Fall centerboard inspection.

[TomY]

As many know, I changed my centerboard linkage and now use a SS cable from the screw gear to the board. Alden advisied me that I may have electrolysis problems with the SS. Niels was concerned that the connection at the board may have problems because it sits in stagnant salt water inside the centerboard housing when raised.

Since 2000 when I installed this cable, I've been careful to inspect it every haul as reccomended by Niels at Alden. After 7 Maine seasons, so far so good. I'll replace it this spring because of the obvious chafe on the nicro press fitting. I can't see anything that looks like galvanic corrosion on the bronze. Any thoughts on why electrolysis may or may not occur here? I assume the bronze would sacrifice itself if this were the case?

Inspection of the link plates and rivet to the bronze board look good as well. Has anyone had problems with these plates and rivet that connect to the bronze bar in the original configuration? The black covering on the nicro press fittings (doubled) is actually and amalgamated tape that was applied by the rigger in 2000. A very good tape I can see!



Love them or hate them (most who don't own them appear to be the latter), the Challenger has a formidable centerboard. With strong winds on a long sail just before this haulout, I sailed with a fully reefed mainsail (mizzen doused) and about a 120% (roller furled 130%)genoa forward.

This is a powerful combination for my boat going to windward in heavy wind and seas. In the strong conditions (heading windward in 25 knots, short steep seas) the other day, most noticeable is the lee helm from this combination of sail area forward. I was tempted to raise the mizzen to see it would add a bit of weather to the helm. But I had my hands full!

This is a good mental picture to have for this type of sailing. This extra depth and lateral plane (if that's correct) the centerboard adds is very evident in the boats sailing characteristics. While this may lack the new sections of todays keels, rudders etc., it feels like you've added a track below the boat to me. New sections, lift, etc. or not, this old design still will go to windward.

Of course she still likes to crack off a bit for the extra speed and power the boat needs to keep up steam in a seaway. And it's quite a wet ride, but she'll get you home.

 

[southport]

Cindy & I will often sail with just jib & jigger in those conditions. I'm always surprised she'll still do around 6.8 knots close-hauled. Don't think we point as well but by playing with the mizzen trim she's so balanced she sails herself! You def don't get the power you do with the main up.

We only have one set of reef points. If/when a new main comes along I'm tempted to put a second set in. What are thoughts on full battens? They'd be nice so they wouldn't hang up on the lazy jacks as the conventional ones do.

All looked good w/ our board- it's still painted red and I think it must look like a big red tongue hanging out of our now green bottom.

 

[TomY]

Full battened main,...

I don't know. I'm still using a pretty serviceable main cut for the roller furling boom. My sail maker thought it had a few years left after going over it. I'm not sure what I will do for a new main. I do know in conditions I sailed through lately, I use the main furled (roller) to it's smallest size. The equivalent of a very deep second or possibly third reef if the sail were so equiped.

This old system gives me a pretty flat sail when deeply reefed. But it makes a vang tough among other reasons, I'll go to a more conventional sail next.

I'll still want to reef down to that size or smaller. I too sail alot in heavy winds with just the "jib and jigger". When I need to go to windward though especially in heavy air, I find the small main will make all the difference going to weather. I'll be interested in what others think about main sail designs, handling etc.

 

[TomY]

Re: Fall centerboard inspection. Pin?

Has anyone removed the pin for inspection or replacement? I took the thin covering plate off a couple years back and remember seeing what looked like a castle nut around the pin. I didn't remove anything at the time but may pull mine this winter. I've been meaning to install a derlin bushing to take up some of the play between the board and the keel.

I would assume it's threaded rod about 3/4 to 1" diameter with a nut on each end? The clearence was tight around the nut as I recall, not sure if a socket will fit. Anyone have any experience?

 

[southport]

Tom when I rebuilt the rudder last year there was a similar nut on the end of the rudder post with hardly any clearance around it- I was pleasantly surprised to find a deep socket fit around it! Hopefully that will be the case for you. I'm interested to hear how the pin looks.

 

[TomY]

Thanks, that's good to know. On your rudder repair. I couldn't find any info (except your shearing the last bolt) on your rebuild. Mine is feeling like it's getting a bit more play. Looking at the bolts, I'm wondering if I can take them up some this spring. Did you find new ones to replace the sheared bolts? Bronze and fairly large dia. I suspect.

It looks like some wood plugs must be covering the nuts and washer that squeeze the 2 wood pieces? It should be fairly easy to replace the existing. I wonder if the bolts have worn, loosened (due to shrinking of wood) or have oversized the holes in the bronze rudder head piece? While the play isn't much, I'm thinking it should be strengthened now.

Any info on the bolts and how you rebuilt the rudder would be appreciated.

 

[southport]

The drawings I havve from Alden show a .75 inch bolt to hold the board. There are 1.75" by 5/16" spacers/washers on either side as well. There also appears to be 5/16" by 1 7/8" by 2'-6" spacers or "bolsters" on the board which run parallel to the top edge of the board and just forward of and just below where the lifting bar attaches to the board. That must also be to help prevent the trunck thunk. All spacers/bolts are bronze. There is a hole in the lifting bar to place a pin just above the table to put a 1/2" pin when removing the trulock. I'm sure this totally confused every one!

The rudder has two screws (at least a #14) at the lower end of the detatchable rudder post and at the top, two bronze bolts ( I think 3/8"). The top bolt is actually threaded into the rudder post, with a nut recessed in the board. The lower bolt is just a carriage bolt. Both these bolts were sheared off and just one screw holding a when it finally let go last year. There was no way to remove the broken lower bolt from the hole in the rudder- we tried every thing. I thought we could keep pounding it in and sawing off each 1" piece as it appeared in the hole but it wouldn't budge. I ended up taking it to a shop where they actually chiseled out the wood along the bolt to remove it. I was too chicken to try that- maybe attempt something it in later years as my courage grows. If they are loose you should be able to open up rudder blade where the nuts are and tighten them up. For the top one we were able to double nut it to really sock it home where it threads into the stainless rudder post. Needless to say with the age of the bronze some descretion is warranted when "yarning" on the nuts. Probably good idea to replace the two flat head screws. I was surprised ours screwed in and tightened up nicely even when we used a bit brace on them- the mahogany was in great shape.

 

[TomY]

re: rudder repair.

Jon, I was just going over what you said about your rudder repair experience. Down at the boat this weekend, the mahogany has dried and pulled away from the
rudder post. I could just see the knub of what's left of the upper bolt between the wood and the bronze post. Knowing now it's threaded into the post, it sheared off at the post.

I won't be getting into it for a while but it looks like I'll have to be able to remove the wood rudder sections to get access to drilling out the sheared upper bolt that's threaded into the post. Without scraping it down, can you explain if you removed the wood entirely and anything else about the construction of the rudder?

I'll take pics of the repair, it would be a good topic to have for repair and maintenance of these rubbers. Thanks for any more info.