Filling water tank with shore connection?

[hdhr289]

Is there a reason (other than cost) that Hunter or other boats do not normally provide a means on newer boats for using the pressurized shore water connection to fill the water tank? I am thinking of installing a bypass from the pressure side of my water system to connect into the supply line that feeds the water pump from the water tank. Other than ensuring that the tank ventilation is functioning properly to avoid pressurizing the tank when filling, any reason not to do this?

While in our slip we typically rely on a garden hose to supply pressurized water into the boat's freshwater system from the public water supply on the dock. We connect the garden hose to the connector on the transom (the water fill port on deck and tank are located at the bow). With the shore water connection, we do not need to run the onboard water pump saving the water in the on board tank and wear/tear on the pump. We turn the garden hose on while onboard in the slip and turn off/disconnect when away in case an on board line were to fail and go unnoticed. While the pressurized shore water is connected to our boat, the onboard water pump has an antiback flow device that keeps the pressurized shore water from flowing back into the supply line preventing the filling/overflow of the on board tank.

My plan is to install a section of water line with a valve to allow the pressurized shore water to bypass around the pump/antibackflow and flow into the tank. Before leaving our slip on a cruise I will open the bypass valve to top off the onboard fresh water tank. I will close the bypass valve when the tank is full. While away from our slip, we will obviously be disconnected from the shore water supply and will use the onboard pump and water from the tank.

Other than the concern for pressurizing/rupturing the tank when filling, is there another reason this type of setup is not standard on new boats?

 

[woodster]

If you are going to disconnect the presser hose any way why not fill the tank through the deck fill at that time


Regards

Woody

 

[seadaddler]

Safety

I thnk for safety reasons mostly or who knows maybe cost affect,have seen many bigger boats with direct hookup.
I do know that on my motor home with direct hookup I almost over filled my plastic tank and almost ruptured the tank a few times so I think I like not having
a direct hose hookup.
Nick

 

[Erieau]

hdhr289,
This past spring, I did exactly what you are suggesting.
No regrets, works like a champ.

 

[bugaloo]

I did mine with a ball valve and have had no problem and really like it Makes life simple;

 

[Mulf]

I understand your idea but...

if you (hdhr289) do it the way you describe, what's to keep the dockside water from filling up the tank and then continuing to pump water out the tank vent forever?

Sorry, I reread your post and I see that you would be controlling the filling of the tank with a valve so you could fill but not overfill.

 

[Bill Roosa]

Pretty sure that is a possibility Mulf. My impression is that hdhr would appear to be smart enough to turn the valve off once the tank is full .

 

[Don Lucas]

I'm against ever having the dock water connected to the boat. I use the boats water pump for pressure and use the boats tanks and just refill as needed. It isn't exactly a lot of work to fill the tanks via the deck fills and I don't have to worry about sinking my boat with the shore water system.

 

[Q22]

I do this with my RV and it works good.I take the cap off of my fill tank when it overflows I know it's full.When I would fill with the tank fill it would try to overfill with the water going in and out the same hole.

On my RV I put a line in that uses the Shur Flow pump to pick up water from a water jug or auxiliary tank and pumps it into the RV tank.I use this a lot on my RV but couldn't tell you if it has a use in sailboats.

 

[glonek5]

Our 2005 38 has the connection on the starboard aft. Under the sink is the valve.
Perhaps you can use similar parts to reconfigure yours?
Good luck
Bob

 

[Steve Dion]

I do think that the plumbing on most sailboats was ever designed for the pressure that is delivered from municipal water systems.

You may want to check the archives and check out the subject.

 

[splax]

This is a great modification for dockside water service, provided the boat plumbing is sufficient and doesn't leak.
I am trying to figure how to run a white water hose to the pressurized side of the system with a valve cut-off to isolate the supply hose when not in use.
Since the primary purpose is underway service, using the on-board tanks and pump may be the best choice for those not spending a majority of boat time at the dock.

 

[StinkBug]

pretty much every motorhome is plumbed in this way, or in a similar manner to allow using city pressure instead of the pump, and the plumbing inside them isn't much different on the supply side of things. Pretty much any RV supply place will have in-line pressure regulators to put on your hose so that you dont over pressurize the system when running on shore supply.

My RV plumbs the city hose into the pressure side of the pump so that you can switch between city pressure and pump pressure without doing anything but switching the pump on or off. When you want to fill the tank you have to operate a couple valves to redirect the flow.

