Extra hose clamps - good idea

[dLj]

And increases exponentially to the access and space to remove it.

I stopped trying to save most hoses. If they don't come off relatively easily they get cut off and the hose replaced.

Hahaha - the access and space needn't be stated - it's an axiom!

I was refecting on a hose I have to take off to winterize my engine - in previous years when I was in a hurry, it was a bear to get off. This year, since I'd remembered that fact, I'd given myself lots of time time to tackle it and it came off quite easily!

dj

 

[thinwater]

A few things I have learned about hoses:

• Hose picks are a great help. When you pull on a hose it does the Chinese finger trap thing, but when you pull from the edge it does the opposite. A bargain on Amazon. I should have bought a set 40 years ago.
• White sanitation hose sucks. Trident and Rairitan make better products.
• A heat gun is your friend, just don't overdo it. Warm the hose slowly, since it takes time for the heat to penetrate. Little by little.
• Always inspect and clean/repair the barb before replacing the hose, particularly if you cut it off. That is where leaks start.
• Don't use oversized clamps. The larger flat spot under the screw causes leaks.
• Don't remove hoses for winterization. Take the time to install valves as needed. Much better the next year.

When cutting off a hose, if it comes to that, try to only cut through the reinforcement and not all the way, then use hooks and heat. Cutting through all the way nearly always damages the barb, after which it leaks.

You should not have to scrap a hose to get it off. If it's old, of course, that's different. Scrap it. I've got one I should scrap, but it's a bugger to reach and it isn't cracked. Maybe this spring. I shouldn't talk ....

 

[Dalliance]

LOL we need to write another Murphy's Law related to this. I'll take a stab at it, but this is too long. Maybe the hive-mind can help make it more succinct :
"The difficulty of removing a hose from a barbed fitting is directly proportional to the time since it was last moved, increases exponentially with the thickness of the hose and rises exponentially again if wire-reinforced."

Edit - Then there's the temperature factor.

It also increases with the age of the boat owner, and if said owner has arthritis, age is measured in dog years.

 

[NYSail]

I've had 3 fail or be near failure due to rust and corrosion on the screw. The failed one was on the discharge hose from the Y-valve to the thru-hull. The other two were near failure and on the hose for the oil cooler on the engine. Neither of them good, one would have been disastrous.

I inspect / tighten them all at the beginning of every season and replace if I see any rust. All the important ones are double clamped as well.

 

[dLj]

[*]Don't remove hoses for winterization. Take the time to install valves as needed. Much better the next year.

Works if you have the room for the valve... In my case, I'd need a Tee and a valve for my case. I definitively don't have room for all that.

Do you know of marine grade couplings like they use in steam pipes? I've only found these in cast iron, never in stainless or bronze. That would be useful if they were in a marine grade alloy. Put a hose nipple in each end and Bob's your Uncle!

dj

 

[thinwater]

Works if you have the room for the valve... In my case, I'd need a Tee and a valve for my case. I definitively don't have room for all that.

Do you know of marine grade couplings like they use in steam pipes? I've only found these in cast iron, never in stainless or bronze. That would be useful if they were in a marine grade alloy. Put a hose nipple in each end and Bob's your Uncle!

dj

That is a pipe union, and they are commonly available in brass, stainless, bronze, and copper. McMaster Carr has a nice selection in bronze.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Sometimes a little re-piping is required, but then it is done for all time and winterizing becomes a breeze. I added Tees and valves to my cruising cat for the intake to the head, freshwater right after the tank, AC intake, and engines. I could winterize all of the systems, intake to outlet, in less than 30 minutes, going slow. So much better. I even left the suction hoses in place, so that I could just walk from place to place with the AF jugs. So nice, and you never miss a spot.

 

[dLj]

That is a pipe union, and they are commonly available in brass, stainless, bronze, and copper. McMaster Carr has a nice selection in bronze.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Sometimes a little re-piping is required, but then it is done for all time and winterizing becomes a breeze. I added Tees and valves to my cruising cat for the intake to the head, freshwater right after the tank, AC intake, and engines. I could winterize all of the systems, intake to outlet, in less than 30 minutes, going slow. So much better. I even left the suction hoses in place, so that I could just walk from place to place with the AF jugs. So nice, and you never miss a spot.

Nice ! I may have room to plumb in a union. I don't have a lot of room. But I will look for that - thanks for the link. I do have valves in all other location where appropriate.

dj

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but since a pipe coupling is a sort of compression fitting with a softer metal sealing surface, aren't they technically a one time use item? Perhaps a cam fitting or a quick release for hydraulic lines would be a better choice?

 

[thinwater]

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but since a pipe coupling is a sort of compression fitting with a softer metal sealing surface, aren't they technically a one time use item? Perhaps a cam fitting or a quick release for hydraulic lines would be a better choice?

In some theory, yes. In over 100 years of practice, no, they are commonly opened and closed, including high/moderate pressure (much higher than any pressure on a boat) applications, where anual or similar service is required. Not something where they are opened every week, but every year is not unusual. They might wear after a few decades of this use, at which time they are not hard to replace. The suggested boat use is VERY light duty for these fittings. In industry they might run at 200 PSI, 400F, for 10 years, with occasional openings for service.

And I don't have anything against camlock fittings for many applications. But I am sure that the likelihood of a catastrophic leak (anything more than a few drips) is lower with a union that with the other options. (Decades of refinery expereince with many types and many liquids.)

Do heavily grease the coupling threads. Do hold the pipe-end motionless with another wrench when closing the coupling.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

In some theory, yes. In over 100 years of practice, no, they are commonly opened and closed, including high/moderate pressure (much higher than any pressure on a boat) applications, where anual or similar service is required. Not something where they are opened every week, but every year is not unusual. They might wear after a few decades of this use, at which time they are not hard to replace. The suggested boat use is VERY light duty for these fittings. In industry they might run at 200 PSI, 400F, for 10 years, with occasional openings for service.

And I don't have anything against camlock fittings for many applications. But I am sure that the likelihood of a catastrophic leak (anything more than a few drips) is lower with a union that with the other options. (Decades of refinery expereince with many types and many liquids.)

Do heavily grease the coupling threads. Do hold the pipe-end motionless with another wrench when closing the coupling.

Thank you for a very to the point answer!