Final Easy (Yeah Right) Step in my rewiring of my H34.

PGIJon

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Mar 3, 2012
856
Hunter 34 Punta Gorda
I was finally down to the last step of my rebuilding my H34 12v power. It was a simple task. I wanted to replace the 12 AWG wiring that went from the A/B/Both switch to the DC Power panel with 8 AWG. Simple, right… use the existing wire to pull the new one through. After pulling the wire about three quarters of the way through, I hit a snag. No matter what I did I was stopped in my tracks.

I decided that I needed to investigate what caused the blockage. The wire runs from the engine forward towards the bilge and from there turns to port and go in the (not sure what it is called) the raised channel that runs athwartship to and exits at the underside of the navigation table, the up and over to the DC panel.

I was unable to find a good viewing area so I decided I needed to drill. I removed the piece of teak that covers that athwarship channel (see picture) and cut a 2” diameter hole in the middle of where the teak sits. First problem I ran into is there was fiberglass on top of the channel. See Pic… so only half of the hole was exposed. I took pictures to both starboard and port. To starboard. This area must be the source of the foul water that finds it’s way into the real bilge. Nasty isn’t a word. I sucked out about a gallon or so of this water. I’m sure there is more down there… I also noticed that someone, PO, zip tied the wires for the Power Panel and bilge together under the sole. The PO turned out to be my nemesis. Could hunter have done that when they first built the boat???? Anyway… To Port I found a pipe hanging from a zip tie… I have no idea what this is….. Maybe a conduit.

(3rd Picture should be rotated 90 degrees counterclockwise.)

I gently inserted my arm into the new 1/2 exposed 2” hole. I couldn’t reach to where the wires were zip tied together. I’ll need to make the whole just a bit bigger… OK.. just remove my arm…. OK just remove my arm… OK.. relax the muscles and remove my arm… OK…I’m stuck. I have pictures of the cities rescue department using their jaws of life to separate the hull from sole.. or to make wide slashing cuts to the boat with their Supersize Sawzall! I finally extracted my limb after about 5 minutes with only a minimum of blood.
I cut out another 1/2 a 2” hole and used my oscillating tool square it up. I was able to reach, slide the zip tie towards the opening and cut it with wire cutter. The rest was simple. I was going to run a messenger but in the excitement of getting it free, I totally forgot to do it.

Anyway, about 3 hours into my final step, the 8 AWG wire is now in place and the voltage drop has significantly been reduced. Now for some single malt pain killer.

BTW, I use some butyl tape around the hole to seal the smell from permeating into the cabin when I replace the piece of teak wood.
 

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Jan 22, 2008
1,670
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
I also noticed that someone, PO, zip tied the wires for the Power Panel and bilge together under the sole. The PO turned out to be my nemesis. Could hunter have done that when they first built the boat???? Anyway…

(3rd Picture should be rotated 90 degrees counterclockwise.)
Yes, Hunter bundles all the wires together and zip ties them and screws the zip ties to a surface prior to assembly. All over the place including down the sides behind the eyeball lamps and the 120 Volt receptacles. That is why I invested in a 25 foot long electrician's fish tape to avoid that hassle. Actually, its still a hassle but less blood involved And I have run a messenger line as well, but that seems to always get stuck when it makes a turn and wedges in that gap between the hull liners and hull.

By the way, here's what happened when a guy drilled a hole in the structural member on his boat. Okay, it probably won't happen to yours, but maybe limit your holes to smaller ones. I always worry about those giant holes between the holding tank and the head.
 

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Feb 26, 2004
23,093
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
And I have run a messenger line as well, but that seems to always get stuck when it makes a turn and wedges in that gap between the hull liners and hull.
Happened to you, too? :doh:

I thought that when I ran a messenger line, under the CLEAR, UNLIMITED, UNRESTRICTED, COULD ALMOST SEE THROUGH IT, area under my engine, that it'd work.

I think that there's this "thing" that says messenger lines get "hung up" more than an 18 year old on LSD! :eek::eek::eek:
 
Jan 22, 2008
1,670
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
Happened to you, too? :doh:

I thought that when I ran a messenger line, under the CLEAR, UNLIMITED, UNRESTRICTED, COULD ALMOST SEE THROUGH IT, area under my engine, that it'd work.

I think that there's this "thing" that says messenger lines get "hung up" more than an 18 year old on LSD! :eek::eek::eek:
I forgot to mention, I bought a fish tape, and a pet ferret. That sucker can fit through anything. :D
 

PGIJon

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Mar 3, 2012
856
Hunter 34 Punta Gorda
Yikes! So, is this a structural thing I drilled through? Has anyone else ever drilled a hole there? I suppose I can glass it. Any suggestions? I like the pet ferret idea.
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,117
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Interesting!.. On my 85 model, That panel feed wire was run aft under the bunk board to the port side then forward through the cabinet and then up to the panel.. I didn't pull the old one out, just added a 10 ga in parallel .. and marked it well.
That member channel is in compression on its top surface, so if you still have the original plug, you could just epoxy it back into the hole(s) and it would be fine..Picture the water on both sides pushing the arms of that beam together while the keel pulls down in the middle to think about what that beam has to do. There is no need to fully glass it in since the plug would be being squeezed port to starboard and as long as there is epoxy to transfer the load well to the plug, you'd be OK..

EDIT: The wires are mostly held in place by gobs of butyl sealant.. A slow steady pull will usually get em to slide through the gob of still-sticky butyl..
 

PGIJon

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Mar 3, 2012
856
Hunter 34 Punta Gorda
Thanks Claude.. Great explanation! I still have the plug so it should be relatively easy to epoxy it back in. Earlier I called Hunter to see what they would say... haven't head anything back. I'll pick up some epoxy later today! Thanks again.

BTW, I preferred the run through the stringer since the distance was shorter.
 
Aug 22, 2014
43
Hunter 40 Corpus Christi
Allan,

I like that idea, pull a fish through and the ferret runs after it. Brilliant! :D
 
Jun 6, 2004
78
- - Port Stanley
Just like to share with you how I fish wires in my boat. I use a fiberglass fish tape, wire coat hangers and a Bore Scope. https://www.google.ca/search?q=bore...v&sa=X&ei=nlUIVbD3CcW3yASRrILwAQ&ved=0CFAQsAQ I use a F/G fish tape because it has a rounded end that will not get hooked on anything unlike the wire fish tapes. I also tie a loop with string about 3" in Dia. to the end of the fish tape. this makes it a little easier to hook with the wire coat hanger. I use the bore scope to insert in small holes to see where the end of the fish tape is and to help in hooking it with the hanger. If I need to drill a hole it is only 3/8 to 1/2" in dia. to insert the B/S, which doesn't hurt the structural integrity.
Just like to add that you should re-fiberglass the large hole you drilled. I you just epoxy the blank back into the hole you will not get the strength you are looking for.
Here is a link that should help. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/repairing-machined-holes-in-fiberglass/
Happy & Safe sailing
Doug