I have my 31 foot Irwin sailboat in my backyard on trailer. I would like to do fiberglass work under my keel. The boat is sitted by the keel and 6 cradles. Can I lift the boat with a crank and let it supported only by the cradles ?? May be I should add more cradles ????
Fiber glass work under keel
- Thread starter blueberry
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The majority of the weight is going to be on the keel. In many cases, the hull can't support the weight of the boat out of the water. By cradles, I'm guessing you're actually talking about boat stands. I would recommend that you not try to lift the boat by using the jack screws on the boat stands. The chance of the boat shifting and falling over is relatively high, and the boat stands aren't really designed to support the boat without the bulk of the weight on the keel.
Not to put too fine a point on the question but this falls into the class of "if you have to ask, then the answer is DON"T TRY IT!" You will have about one ton of boat on each stand. At the very least you will distort the hull and at the worst you will kill yourself with a falling boat.
I am presuming that you wish to work between the keel and the keel stub.
I am presuming that you wish to work between the keel and the keel stub.
A better idea
My lifter Angie at York River Yacht Haven in Gloucester Point VA ingeniously places key blocks discreetly under the keel so I can paint nearly 90% of it. The keel is fully supported for sure, but remains exposed enough to reach under for scraping and painting. Ask your yard.
My lifter Angie at York River Yacht Haven in Gloucester Point VA ingeniously places key blocks discreetly under the keel so I can paint nearly 90% of it. The keel is fully supported for sure, but remains exposed enough to reach under for scraping and painting. Ask your yard.
If I would have listened to all of this advice a number of boats in my past wouldn't have gotten repaired. I'd recommend getting a couple of more boat stands and crank the boat up. If you see deflection in the hull or hear cracking, reposition the stands until you can get the keel off the ground. Put blocks under as much of the keel as you can and get to work. Whenever possible, set the keel on blocks, don't leave it off the keel for any extended period of time. If the keel is long, you should be able to keep at least one or two blocks under it all the time. If it is short, put some shores at both ends of the keel, making sure to distribute the loading.
Also, dig a trench under the keel if necessary.
Also, dig a trench under the keel if necessary.
If that's what you plan then grease the jack screws well. Make certain that the stands are on a very firm foundation, don't take more than a half turn per screw at a time and work your way around the boat lifing as uniformly as you can.
Personally I'd pay the yard to lift it, fix it in the slings or to block it high so I could get at it. Your keel (is it shoal or deep? many 31's had shoal keels) is probably wide enough to allow strategic blocking to gain access if you need to work on the bottom of it.
A trench sounds good if you can get it off the trailer and your Wife will let you dig up the yard LOL.
Could you provide some detail about what you are trying to fix?
I'd be wary of lifting this boat (or any large boat for that matter) off its keel on stands, although I respect what Snotter has to say too. From what I have read the smaller Irwin's have a reputation for less than overbuilt hulls. I have read of issues with separation of the grid from the hull on another 31.
A trench sounds good if you can get it off the trailer and your Wife will let you dig up the yard LOL.
Could you provide some detail about what you are trying to fix?
I'd be wary of lifting this boat (or any large boat for that matter) off its keel on stands, although I respect what Snotter has to say too. From what I have read the smaller Irwin's have a reputation for less than overbuilt hulls. I have read of issues with separation of the grid from the hull on another 31.
Use 4x4s or 6x6s underneat the boat stands so they don't bury into the earth. Keep your eyes open when cranking. Fiberglass hulls do not fail without warning; besides, stop cranking if you see indentation at the pads, bring the boat down, and reposition the stands until you find a bulkhead to prevent the indentation. If you are going to get the keel up (no trench underneath), make sure the stands are big enough. Mark on the threads of the pads with white paint or something that won't wash away to demark a stopping point. You do not want to crank the pads out of the tubes.
Cranking a boat up takes much time and energy. To save time, use 4x4 or 8x8 cribbing underneath the keel so that you aren't cranking a couple of feet every time you work on your keel. Do not even think of using blocks above a foot. Plan on spending some money on 4x4s or 6x6s at a big box store.
Cranking a boat up takes much time and energy. To save time, use 4x4 or 8x8 cribbing underneath the keel so that you aren't cranking a couple of feet every time you work on your keel. Do not even think of using blocks above a foot. Plan on spending some money on 4x4s or 6x6s at a big box store.
I think I could lift it a couple of feet safely with about a two ton truck load of 6x6 timber and a couple of dozen nylon slings and ratchet chain hoists and most of the summer. Probably wouldn't cost more than about ten thousand dollars and the labor of three men.
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