Exhaust Elbow Wrap

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Sean

This weekend I removed all of the wrap om my exhaust elbow. The elbow was very rusty as the wrap seemed to absorb moisture. This obviously creates a lot of rust over a period of time. I plan an replacing the elbow this winter using the Home Depot method. In the meantime, what is the best product to wrap the elbow in to eliminate the moisture problem. Also, I always thought that fiberglass was very flammable. Am I missing something here? The old wrap appeared to be fiberglass. As always, thanks for your expertise. Sean s/v Carnaby Street
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Home Depot Method?

Sean: I am not familiar with the 'Home Depot Method' for repairing your exhaust. As far as the fiberglass wrap on your exhaust, this is probably a replacement product for asbestos. If it was going to burn it would have done it by now. What type of engine do you have? I think that you are getting condensation when the exhaust cools.
 
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Dave

flammable fiberglass?

Fiberglass is not flammable to the best of my knowledge. Fiberglass is glass fibers woven into a matt or cloth or chopped into strands. GRP or Glass Reinforced Plastic is flammable. In this case it is the plastic that is flammable.
 
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Sean

Steve

My engine is yse12. The Home Depot method I found searching through the archives. It's merely using galvanized pipe and elbows to make the same shape as the original. The ends are then welded on to complete the reproduction. Sounds like a great idea and will save considerable $$. What to wrap it with is what I want to know. The rust under the fiberglass was unbelievable. The elbow is probably half gone but still doesn't leak. Sean
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Galvanized pipe and salt water?

Sean: I can tell you that hot exhaust, diesel fuel, salt water and galvanized pipe is not going to hold up very well. Was the original setup a cast iron elbow or do you know? It may save you money but I do not think it is going to be wise. If you start getting exhaust leaks down below it can be fatal.
 
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Gary Jensen

Do it RIGHT!!!!

Don't cut cost on this job....Check the price from Catalina. They can make you up a new mixing elbo. They did it for me a couple of years ago. I don't even recall what the price was. I only remember that it wasn't much and it was done right.
 
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Bob Sawyer

Home Depot Method

I used the HD method and it works ('74 C27)- 1. Disassemble entire exhaust system.Difficult but not impossible. 2. Remove flange from manifold and buy another from Westerbeke - Massachusetts - about $15 3. Take all pipes to Home Depot and replace them with BLACK PIPE not galvanized. 4. Reassemble pipe-don't redesign unless you really know what your doing. 5. Replace all hoses - West Marine - $50. 6. Wrap all pipes with fiberglass wrap - not asbestos. Fiberglass wrap can be purchased from your local high performance auto store - they call it header wrap $2 per foot - 20 feet. 7. Run engine 10 min
 
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Larry W.

Exhaust pipe

Sean; Bob S. is right. Don't buy from Catalina. They supply a pipe, wrapped in a metal mesh and covered with an insulator and it's very expensive. I know, I bought from them for my C-30 several years ago and had to take it completely apart to get it to fit. The important thing is the flange on the manifold. A Universal 5411 flange is about three hundred bucks! Save the old one! The pipe unscrews from it. Also, save the brass portion that contains the water injection nozzle, and reuse it. Take the rusted exhaust pipe to a hardware store and match it up. It's just black iron elbows and nipples. Reassembly can be a pain, but it's worth it.
 
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Sean

Thanks

Thanks for your many insights. I think I will go ahead and make my own. A sence of accomplishment plus saving many $$ is always good. Sean
 
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