Extra hose clamps - good idea

[Captain Larry-DH]

I mentioned to a boatyard friend that I’m in the process of slowly replacing the perforated OEM hose clamps with better quality solid hose clamps (e.g. Scandvik clamps). Every time I need to remove a hose I do the upgrade while I’m at it, whether the perforated clamp is rusted or not.
He asked me what I do with the old ones, and I told him I discard them in the recycling bin. He said “why not leave them loose in the middle of the hose? Then if you ever have a clamp failure you have a replacement already there to slide in place without needing to remove the hose.”
I liked this idea and am passing it on.

 

[dlochner]

Thanks, I've been doing the same, replacing the cheap OEM slotted clamps with Scandviks. Besides being a better quality clamp that is all SS all sizes have the same sized screws and their nut driver with the flexible shaft is a godsend for reaching clamps in tight locations. I'll start leaving clamps in good condition right on the hose.

 

[Davidasailor26]

Sounds clever. I’d just want to make sure the old one can’t rattle someplace and chafe any nearby wires or anything like that.

 

[Captain Larry-DH]

Sounds clever. I’d just want to make sure the old one can’t rattle someplace and chafe any nearby wires or anything like that.

Good point, I’d snug them to the hose just enough so they stay near the new one.

 

[dLj]

I mentioned to a boatyard friend that I’m in the process of slowly replacing the perforated OEM hose clamps with better quality solid hose clamps (e.g. Scandvik clamps). Every time I need to remove a hose I do the upgrade while I’m at it, whether the perforated clamp is rusted or not.
He asked me what I do with the old ones, and I told him I discard them in the recycling bin. He said “why not leave them loose in the middle of the hose? Then if you ever have a clamp failure you have a replacement already there to slide in place without needing to remove the hose.”
I liked this idea and am passing it on.

My take is it sounds good, but wouldn't really work as expected. It is not likely those solid clamps would be the cause of failure, but rather the hose. How would having a second clamp placed on the hose help that?

If the clamp were to be the failure mechanism, then the other clamp, less corrosion resistant, would likely not be any more functional than the clamp that just failed.

In any case, I certainly would not leave them loose...

dj

 

[dlochner]

My take is it sounds good, but wouldn't really work as expected. It is not likely those solid clamps would be the cause of failure, but rather the hose. How would having a second clamp placed on the hose help that?

If the clamp were to be the failure mechanism, then the other clamp, less corrosion resistant, would likely not be any more functional than the clamp that just failed.

In any case, I certainly would not leave them loose...

dj

Good point.

 

[Dalliance]

I’m also gradually upgrading hose clamps from perforated to solid, but leaving the old ones loose on the hoses doesn’t appeal to me. I have a little bin full of the old perforated clamps below the port side settee as emergency backup stock for myself or dock neighbors. Don’t think I’ve ever pulled one from that bin. When I need that space for something else, they’ll been in the recycling dumpster.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Sounds clever. I’d just want to make sure the old one can’t rattle someplace and chafe any nearby wires or anything like that.

A very light clamping is enough to keep them still

 

[thinwater]

I think the risk of chafe outweighs the minor convenience. I think this is a good idea that ... isn't actually a good idea. The code will say no (yes, ABYC states that a hose cannot be closer than 1/4-inch from the end of the barb) and I suspect your surveyor might as well.

Small risk, but minuscule convenience. You'll be in the tool box getting a driver anyway.

 

[NYSail]

I upgrade my hose clamps when I see them in poor / failing condiction. However have to say in over 25 years of boat ownership I have never had a hose clamp fail……

 

[Captain Larry-DH]

I upgrade my hose clamps when I see them in poor / failing condiction. However have to say in over 25 years of boat ownership I have never had a hose clamp fail……

In 55 years of boat ownership I’ve seen only one fail, and it was the slotted type I’m replacing.

 

[dlochner]

I upgrade my hose clamps when I see them in poor / failing condiction. However have to say in over 25 years of boat ownership I have never had a hose clamp fail……

I've had 3 fail or be near failure due to rust and corrosion on the screw. The failed one was on the discharge hose from the Y-valve to the thru-hull. The other two were near failure and on the hose for the oil cooler on the engine. Neither of them good, one would have been disastrous.

 

[colemj]

I've had countless perforated hose clamps fail, and am surprised few others here have. The most common failure happens when retightening the clamp after loosening it to work on the hose/fitting. That's when it is common for either one of the slots to break, or the screw mechanism to pop. But I've also gone to loosen one and find that the slot holding it has already broken in place, or the screw mechanism has popped.

Frankly, I only think hose clamps are necessary for one year, then you can remove them entirely, since all of our hoses seem welded to their fittings after this time.

