Fiberglas repair epoxy, evercoat

Status
Not open for further replies.

geehaw

.
May 15, 2010
231
O-day 25 shoal keel Valdez
Well I am about to start a repair on cracked transom from hitting rock. I have a couple questions. (1) .West System says to start layering with patch the size of th repair and work to a small cloth size till it is filled. Don Casey's book says to start with small patch and work up to a large patch till filled.
Is this just the difference between epoxy and polyester type resins? (2) And the other question is the only thing available locally is Evercoat Fiberglass Resin. Just wondering if anyone has had experience with it?
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
I had a large gouge repaired on my boat a few years back. It was about 18"-24" long and about 1/4" - 3/8" deep. The first thing the guy did was to grind out the area (enlarged to approx 3" x 30"). He started with small pieces for cloth/resin and layered these up to the appropriate level and let it cure. Then sanded it to the proper level before he applied the new gelcoat to the area.

When he was done there were no indications of a repair ever being made.

Total cost $300 and 5 hrs of my time watching him do his magic!
 
Dec 11, 2010
486
MacGregor 26x Hayden AL
Just my opinion, I am a rank amateur....
I would start with the big layer first because it gives the most area of adhesion to the old fiberglass. The later smaller layers will 100% bond with the first big layer. If you went from small to big, each layer would have a small outline that attached to the original hull, and IMHO make the bond weaker. I.E. you want the most adhesion to make the strongest bond. Either way will make an equally tough patch, big to small will just adhere to the old surface better...? I just finished a repair on my own boat and was originally of the notion that the small pieces go on first so the hole was filled and level to the outside surface. I did some reading which changed my mind to big then small. and my repair still came out level with the surface.
 

CalebD

.
Jun 27, 2006
1,479
Tartan 27' 1967 Nyack, NY
I just looked at the MSDS specs of Evercoat fiberglass resin. It is a polyester resin mostly intended for auto body work. With that said most production boat hulls are made from polyester resins from the mold. You can use this product to repair your boat but ...
Epoxy resins are normally used for repairs as epoxy has a higher adhesive quality then polyester. Epoxy resins are also more expensive than polyester which is one reason why boat builders use it.
Good luck.
 

RichH

.
Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
My usual method is a combo of both - large patch at first then working smaller, and if needing cosmetic fairness on the last patch .... from midway then increase the size of the patches ending with a large patch.
I use epoxy exclusively for patch work for better bond strength.

Dont forget to 'taper' the patch 20:1 is probably the minimum for stress bearing or structural repairs. Eg.: if laminate is 1/4" thick, then 20 X .25 = 5" WIDE (minimum largest) patch, per 'edge'.
 
Jun 9, 2008
1,792
- -- -Bayfield
Most boat builders do not build boats with epoxy resins because it is too expensive (unless it is a cedar stripped canoe, etc.). Boat builders use polyester resins (usually isothalic in nature) and some use vinylester resins, which are an epoxy modified resin. The early sailboats were made with orthothalic resins (also polyester) and after some time they realized they were more susceptible to blisters. So, that is why they went to isothalic. When I do fiberglass repairs - especially above the waterline, I usually use polyester resins and Evercoat polyesters are fine for marine use. Epoxy is very expensive in comparison to polyesters, but it is very waterproof, so it is good for underwater repairs and also adheres to metals and wood better (flexes better with wood). Epoxy has a compatibility problem with gelcoat. Polyester does not. So....my suggestion is to use polyester resin in most of your repair jobs. It is also good under the water line if you put an epoxy water barrier paint over it. And, below the waterline alone, I think you will find it will hold up quite well. I have repaired more boats than I can count with polyester resins and have used more gallons of the Evercoat product than I could ever count. Polyester will cure quicker than epoxy too, so your job can get done faster.
As far as the actual repair goes, I need to know more about the damage, but basically you want to use a lot of cloth or mat and properly wet down the fabric with resin so that you get good penetration. Your strength comes from the fabric. If you use too much resin and not enough fabric, you will compromise the repair strength. You can use Evercoat polyester putty to smooth out your repair prior to the gelcoat finish too. They make bondo for cars (usually red) and they make a marine formulation (usually an off white). Use the marine because red is harder to cover up with white gelcoat. Also, don't use too thick of putty as it has little strength in comparison to the cloth/resin matrix. Too thick of putty will eventually crack. It's like using concrete without rebar.
If money is no object and you go with epoxy, be aware that measuring must be exact between resin and hardner (per mfg recommendations) while not so critical with polyester (but try to stick to the directions). Also epoxy is not good for you and you must protect your skin and lungs from breathing it. If you get senstitized to epoxy you will not be able to go in the same room with it while polyester is not like that at all. Always wear gloves, etc. and don't let epoxy touch your skin. It will take a while to get senstitized, but if you do, you will regret it big time.
If your hull was built with vinylester (which it wasn't), then I am saying that using vinylester resin is a good idea. Some mfg's will use vinylester under the waterline for blister prevention. Rarely will you find a composite boat built of epoxy unless it is a very expensive high tech performance vessel, etc.
 

geehaw

.
May 15, 2010
231
O-day 25 shoal keel Valdez
Well thanks for that info. Good I will go with evercoat then. I just hadn't seen it mentioned on any forums so was a bit concerned. My rudder and outboard hit a rock and must have flexed the transom. It cracked starting at the rub rail and over the top of the transom and down to the inboard corner of the seat in the cockpit. I feel kind luck more damage wasn't done. Bent the lower hinges on the rudder a little and crack about a 2'' triangle on the leading edge of the rudder. And thanks Bill for the indepth answer.!!!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.