that can be touched up in place when it starts to show wear.

 

[woodster]

satian helmsman spar varnish works very well

 

[rgranger]

I used to use a lot of urethane products but I don't anymore. Urethane products leave a thin plastic coating over the wood. Looks GREAT and keeps that nice wet look. It is also water proof-ish. But eventually it starts to come off in flakes. Especially on any wood exposed to sun. The explanation I've read is that when the sun beats down on the wood, any moisture in the wood evaporates and forms a "blister" under the plastic that lifts it off of the wood. Then you have to sand the whole dang thing down. A true varnish has some ability to breath so you don't get this blistering effect. And a touch up on varnish usually involves a light sanding, some wipe up with a lint free rag and a few fresh coats. You usually don't have to sand all the way to bare wood like you do with urethanes.

Just my 2 cents and if I'm being 100% honest... lately I've started migrating to Trex whenever it is applicable. Even less work and no maintenance.

 

[Brian S]

What current varnishes are UV protecting and easy to apply? After reading the older threads, I got all excited about Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane, but the specs specifically say not recommended for decks/soles. I want something that can be touched up in place when it starts to show wear.

I say you can go with anything that is marine: Epifanes, Interlux, Petit. For ease of application, I find that Le Tonkinois Nr. 1 is very easy - it's oil and resin, with no solvents, so it doesn't stink up the house, and maintains an easy wet edge. Nr. 1 is supposed to be harder and have more UV resistance. www.tarsmell.com

That Minwax may say it's not intended for decks and soles, probably because it will be slippery. Wet varnish is slippery. So are wet decks. Keep in mind Minwax is mostly a non-marine consumer brand, so maybe that's why they are telling the average non-mariner consumer. You know, lawyers and such... But we are suggesting options to make varnish NOT slippery.

Another option for non-skid varnish is to mix in ground walnut shells. Sprinkle on wet varnish, vacuum off excess when dry, then add 2 more coats of varnish. Apparently will make aggressive non-skid that looks better than hardware store sand non-skid additive.

 

[Jacktar]

Try skid no more, latex based with rubber granules, not too expensive and lasts really well, water based, easy to apply and touch up at wear spots and is very non skid. Admiral might go with paints as alternative to falling on fundamental principles in sea way.

 

[thinwater]

The advantage of salt is that there is nothing to sand off (the salt is washed out leaving textured surface--super easy to refinish) and there is no grit walking around the cabin.

 

[SFS]

I've ordered some powdered walnut shell, and will test that, along with salt, on a couple of coupons before making a final decision. I was considering skipping a varnish, but I think the UV protection will be worthwhile. Thanks woodster.

I'll use the Minwax Helmsman spar urethane. With a drying time of 4 hours, I can get a third coat on in one day, letting it dry overnight.

 

[All U Get]

Anyone try using a roller when the surface is still tacky? I have a friend that did the non-skid on his deck like that. It made the entire surface rough with thousands of small peaks. Then when dry he used sandpaper in one direction only to round the sharp peaks that the roller made in the finish. Wet or dry his deck was non-skid.

All U Get

 

[Gunni]

Kiwi Grip is for top decks. SFS is doing a clear interior sole finish. I was recently on a boat where the owner had DIY'd SeaDek, looked great and my boat shoes stuck really well. With existing raised diamond non-stick a glue-down non-skid will be my option.

 

[All U Get]

I thought years back someone had posted a sole project where he had used gloss varnish and then taped strips where he had used satin. Maybe I saw it at the Wooden Boat Show here in Maine. There's always plenty of gloss at the boat show. Alas, we don't get back from the south in time for the show anymore.

All U Get

Did a search for "bowling alley" and found a couple of nice projects.

 

[NYSail]

Use to be a product called ultimate sole..... Great varnish that was non slippery. Company went out of business but stuff really works and is extremely durable!

 

[Chief RA]

Sand. Chief

 

[MattObjects]

On our prior boat, we replaced the cabin sole with marine ply, stained it to look like teak, coated it in epoxy, then coated it with Helmsman polyurethane to protect the epoxy from UV rays. That made for a pretty slick surface so the last step was to tape off the surface, leaving gaps between runs of tape that would be stripes running down the sole from bow to stern. After the tape was in place, we coated the stripes between the tape with more polyurethane, then sprinkled ultra fine sand purchased from US Composites over the wet polyurethane. We then carefully removed the tape. Once the polyurethane was dry, we used a soft brush and shop vac to remove any loose sand, and then put two more coats of polyurethane over everything.

That resulted in non-skid stripes down the cabin sole that were slightly lighter in color than the stained wood beneath, sort of reminiscent of the look of a traditional teak and holly sole. These stripes gripped wet shoes but were not uncomfortable on bare feet. We had the boat for 5 years after completing that project and the cabin sole looked as good the day I sold the boat as it did the day I finished it.

We used the same technique for the treads on the mahogany companionway ladder I built for that boat. It worked well there also.

 

[SFS]

Update: I am making progress on both the first section of sole, and on the test coupon for the anti-skid options. We will be deciding tomorrow which way to go, walnut shells, or salt with the grains removed afterward.

My current question: What methods are available to spread these materials relatively evenly? I didn't care too much on the test panel, but there are quite a few areas where the particle density is a LOT higher than other areas, and that is a visual problem, especially with the walnut powder.

I thought of a sieve, but I only have one, and the openings are much too big to be useful. Ideas?

 

[jibes138]

How about a pepper mill where you turn the crank?