For those who use such things: When the motor is up, does the EZ-Steer get disconnected? If not, doesn't the extra weight of the motor add to the weight of your helm? I really want to get something like that (though I will probably make my own . . .). Thanks.
- Status
Advertised as not needing to be disconnected...
In theory, if tensioned perfectly, you are supposed to be able to raise the engine and leave it attached to the rudder. I found that it didn't work quite that well, so I detach it (on the rudder side) and hold it with a bungee chord. All I have to say that EZ-Steer is the best option that I have added to the boat. It has made docking under adverse conditions so much easier. Darren
In theory, if tensioned perfectly, you are supposed to be able to raise the engine and leave it attached to the rudder. I found that it didn't work quite that well, so I detach it (on the rudder side) and hold it with a bungee chord. All I have to say that EZ-Steer is the best option that I have added to the boat. It has made docking under adverse conditions so much easier. Darren
Detach
I detach mine and have a safety lanyard tied on to it to keep from dropping it overboard. Guarantee it won't float.
I detach mine and have a safety lanyard tied on to it to keep from dropping it overboard. Guarantee it won't float.
Leave connected
I leave mine connected. There are adjustment set screws on the unit to allow it to collapse or expand as you raise & lower the unit. Even though the unit attaches with a solid ball & socket type of connection, it has never come loose. I have also attached a small safety laynard to the bar should it become disconnected! The connection is the same type used on pressure washing hose connections. Works great.
I leave mine connected. There are adjustment set screws on the unit to allow it to collapse or expand as you raise & lower the unit. Even though the unit attaches with a solid ball & socket type of connection, it has never come loose. I have also attached a small safety laynard to the bar should it become disconnected! The connection is the same type used on pressure washing hose connections. Works great.
I always disconnect mine
For with the motor in the up position as I turn the rudder the motor hits the side of the yacht. (Hunter 260)
For with the motor in the up position as I turn the rudder the motor hits the side of the yacht. (Hunter 260)
Yes the motor moves
That is correct, the motor shifts as you turn the rudder. I have not noticed it as beong a problem.
That is correct, the motor shifts as you turn the rudder. I have not noticed it as beong a problem.
Motor = extra load
If you are planning on installing an auto-pilot for use under sail, I suggest that you plan on disconnecting it, will reduce load on the autopilot system.
If you are planning on installing an auto-pilot for use under sail, I suggest that you plan on disconnecting it, will reduce load on the autopilot system.
Disconnect it
Like others, I learned to put a bungee on it and disconnect at the rudder. I raise the motor with it still connected and then disconnect. Bungee holds it up out of the water and makes it easy to grab and reconnect. My motor, Merc 9.9 has a lock on it to keep it from turning, but doesn't work so well if you heal to far, it will still flop over. performance is much better with the motor up, less drag. I think you can feel the boat better turning just the rudder vs. rudder and motor.
Like others, I learned to put a bungee on it and disconnect at the rudder. I raise the motor with it still connected and then disconnect. Bungee holds it up out of the water and makes it easy to grab and reconnect. My motor, Merc 9.9 has a lock on it to keep it from turning, but doesn't work so well if you heal to far, it will still flop over. performance is much better with the motor up, less drag. I think you can feel the boat better turning just the rudder vs. rudder and motor.
E-Z steer says...
From their website: "SAILBOAT: This is the only bracket assembly that requires the drilling of any holes. (The rudder needs to be drilled to mount the bracket to it.) We recommend putting the bracket on with "C" clamps before drilling any holes. This is to make sure the bracket is in the right position before drilling the rudder. Once the bracket is in the desired position, the bracket can be used as a template for drilling the rudder. The sailboat system is also the only system where it is sometimes desirable to disconnect the rod. The rudder on most sailboats has a much greater turning radius than most auxiliary outboard motors, therefore, the motor in some cases will restrict the turning of the rudder when under sail. At that time, we recommend that the rod be popped off the rudder, the rod placed alongside the auxiliary motor, and held in place by a bungee cord." Dave Crowley s/v Wind Dreamer
From their website: "SAILBOAT: This is the only bracket assembly that requires the drilling of any holes. (The rudder needs to be drilled to mount the bracket to it.) We recommend putting the bracket on with "C" clamps before drilling any holes. This is to make sure the bracket is in the right position before drilling the rudder. Once the bracket is in the desired position, the bracket can be used as a template for drilling the rudder. The sailboat system is also the only system where it is sometimes desirable to disconnect the rod. The rudder on most sailboats has a much greater turning radius than most auxiliary outboard motors, therefore, the motor in some cases will restrict the turning of the rudder when under sail. At that time, we recommend that the rod be popped off the rudder, the rod placed alongside the auxiliary motor, and held in place by a bungee cord." Dave Crowley s/v Wind Dreamer
No need to drill
On a 260 you do not drill the rudder. They make a bracket to go around the rudder post. When used in combination with a Honda four stroke 9.9, there is no interference and the rod can be left attached if you so desire. You can also disconnect it if you desire- Captain's choice/preference. Call Connie at EZ Steer with your boat & motor model number & she will get you exactly what you need.
