Bottom line up front, we got the ports (4) into the boat on Saturday with very little fanfare or problems. I did learn to NEVER USE DUCT TAPE! When we removed the ports last Sep I cut plastic sheeting and covered the holes and secured with duct tape. It took us 1.5 hours on Saturday with a heat gun, plastic putty knife, and most of a can of spray Goof Off to get rid of the duct tape residue – never again!
Actually installing the ports was the easiest part of the entire process with removing the ports being the most difficult. Our boat is an 86 28-2 and has Beckson ports. Matt at Beckson’s is a great source of information and is very patient and detailed in explaining how to install the ports. In case anyone else out there is considering it, here are the basic steps:
- Remove the old ports and toss the nuts, bolts, etc.
- Epoxy the outer decktop, liner, and plywood interior together – this keeps them from moving independently and breaking the seal.
- Clean the old silicone completely. On the exterior we scrapped, used auto rubbing compound, and then wiped with either Acetone or MEK.
- Buy the barrel nuts developed by Beckson – not cheap, roughly a buck each. Bolts you need are 10 x 24; we used ¾” on all but 4 holes and used ½” on those. The barrel nuts go in from the outside – we used those fancy washers (forget the name) that are sort of decorative and stand slightly proud of the frame. For the 4 bolts that were ½” – these were used directly over the opening lens as the washer would not fit – we used just the bolts without washer.
- Once the cleaning is done, dry fit the ports and take a look at the clearance around the port (outside); it should be pretty even and there should be enough room for the silicone to get in and seal. I had to file in several places as the fit was tight here and there and pretty large in other places, guess the guy who cut the opening wasn’t all that precise.
- I then drilled each hole out with a ¼” drill and used a countersink bit to countersink each hole so the barrel nut would fit flush.
- We put the trim ring over each port and used blue painter’s tape to tape around the outside – then we used a foam brush to paint dishwashing detergent where we didn’t want the silicone to stick – Matt said the tape wasn’t needed, after all the time we spent scrapping silicone off I couldn’t resist.
- With Lorie inside and me outside, I used a syringe and put some silicone – (the recommendation is silicone and I bought Dow 795 from Beckson’s – for the 4 cabin ports I used almost 2 full tubes) around each screw hole (outside). We got the screw started and Lorie tightened from the inside. We put in all four ports and then used the caulk gun to get the silicone into the space around the port (no sealant on the inside of the boat, nor any adhesive – I wish Pearson has used the no adhesive scheme!) – then ran a double bead of silicone on the trim rings and installed the trim rings – tapping and pushing to get a good seat and seal. Let it cure (still there) and then we plan to run a box cutter (gently) around the trim ring and remove the blue tape and all excess silicone.
When I ordered the replacement ports I just replaced what was there – a deadlight for the 2 forward ports (45 degree angle on the last few inches on the forward end); and a combination with opening lens for the aft 2 ports. Had I looked around more, and looking back, I would have bought a combination to replace the 2 forward deadlights – they do come angled at the front. Oh well, maybe in 26 years I’ll consider it.
If anyone has any questions I would be happy to post, email, or talk with you.
Jim
Actually installing the ports was the easiest part of the entire process with removing the ports being the most difficult. Our boat is an 86 28-2 and has Beckson ports. Matt at Beckson’s is a great source of information and is very patient and detailed in explaining how to install the ports. In case anyone else out there is considering it, here are the basic steps:
- Remove the old ports and toss the nuts, bolts, etc.
- Epoxy the outer decktop, liner, and plywood interior together – this keeps them from moving independently and breaking the seal.
- Clean the old silicone completely. On the exterior we scrapped, used auto rubbing compound, and then wiped with either Acetone or MEK.
- Buy the barrel nuts developed by Beckson – not cheap, roughly a buck each. Bolts you need are 10 x 24; we used ¾” on all but 4 holes and used ½” on those. The barrel nuts go in from the outside – we used those fancy washers (forget the name) that are sort of decorative and stand slightly proud of the frame. For the 4 bolts that were ½” – these were used directly over the opening lens as the washer would not fit – we used just the bolts without washer.
- Once the cleaning is done, dry fit the ports and take a look at the clearance around the port (outside); it should be pretty even and there should be enough room for the silicone to get in and seal. I had to file in several places as the fit was tight here and there and pretty large in other places, guess the guy who cut the opening wasn’t all that precise.
- I then drilled each hole out with a ¼” drill and used a countersink bit to countersink each hole so the barrel nut would fit flush.
- We put the trim ring over each port and used blue painter’s tape to tape around the outside – then we used a foam brush to paint dishwashing detergent where we didn’t want the silicone to stick – Matt said the tape wasn’t needed, after all the time we spent scrapping silicone off I couldn’t resist.
- With Lorie inside and me outside, I used a syringe and put some silicone – (the recommendation is silicone and I bought Dow 795 from Beckson’s – for the 4 cabin ports I used almost 2 full tubes) around each screw hole (outside). We got the screw started and Lorie tightened from the inside. We put in all four ports and then used the caulk gun to get the silicone into the space around the port (no sealant on the inside of the boat, nor any adhesive – I wish Pearson has used the no adhesive scheme!) – then ran a double bead of silicone on the trim rings and installed the trim rings – tapping and pushing to get a good seat and seal. Let it cure (still there) and then we plan to run a box cutter (gently) around the trim ring and remove the blue tape and all excess silicone.
When I ordered the replacement ports I just replaced what was there – a deadlight for the 2 forward ports (45 degree angle on the last few inches on the forward end); and a combination with opening lens for the aft 2 ports. Had I looked around more, and looking back, I would have bought a combination to replace the 2 forward deadlights – they do come angled at the front. Oh well, maybe in 26 years I’ll consider it.
If anyone has any questions I would be happy to post, email, or talk with you.
Jim