I'm in the process of replacing my holding tank and want to move the thru hull to the other side of the boat. I've never filled a hole of this size before and would appreciate any advise from those who have??? Thanks, Ron/KA5HZV
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Found these Ron.
Might be worth ordering the magazine: http://www.diy-boat.com/ Then SEARCH with "plug hole". http://www.sailnet.com/collections/articles/index.cfm?articleid=ddcksn0465(in Related Link) It also references another article.
Might be worth ordering the magazine: http://www.diy-boat.com/ Then SEARCH with "plug hole". http://www.sailnet.com/collections/articles/index.cfm?articleid=ddcksn0465(in Related Link) It also references another article.
dID YOU think about leaving it?
Ron: Did you think about leaving it alone. This is the easy way out and you could just put some mineral oil in the valve and cap it off. The oil will prevent any corrosion and you will NOT need to worry about the PATCH!!! If you leave it in place, you may want to wire it closed with a wire tie or something to prevent an uninformed person from trying to open it (even if it is capped).
Ron: Did you think about leaving it alone. This is the easy way out and you could just put some mineral oil in the valve and cap it off. The oil will prevent any corrosion and you will NOT need to worry about the PATCH!!! If you leave it in place, you may want to wire it closed with a wire tie or something to prevent an uninformed person from trying to open it (even if it is capped).
Steve
Ed and I dicussed that on the phone the other day. It sounds reasonable, but I was wondering, if maybe the patch wasn't a lot of trouble it might be better to have one less thru hull to worry about??? And, Ed, thanks for the mag info.... Ron
Ed and I dicussed that on the phone the other day. It sounds reasonable, but I was wondering, if maybe the patch wasn't a lot of trouble it might be better to have one less thru hull to worry about??? And, Ed, thanks for the mag info.... Ron
I Left Mine
Last year I abandoned a thru-hull by capping it. The oil is a good idea. Every time the boat is out of the water, I exercise the valve. A capped one is a very low risk and not worth hauling the boat to remove and patch the hull.
Last year I abandoned a thru-hull by capping it. The oil is a good idea. Every time the boat is out of the water, I exercise the valve. A capped one is a very low risk and not worth hauling the boat to remove and patch the hull.
IIt aint that tough .....
....and it's the `right way to go. Gougeon Brothers (West Epoxy system) publishes an excelent set of booklets covering all you need to know. I've filled 4 holes in my hull left by moved through hulls. No particular problems. No worries about the unused valve. Study the techniques and do it. Remember: if the valve isn't there it can't get damaged and sink your boat.
....and it's the `right way to go. Gougeon Brothers (West Epoxy system) publishes an excelent set of booklets covering all you need to know. I've filled 4 holes in my hull left by moved through hulls. No particular problems. No worries about the unused valve. Study the techniques and do it. Remember: if the valve isn't there it can't get damaged and sink your boat.
Cosmetic versus structural restoration
This issue has been discussed before. Cosmetic restoration is easy enough (just follow the booklets). However, restoring the hull to anything close to it's original strength so one does not need to fear losing the new plug during a grounding or other type of catastrophic hull flexing event is quite a different job that requires beveling the hole out at a shallow angle (i.e. removing a lot more fiberglass) and then trying to restore the hull structure (whatever that may be) layer by layer while carefully avoiding to create a hard spot that cannot flex with its surroundings. Yes it is true that the throughull also created a hard spot but a proper throughull is carefully engineered and broadly flanged to minimize the chance of breaking or popping out. IMHO, there is indeed something to be said for removing the seacock next time the boat is out of the water but leaving the throughull in place if it is structurally sound (on Rivendel II all throughulls are bronze) and capping it off with a bronze plug (preferably secured with some type of locking pin or lashing). Flying Dutchman "Rivendel II"
This issue has been discussed before. Cosmetic restoration is easy enough (just follow the booklets). However, restoring the hull to anything close to it's original strength so one does not need to fear losing the new plug during a grounding or other type of catastrophic hull flexing event is quite a different job that requires beveling the hole out at a shallow angle (i.e. removing a lot more fiberglass) and then trying to restore the hull structure (whatever that may be) layer by layer while carefully avoiding to create a hard spot that cannot flex with its surroundings. Yes it is true that the throughull also created a hard spot but a proper throughull is carefully engineered and broadly flanged to minimize the chance of breaking or popping out. IMHO, there is indeed something to be said for removing the seacock next time the boat is out of the water but leaving the throughull in place if it is structurally sound (on Rivendel II all throughulls are bronze) and capping it off with a bronze plug (preferably secured with some type of locking pin or lashing). Flying Dutchman "Rivendel II"
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