Finally started...And new name

Chris

.
Jan 24, 2016
5
Irwin 37 Green cay, St. Croix
Finally... After a wedding (oh, did I mention I got married this past December)...After a spring with constant rain....Then a sudden heat wave with heat indices into the hundreds...After an unhealthy obsession with Morrowind (a computer role playing game).... I finally realized what was really holding me back from finishing the boat...fear that I would mess it up. However, I have finally decided what to do with the thru-hull holes, and better yet, I have started work.

Although, installation of a fixed head is far down on the list, and could possibly never happen, I decided not to fill those holes and to put new thru-hulls and seacocks on them...just in case. This would also allow me some practice before tackling the engine cooling hole. Taking Steve Birch's advice, I finally decided to use a rough round file and a half circle file to widen the new holes. A quick plea to the powers that be..."Please don't let me screw this up"...and I started in on it. Fifteen minutes later, I wondered why I waited so long? The head intake was too small to use the half round file, so I started with the round file. That got the hole big enough that the half round file would now fit. I finished the job with the half round file. Although the round file could have been used for the whole job (pun not intended), It was easier for me to make the hole nice and circular and smooth by switching to the half round file. Before my new found confidence could start to erode, I went ahead and filed out the engine cooling hole.

Question: Currently the engine cooling and head intake hole are just large enough for the 3/4" Marelon thru-hull to fit. Do you think I should make the hole slightly larger to allow for sealant around the thru-hull?

I decided to fill the sink intake hole. I will not want to use "sea" water while cruising the Chesapeake Bay. If I ever make it offshore, then a bucket seems just as easy as pumping the sink. If I change my mind later, then I will tap off either the toilet input or engine input, since both of those will be twice a large as they were before. So I took a scrub brush and washed the inside and outside around the sink intake hole. I washed a large area on the outside to remove dirt and loose old bottom paint so that tape would stick better. I let the hole dry and used the round file to rough it up a bit. From the inside, I put a slight bevel on the hole, the idea being that this would help prevent the epoxy plug from being punched out, if the bond should fail, plus this slightly increases the surface area for the epoxy to bond. I used Acetone to further clean things and to remove any remaining moisture. I used some dewaxer on the hole, which not only claims to remove any wax, but etches the fiberglass for a better hold on paint. I took a piece of acrylic and put a heavy coat of wax on one side. I waxed the outside of the hull, below the hole in case any epoxy runs developed. I taped the acrylic over the hole. The acrylic drooped slightly and did not make good contact where the hole was, so I ended up using some scrap lumber to wedge the acrylic in place. I placed the wedge below the hole, so the acrylic would make a nice curve across the hole without deforming and being pushed into the hole. So tape on the top edge above the hole and a wedge below the hole. I went inside the boat and mixed up some West System with 404 filler. I filled the hole. Hopefully, the acrylic will be easily removed and not have become a permanent fixture.

To keep the plug from being punched in and to further strengthen the repair, I will be covering the repair, on the inside, with a layer of fiberglass cloth. So that will be the next step, while I make my backing blocks for the seacocks. Backing blocks will be shaped and then coated with 2 coats of West System.

Now for the name. I saw no evidence of a previous name on the boat. I toyed with the idea of stealing Vinfalle from the first boat, V265. But I made the mistake of suggesting (not seriously though!), that I should follow the local fisherman's tradition and name it after my wife. Well that idea caught fire with the first mate and there was no going back. However, we both agreed that her middle name was a better candidate. So introducing......

Chris and Janice
V-2933 Renee
Solomons, MD
USA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi

Congratulations, once started it's not too bad....

When you finish off the saltwater intake for the sink make sure you cover the inside with at least four layers of fibreglass mat. Starting at about 2inches square then getting bigger with each layer. Use plenty of resin and make sure it is all wetted in. Well done.

Steve Birch
 
Feb 6, 2011
253
Hmm... I was thinking the epoxy/404 would be good enough and was planning to
just put a single layer of cloth down. But I will err on the side of safety
and do as you suggest. Do you think I would have to grind down to fit the
four layers? Or can I just rough up the surface and build the 4 layers up
into a mound? Since this repair will be under the seat, out of view,
cosmetics are not that much of an issue.

By the way, the acrylic came off just fine, and the repair feels nice and
smooth on the outside. No fairing necessary.
Thanks
Chris
 
Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi Chris

I did exactly the same thing with my saltwater inlet and even with four layers of mat it hardly comes up at all. The final size of the fourth mat was about 8 x 3 inches. As you say it is not seen but better safe than sorry.

Regards

Steve B
 
Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi

In a perfect world I agree but it is only a half inch hole. The repair will
last as long as the boat I'm sure.

Regards

Steve B

At 05:48 14/07/03 -0400, you wrote:
 
Jun 7, 2001
13
I'm with you on this one David. Water pressure and shock loading of a slam
must be arranged to push any plug tighter into the hull not the other way round. Regards Colin V1400 "Naim"
 
Oct 31, 2019
562
Hi;
I give my 5 cents worth to that subject. Don't be afraid and open the
existing hole- even if that means
you grind (or ream) out another 1/4 or 1/2 inch- just be sure the
opening in the hull exposes "good"
fiberglass. Make also sure you clean (grind) the inside very good.
I used a wax-paper covered piece of plywood on the outside, tightly
fitted, and filled the hole from the inside
with fortified fiberglass epocy.
What the repair looks like on the inside is of no concern, the outside
is smooth and most likely need little
attention but to paint.
I've done this to my head (waste) and outside water intake (sink) some
20 years ago and it's okay.
Wilhelm, V-257

Chris wrote:
 
Apr 30, 2000
197
I just can't resist - I plugged the old engine intake throughull with a 3/8
silicon bronze carriage bolt and 3M 5200. It's going nowhere. Bill Bach
V1071
 
Oct 30, 2019
36
I have actually heard something that may satisfy all points of view....
Bevel both the inside and out side of the hole before plugging it. This way
even if the bond fails the plug will be mechanically captured and can not
fall out. Being an engineer this concept made perfect sense to me and I
have applied it in several other areas of my job.

Rich
S/V Prelude II