Has anyone had any experience with a rudder/outboard steering connector? EZ Steer makes one that fits Hunters and allows steering the outboard with the rudder. My other questions are raising the engine out of the water and using the system, strength (hate to pay for it and then watch it go to the bottom if it detaches too easily!), what happens if the rudder kicks up, and anything else... I will be walleye/perch fishing off the boat on Erie when not sailing and thought it might be handy when going back and forth to set up the next drift (and around the docks). I have an older Johnson 9.9 Sailmaster I will be connecting to if engine size matters. Thanks! Randy Simmons H23 "Munchkin"
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Michael C.
I have one...
...on my 1996 H26. I also have the Johnson 9.9 sailmaster. I love the EZ steer - although I think it is a bit overpriced. It has an internal detent mechanism that allows the tube to become longer or shorter as needed when you raise or lower the engine. The connecting tube attaches to the engine and rudder with something similar to air hose disconnects, except they appear to be made of solid brass. The tube would not be easy to detach accidentally. My only concern is when I remove it for whatever reason, not to drop it in the water. The rudder kicking up is not an issue for my installation, as I mounted the rudder end of the connecting tube to the clamp plates that sandwich the rudder, so it doesn't move when the rudder kicks up. Docking becomes MUCH easier with the connection between the rudder and engine, and I can now dock the boat easily even without crew aboard to fend for me. You can make such a device yourself for a lot less money, there are posts on this forum with pictures. For me, it was worth the money not to have to fabricate it myself. If you decide to "roll your own", make sure the connections to engine and rudder are near the centerline of each (not mounted to the side of the engine for example), and it will work MUCH better. Don't ask me how I know this... Good luck... Michael C. H26 "Orion"
...on my 1996 H26. I also have the Johnson 9.9 sailmaster. I love the EZ steer - although I think it is a bit overpriced. It has an internal detent mechanism that allows the tube to become longer or shorter as needed when you raise or lower the engine. The connecting tube attaches to the engine and rudder with something similar to air hose disconnects, except they appear to be made of solid brass. The tube would not be easy to detach accidentally. My only concern is when I remove it for whatever reason, not to drop it in the water. The rudder kicking up is not an issue for my installation, as I mounted the rudder end of the connecting tube to the clamp plates that sandwich the rudder, so it doesn't move when the rudder kicks up. Docking becomes MUCH easier with the connection between the rudder and engine, and I can now dock the boat easily even without crew aboard to fend for me. You can make such a device yourself for a lot less money, there are posts on this forum with pictures. For me, it was worth the money not to have to fabricate it myself. If you decide to "roll your own", make sure the connections to engine and rudder are near the centerline of each (not mounted to the side of the engine for example), and it will work MUCH better. Don't ask me how I know this... Good luck... Michael C. H26 "Orion"
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mike
mine
I made one this winter after reading a post about it here. But I'm not using it currently because..............#1 it rattles when the engine runs (it's made of plated steel), also I attached it to the side of the motor and when I steer too far either direction it becomes too short and will bind. I guess that's why the previous post suggests you attach it to the back of the motor. I might modify it some more before I give up on it.
I made one this winter after reading a post about it here. But I'm not using it currently because..............#1 it rattles when the engine runs (it's made of plated steel), also I attached it to the side of the motor and when I steer too far either direction it becomes too short and will bind. I guess that's why the previous post suggests you attach it to the back of the motor. I might modify it some more before I give up on it.
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Mark
Home Made
It may be of interest that I priced variouse steering linkages here in Australia and most were very expensive so I made one. Our 260 has a hole through the stainless tiller shaft about 10 inches up from the bottom. I found a round length of stainless and cut it so that it would pass through this hole and almost touch the back of the transom box. I left enough to the rear of the steering post to drill a fine hole and place a split pin with a washer between. On the other side of the steering post I welded to the "rod" a piece of flat stainless with a hole in it the size of the rod.) Its length extended down to the bolt on the bottom of the steering post that stops it from dropping. I then purchased a length of rod and put a thread on each end. To one end I attached a screw on quick release slide shackle (like a tie rod end only stainless)To the other end I attached the same but one with a bolt on it so that I could attach it to the front of the motor. We have power trim on this little Yamaha 8hp 4 stroke so when you are ready to sail press a button and up she comes with the rod still attached. Total cost? Two hours work and $62.00 It works really well. In fact probaly better than the factory made ones. If any one would like an image I can scan a sketch and email. Regards
It may be of interest that I priced variouse steering linkages here in Australia and most were very expensive so I made one. Our 260 has a hole through the stainless tiller shaft about 10 inches up from the bottom. I found a round length of stainless and cut it so that it would pass through this hole and almost touch the back of the transom box. I left enough to the rear of the steering post to drill a fine hole and place a split pin with a washer between. On the other side of the steering post I welded to the "rod" a piece of flat stainless with a hole in it the size of the rod.) Its length extended down to the bolt on the bottom of the steering post that stops it from dropping. I then purchased a length of rod and put a thread on each end. To one end I attached a screw on quick release slide shackle (like a tie rod end only stainless)To the other end I attached the same but one with a bolt on it so that I could attach it to the front of the motor. We have power trim on this little Yamaha 8hp 4 stroke so when you are ready to sail press a button and up she comes with the rod still attached. Total cost? Two hours work and $62.00 It works really well. In fact probaly better than the factory made ones. If any one would like an image I can scan a sketch and email. Regards
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Ron
Mark, Post Sketch of Your System
Mark, yes, please post something which shows how you did your homemade E-Z steer system. Thanks!
Mark, yes, please post something which shows how you did your homemade E-Z steer system. Thanks!
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Mark
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Barry
Homemade E-Z Steer
I too am very interested in your design. Please forward any drawing/instructions you have to me. Good Sailing! Thanks, Barry Martin
I too am very interested in your design. Please forward any drawing/instructions you have to me. Good Sailing! Thanks, Barry Martin
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Mark
On its way Barry
I have emailed the design to you. The only thing I have not mentioned is that I have covered the stainless rod from the steering arm to the motor with clear plastic tubing so should it come into contact with the hull it will not leave any marks. Regards
I have emailed the design to you. The only thing I have not mentioned is that I have covered the stainless rod from the steering arm to the motor with clear plastic tubing so should it come into contact with the hull it will not leave any marks. Regards
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Sam Morgan
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