On a 260 you do not drill the rudder. They make a bracket to go around the rudder post. When used in combination with a Honda four stroke 9.9, there is no interference and the rod can be left attached if you so desire. You can also disconnect it if you desire- Captain's choice/preference. Call Connie at EZ Steer with your boat & motor model number & she will get you exactly what you need.
Thanks and one more questino
I appreciate all the great responses. One more question: I know some people make their own rather than buying EZ Steer. What do you think? Is it worth the extra money to buy it, or . . . ? Thanks.
I appreciate all the great responses. One more question: I know some people make their own rather than buying EZ Steer. What do you think? Is it worth the extra money to buy it, or . . . ? Thanks.
Buying EZ Steer
Michael, I just purchased the EZ Steer and installed it yesterday. The installation went very quick, which is good, because I don't have alot of time these days. That said, If I had a bit more time, I would have fabriated something myself that is a bit sturdier and made completely of stainless(the ez steer isn't all stainless. Good luck.
Michael, I just purchased the EZ Steer and installed it yesterday. The installation went very quick, which is good, because I don't have alot of time these days. That said, If I had a bit more time, I would have fabriated something myself that is a bit sturdier and made completely of stainless(the ez steer isn't all stainless. Good luck.
I made mine and love it on my H26
I used the idea seen on this Forum where you use a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe that slips over two vertical "posts" - one on the motor and one on the rudder. Just a couple weeks ago, I replaced the bolt at the top rear of the rudder with a stainless eye bolt of the same diameter. I then fashioned another bolt that sticks up through the screw eye. (It took me well over 45 minutes at the hardware store to find the little spacers, right size washers, locking nut, etc.) I did the same thing on the motor side but with much smaller diameter bolts. The bolt hole in the engine cover is drilled at the same height as the rudder. (Yes, the motor side is connected to the plastic removable cover of my Nissan 9.8.) Each end of the "link" PVC is sawed half through and drilled out to slide snugglly over each bolt. There's a little safety line that the keeps the PVC with us. In use, I put down the motor like always, place the link over the bolts and away we go. Once out of the marina, I just lift the link off the posts and drop down by the gas tank. After years of watching this Forum, analyzing all (and admiring some) of the snazzy and technical solutions that folks have found for this problem, I liked the simplicity and price of this solution. And it has worked well enough for me. I am not quite happy with the geometry of my "version 1.1" yet, because I mounted the motor side eye bolt on the side of the engine rather than at the back center as in the link below. Also, I did not expect one small side effect that probably applies to all methods is that the vibration of the engine gets transmitted to the boat hull. So when connnected, you get more motor vibration. I found the photo that I used to guide me. Follow the link below. If it is not working, search for "Rudder Outboard Connection" in 2004 Smaller Boats. Good luck - you'll love this improvement!! Jim s/v Grizzly Bear
I used the idea seen on this Forum where you use a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe that slips over two vertical "posts" - one on the motor and one on the rudder. Just a couple weeks ago, I replaced the bolt at the top rear of the rudder with a stainless eye bolt of the same diameter. I then fashioned another bolt that sticks up through the screw eye. (It took me well over 45 minutes at the hardware store to find the little spacers, right size washers, locking nut, etc.) I did the same thing on the motor side but with much smaller diameter bolts. The bolt hole in the engine cover is drilled at the same height as the rudder. (Yes, the motor side is connected to the plastic removable cover of my Nissan 9.8.) Each end of the "link" PVC is sawed half through and drilled out to slide snugglly over each bolt. There's a little safety line that the keeps the PVC with us. In use, I put down the motor like always, place the link over the bolts and away we go. Once out of the marina, I just lift the link off the posts and drop down by the gas tank. After years of watching this Forum, analyzing all (and admiring some) of the snazzy and technical solutions that folks have found for this problem, I liked the simplicity and price of this solution. And it has worked well enough for me. I am not quite happy with the geometry of my "version 1.1" yet, because I mounted the motor side eye bolt on the side of the engine rather than at the back center as in the link below. Also, I did not expect one small side effect that probably applies to all methods is that the vibration of the engine gets transmitted to the boat hull. So when connnected, you get more motor vibration. I found the photo that I used to guide me. Follow the link below. If it is not working, search for "Rudder Outboard Connection" in 2004 Smaller Boats. Good luck - you'll love this improvement!! Jim s/v Grizzly Bear
EZ Steer w/ a little adjustment
I have a Tohatsu 9.9 and have to disconnect or adjust my EZ Steer before coming back into the dock. I initially thought the collar at the rudder post was slipping, and it was, but due to the motor (pick-up) handle hitting the back of the boat during hard to port turning. I may have a set-up problem, and Crazy Dave is due to handle this and other warranty items soon, but the EZ Steer is still worth having for it manuvering benefits!!
I have a Tohatsu 9.9 and have to disconnect or adjust my EZ Steer before coming back into the dock. I initially thought the collar at the rudder post was slipping, and it was, but due to the motor (pick-up) handle hitting the back of the boat during hard to port turning. I may have a set-up problem, and Crazy Dave is due to handle this and other warranty items soon, but the EZ Steer is still worth having for it manuvering benefits!!
- Status