Eye splice for Samson MLX3 halyards

[Hayden Watson]

I recently got some Samson MLX3 line to make new halyards with. This is a moderately high-tech core-dependant double braid line. It has a polyester cover and an HMPE - MFP blend core and requires a Class 2 splice. For use in a halyard, should I install a thimble and if so, which kind.

For all of my halyards, I use Dyneema soft shackles.

I see them in stamped SS, cast SS, nylon. Given that they will be connected to soft shackles, do I need a thimble or just the bare polyester cover?

 

[dLj]

I wouldn't use a thimble in your case, or if I did it would be the nylon.one. I've gone from spliced eyes in my halyards to halyard knots. That way I can cut off the knot if it begins to wear and just tie another halyard knot. I've enough tail on my halyards to do this more times that the halyard life will be. However, I'm not connecting to soft shackles - not sure how that would work in your case.

dj

 

[thinwater]

I recently got some Samson MLX3 line to make new halyards with. This is a moderately high-tech core-dependant double braid line. It has a polyester cover and an HMPE - MFP blend core and requires a Class 2 splice. For use in a halyard, should I install a thimble and if so, which kind.

For all of my halyards, I use Dyneema soft shackles.

I see them in stamped SS, cast SS, nylon. Given that they will be connected to soft shackles, do I need a thimble or just the bare polyester cover?

A nylon thimble will collapse under any real load. I feel like they are mostly cosmetic.

Never stamped SS with rope. They are for wire cable and the ends can damamge the rope if they shift, and they often do, because ropes stretch under load and Dyneema splices loosen as they set. Starzinger posted an image of a JSD bridle nearly cut through by a wire rope (stamped) thimble that shifted. Not worth the risk. Sailmaker's and cast thimbles will work, but you don't need them.

My preference, if there is not a terrible d/D ratio problem, (1:1 is OK for eye splices in Dyneema according to the makers) and no very sharp edges, is a webbing thimble. Just hot cut a length of tubular webbing (like climbers use) over a mandrel (to avoid sealing the ends together) and thread it on. Or Dyneema chafe sleeve (although it is actually no more chafe resistant than nylon climbing webbing, only more compact, which is not a benefit in this case--tested). Or no thimble.

Normally halyard chafe is the result of the splice and shackle hitting the masthead and creating burs, which the rope then rubs against. Balls before the splice prevent this.

 

[Hayden Watson]

I wouldn't use a thimble in your case, or if I did it would be the nylon.one. I've gone from spliced eyes in my halyards to halyard knots. That way I can cut off the knot if it begins to wear and just tie another halyard knot. I've enough tail on my halyards to do this more times that the halyard life will be. However, I'm not connecting to soft shackles - not sure how that would work in your case.

dj

I have used halyard knots with a small loop to hold my soft shackles before. My concern would be how well the knot would hold in a high-tech line. I have always heard that they should not be knotted.

 

[colemj]

I just incorporate the soft shackle right into the halyard/sheet itself.

 

[colemj]

Another idea is something like this where you keep a pigtail with knot attached to your headboard and make a slipping eye splice on the end of your halyard:

 

[thinwater]

... I've gone from spliced eyes in my halyards to halyard knots. That way I can cut off the knot if it begins to wear and just tie another halyard knot. I've enough tail on my halyards to do this more times that the halyard life will be. However, I'm not connecting to soft shackles - not sure how that would work in your case.

dj

Agreed. Also wear in the clutch. Re-doing a class-2 splice is 5 minutes with a wire fid, barely more complicated than a knot. Yes, you have to cut off a few feet, but that is the whole point.

Not sayin' I would not just use a knot. I've knotted Dyneema many times when testing something before making it final. Just add a backup knot so that the tail can't suck in, or seize the tail down. It won't slip. I have used knots on pull testing rigs up to 5000 pounds, with a backup knot.

 

[dLj]

Agreed. Also wear in the clutch. Re-doing a class-2 splice is 5 minutes with a wire fid, barely more complicated than a knot. Yes, you have to cut off a few feet, but that is the whole point.

Not sayin' I would not just use a knot. I've knotted Dyneema many times when testing something before making it final. Just add a backup knot so that the tail can't suck in, or seize the tail down. It won't slip. I have used knots on pull testing rigs up to 5000 pounds, with a backup knot.

I don't have clutches - I'm also using fairly high tech dyneema core with poly sheath for my halyards. I've not had any knots slip, but I'm trying onto stainless shackles so can get the knot really tight.

While I agree with splice being easy enough - but not so much if you are in the ocean fighting wind, waves and weather - much easier to tie a knot. No tools involved...

dj