Fiddle Block-Replace or Repair?

[Ed H]

One of my winter projects is to repair or replace the main sheet fiddle block. The top pulley (is it a sheave?) is completely crumbled down to an irregular shaped nub. But it looks like the fiddle block sides are not removable- maybe just large rivets? Is it repairable? If I have to replace it, what "working load" size is needed for a 1981 Hunter 33? Thanks. Ed H

 

[Ed Schenck]

Ed, check Garhauer prices for fiddle blocks. I think drilling the rivets and finding sheaves to fit might cost as much. I replaced mine early on with Garhauer.

 

[Jim Legere]

Rebuilding blocks

I rebuilt all the blocks on my boat 7 or 8 years ago. The originals were Merriman (long out of business) but I found Schaffer sheaves would fit. Here's how: Grind or file off the head on one side of the rivet and drive rivet out with a pin punch; Remove the old sheave and save the bronze axel bushing; Get some 1/4" SS round bar (or other suitable size SS rod) for new rivets; Cut the SS stock to ~ 1/8" or less longer than the width of the block; Insert new sheave, old bushing and new rivet into the block; peen over ends of new rivet stock to form head on each side of block (using a good solid piece of steel as a backup when peening rivet with a ball peen hammer); clean up rivet heads with file as required and lube the block with your fav spray. If you are handy with tools this is not a big job. Sheaves are $5 - $8 a piece compared to $50 - $100 per block. My rebuilt blocks have performed flawlessly for 7+ years in up to 40+ knots of wind.

 

[Steve Dion]

I'm with Ed! Check out Garhauer.

 

[Benny17441]

I'm with Ed, replace but if you decide to rebuild it is easier to take a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the rivet head and drill it out.

 

[rardiH36]

All my main sheet blocks are now low friction ball bearing types = a huge ease of effort improvement over the older tech nylon sheave blocks like our original Merrimans'. So I like the already made suggestions to consider replacing with a Garhauer (or other brand) block. The Harken website I know has a section that helps with determining the correct load/size for any given application.

That said, I have a few times given several old blocks a second life by rebuilding. First step as already described is drill/drive out the riveted sheave pins. Then after a good cleaning, mine went back together by using SS bolts as the replacement sheave pins with SS lock nuts to tighten up. I select a bolt length that has the smooth un-threaded shank section being just shy of the total width of the block. Then the too-long threaded part of the bolt is cut off to be relatively flush with the nut. I came across a supply of almost new nylon sheaves at one point. So doing rebuilds was very cost effective.

The blocks are working fine and I expect they will for quite a few more years. But also the rebuilds are a lot of work to get right again. And the blocks are well past their prime. Also when you get the old block apart, you might find its condition a bit suspect because of galvanic corrosion where stainless steel has been in contact with the aluminum side plates. I used some electrical tape between the SS strap pieces and the Al plate to hopefully stop continuing corrosion.

I utilized my rebuilt main sheet fiddle block as part of a new boom vang system. Its the one in the upper right in pic attached. Now painted black. Old tech blocks work fine for this application because boom vangs don't require a lot of run-out and they aren't being constantly adjusted when sailing. Still can't figure out how my 36' sailboat made it through several PO's over 27 years (boat age when I purchased) without a boom vang!

 

[Ed H]

While in principle I prefer to repair, I do not have many of the tools mentioned. So I will get a Garhauer. Thanks. Ed H

 

[rardiH36]

Hi Ed H:

Just another thought -- Since your mainsheet block(s) hanging off the boom bail have presumably always has been protected by the sail cover, probably it/they are still OK. But while doing a new fiddle block, maybe think about doing the boom block(s) too for a matching set? As I included in my last post, when I changed to roller bearing blocks, the improvement in the main sheet ease-of-effort was very noticeable. Also in very light wind, previously there was enough block friction that I often had to pull the main sheet slack so the boom would run out when changing course from say a close haul to a beam reach. With the ball bearing blocks, the line will run out on is own with only the light pressure of the wind on the sail. Nice ... but it's certainly not a necessary mod.

 

[Ed H]

Hey Rardi- That is not a bad idea. But I think I will wait until Spring to see how the sailboat fund looks when I finish up all of my winter projects. I also like your idea of just drilling out the old one and replacing with ss bolts for a spare. I will keep my eye old for some sheaves. Ed H