 

[DougM]

It's easy enough to put a check valve in the water line after the pump to prevent back flow into the water tank. Add a tee fitting to the existing line and one of the RV type fill ports. You then have a pressurized system. Be sure to have a pressure regulator somewhere in the line. I have seen occasions where municipal water system pressure can blow fittings apart and flood the boat.
I would vote for filling the tank through the deck fill rather than a bypass valve. It's just safer that way.

 

[Brezzin]

I'm against ever having the dock water connected to the boat. I use the boats water pump for pressure and use the boats tanks and just refill as needed. It isn't exactly a lot of work to fill the tanks via the deck fills and I don't have to worry about sinking my boat with the shore water system.

Don I'm with you on this one. Water in the tanks can get stale so I like to use it and refill regularly from dockside.

 

[artboas]

I did exactly this

Is there a reason (other than cost) that Hunter or other boats do not normally provide a means on newer boats for using the pressurized shore water connection to fill the water tank? I am thinking of installing a bypass from the pressure side of my water system to connect into the supply line that feeds the water pump from the water tank. Other than ensuring that the tank ventilation is functioning properly to avoid pressurizing the tank when filling, any reason not to do this?

While in our slip we typically rely on a garden hose to supply pressurized water into the boat's freshwater system from the public water supply on the dock. We connect the garden hose to the connector on the transom (the water fill port on deck and tank are located at the bow). With the shore water connection, we do not need to run the onboard water pump saving the water in the on board tank and wear/tear on the pump. We turn the garden hose on while onboard in the slip and turn off/disconnect when away in case an on board line were to fail and go unnoticed. While the pressurized shore water is connected to our boat, the onboard water pump has an antiback flow device that keeps the pressurized shore water from flowing back into the supply line preventing the filling/overflow of the on board tank.

My plan is to install a section of water line with a valve to allow the pressurized shore water to bypass around the pump/antibackflow and flow into the tank. Before leaving our slip on a cruise I will open the bypass valve to top off the onboard fresh water tank. I will close the bypass valve when the tank is full. While away from our slip, we will obviously be disconnected from the shore water supply and will use the onboard pump and water from the tank.

Other than the concern for pressurizing/rupturing the tank when filling, is there another reason this type of setup is not standard on new boats?

On my 49 there is a manifold with switchable valves. I used one of the spare valves as the tank fill function.
You need to watch the tanks like a hawk when doing this. The plastic on these tanks is very thin, and you can easily rupture a tank if the vent has any back pressure at all.
So, go ahead. & do this. Just watch the tanks very carefully.

 

[BrianH]

Don I'm with you on this one. Water in the tanks can get stale so I like to use it and refill regularly from dockside.[/QUOTE

I agree totally with using only the tanks and not connect to the dockside water. I had (2) 80 gallon tanks on my 44 Hunter and wanted to keep the water in them fresh, so we never hooked up to the pressurize dock system.

 

[Old Skool Neil]

I think this sums it up:

pretty much every motorhome is plumbed in this way, or in a similar manner to allow using city pressure instead of the pump

Not much of an endorsement in my opinion. The risk of a system breach won't destroy your Winnebago. If I were an insurance adjuster I'd deny any claim of sinking due to municipal water pressure as gross negligence. You knew the risk, you chose to take the risk, now the consequences are all yours. It's unconscionable to me that West Marine even sells municipal water inlets.

I dunno about the rest of y'all but my boat is not a floating motorhome.

 

[Ron20324]

Off course, there IS a benefit to connecting an unlimited shore-side water source to your plumbing.... you'll find out which clamps and hoses are weak. Then you can fix them right after you pump out the boat. :dance:

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I'd guess that racer/cruiser types would prefer to keep their tanks empty most of the time, so the argument for always having full tanks while at the dock doesn't necessarily fly. There is no reason for a boat to not be plumbed to the same standard (or better) than your house is plumbed, so why not do it as proposed? Municipal water pressure shouldn't be a problem, and I'm actually surprised about those thinking that a plastic tank will burst under municipal pressure. 80 psi would be on the high side. Are you telling me that a plastic tank can't handle 80 psi? But it's vented anyway, so it's just not going to be an issue. With all the friction losses, I'd be surprised if most marinas could have pressure any greater than 40 psi (particularly out at the docks with the small lines they run out there) unless they just happen to be near a storage tank or a booster pump in town.