I don't understand the comment about ABYC forbidding the practice described, It isn't any different than just placing a hose clamp near the fitting, as the clamp isn't being used for anything - just hanging out waiting to be put to use. I also can't picture what is meant by the hose can't be more than 1/4" from the end of the barb, nor what this has to do with the clamp.

My concern about the practice is that a spare clamp sitting on a hose is just another opportunity to lose more blood when working in the area.

Mark

 

[east coaster]

I have only had one fail on the boat, but as stated previously the hose was "welded" to the fitting and I caught it in time. Now I use the wide hose clamps ensuring the screw and thread are either on the top or the side of the hose. This helps as any sweat or leak runs to the underside of the fitting and the rust starts. I also spray the clamp with rust check which is a waxy preventative that works for me as I have not had an issue since. Just my experience in this matter. I also regularly replace the hoses on a 4-5 year cycle.

 

[Captain Larry-DH]

since all of our hoses seem welded to their fittings after this time.

LOL we need to write another Murphy's Law related to this. I'll take a stab at it, but this is too long. Maybe the hive-mind can help make it more succinct :
"The difficulty of removing a hose from a barbed fitting is directly proportional to the time since it was last moved, increases exponentially with the thickness of the hose and rises exponentially again if wire-reinforced."

Edit - Then there's the temperature factor.

 

[dLj]

Frankly, I only think hose clamps are necessary for one year, then you can remove them entirely, since all of our hoses seem welded to their fittings after this time.

I certainly hope you are joking. You really aren't taking your hose clamps off, are you?

dj

 

[thinwater]

I've had countless perforated hose clamps fail, and am surprised few others here have. The most common failure happens when retightening the clamp after loosening it to work on the hose/fitting. That's when it is common for either one of the slots to break, or the screw mechanism to pop. But I've also gone to loosen one and find that the slot holding it has already broken in place, or the screw mechanism has popped.

Frankly, I only think hose clamps are necessary for one year, then you can remove them entirely, since all of our hoses seem welded to their fittings after this time.

I don't understand the comment about ABYC forbidding the practice described, It isn't any different than just placing a hose clamp near the fitting, as the clamp isn't being used for anything - just hanging out waiting to be put to use. I also can't picture what is meant by the hose can't be more than 1/4" from the end of the barb, nor what this has to do with the clamp.

My concern about the practice is that a spare clamp sitting on a hose is just another opportunity to lose more blood when working in the area.

Mark

ABYC H-33 covers hoses and clamping. It specifies the correct size for each hose (many people use clamps that are too wide because they look stronger), how the clamp is positioned on the barb (at least 1/4-inch from the end of the barb), and which systems require double clamps (only exhaust, fuel fill, and sanitation (in the last case because they are not barbed). Many of the hose failures I have seen were caused by trying to fit 2 clamps on a barb that was only long enough for one. The clamp overhangs the end of the barb, and with flexing, cuts the hose.

I agree that a clamp placed loosely on the hose presents very, very little risk, but it presents even less little actual advantage and the practice creates the potential for harm. Just not a good practice. For example, all hoses expand an contract with pressure and temperature, creating the potential for a "stored" clamp to cut the hose. I twill also be exposed to the elements for the full period, so is it in better shape than the clamp it is replacing? Not a very bad practice, just not an improved or better practice. IMO.

Either way, read H-33 to learn about hoses.

 

[dLj]

LOL we need to write another Murphy's Law related to this. I'll take a stab at it, but this is too long. Maybe the hive-mind can help make it more succinct :
"The difficulty of removing a hose from a barbed fitting is directly proportional to the time since it was last moved, increases exponentially with the thickness of the hose and rises exponentially again if wire-reinforced."

Edit - Then there's the temperature factor.

Or how about: The difficulty of removing a hose from a barbed fitting is directly proportional to the need to get it off and inversely proportional to the amount of time available for working on it.

dj

 

[dlochner]

Either way, read H-33 to learn about hoses.

Since we all have spent about $500 to buy a copy of the standards......

There is however a way to access them for free. Go to the ABYC website and search for the Recreational Membership. This is a 5 day free membership that provides access to the online version of the Standards. There is no download link, however, with a little computer savvy a pdf of each section can be created.

I'd provide a direct link to the Recreational Membership page, but they seem to keep moving it. So you'll have to search for it. And sometimes it seems to disappear for a while, be persistent sort of pulling a hose off a barbed fitting.

 

[dlochner]

Or how about: The difficulty of removing a hose from a barbed fitting is directly proportional to the need to get it off and inversely proportional to the amount of time available for working on it.

dj

And increases exponentially to the access and space to remove it.

I stopped trying to save most hoses. If they don't come off relatively easily they get cut off and the hose replaced.