Howdy, I wish to anchor my boat for the eight hours I will be at work. I would like to be extra safe in Long Island Sound,so I wish to use the "Bahmian" manner with two anchors.My question is the procedure,how far apart to set the anchors,(and how do I figure THAT out,) as well as scope.ie:do I use a "normal" amount like 7.etc.Dropping one anchor,motoring backwards etc.seems like a lot with exact plan. Any help would be greatly appreciated. LLOYD
Everybodys favorite topic... Anchoring!!!
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normal scope
Use normal scope since you are only pulling on one anchor at a time. If less than "normal" scope would cause you drag, the second anchor wouldn't prevent that from happening.... Of course at some point I am sure dragging two would mean you are much more likley to snag something
Brian
Use normal scope since you are only pulling on one anchor at a time. If less than "normal" scope would cause you drag, the second anchor wouldn't prevent that from happening.... Of course at some point I am sure dragging two would mean you are much more likley to snag something
Brian
Bahamian Procedure and Scope
The scope for a nylon rode with 15 feet of chain on the anchor is 7 times the depth from your bow where the rode attaches to the bottom at the predicted high tide depth. For example, if you anchor in 10 feet of water with 5 more feet of tide coming in, and your bow is 4 feet out of the water the scope is 7 * (10+5+4) or 133 feet. The procedure goes something like this: Drop the first anchor, and let out 133 feet of rode while backing down with the tidal current at the time. Tie off the first anchor, and set it by backing down hard. Let out another 133 feet of line from the first anchor (for a total of 266 feet) while continuing to back down with the tidal current. Drop the second anchor. Haul in the first rode until the 133 feet of scope is out on both lines. Set the second anchor Ease out (to allow a normal catenary or drop of the rodes) then tie off both lines. Go ashore in your dinghy. When you get back and leave the bahamian anchor, be aware that it is possible to wrap one rode of the other around your keel or rudder as the boat swings with the tide. I would advise you to talk over anchoring and mooring techniques with others who are using your anchorage. The bahamian mooring confines the movement of your boat in the anchorage, and provides good holding when the tides shift 180 degrees. But if you have a good holding bottom, and room to swing, one anchor will very reliably hold you, even with a reversing tide. Going to an all chain rode will allow you to shorten to a 5 times scope (95 feet in the example.) Consider one anchor because it will make the job easier, and increase the frequency with which you take the boat to work (What a great idea!) David Lady Lillie
The scope for a nylon rode with 15 feet of chain on the anchor is 7 times the depth from your bow where the rode attaches to the bottom at the predicted high tide depth. For example, if you anchor in 10 feet of water with 5 more feet of tide coming in, and your bow is 4 feet out of the water the scope is 7 * (10+5+4) or 133 feet. The procedure goes something like this: Drop the first anchor, and let out 133 feet of rode while backing down with the tidal current at the time. Tie off the first anchor, and set it by backing down hard. Let out another 133 feet of line from the first anchor (for a total of 266 feet) while continuing to back down with the tidal current. Drop the second anchor. Haul in the first rode until the 133 feet of scope is out on both lines. Set the second anchor Ease out (to allow a normal catenary or drop of the rodes) then tie off both lines. Go ashore in your dinghy. When you get back and leave the bahamian anchor, be aware that it is possible to wrap one rode of the other around your keel or rudder as the boat swings with the tide. I would advise you to talk over anchoring and mooring techniques with others who are using your anchorage. The bahamian mooring confines the movement of your boat in the anchorage, and provides good holding when the tides shift 180 degrees. But if you have a good holding bottom, and room to swing, one anchor will very reliably hold you, even with a reversing tide. Going to an all chain rode will allow you to shorten to a 5 times scope (95 feet in the example.) Consider one anchor because it will make the job easier, and increase the frequency with which you take the boat to work (What a great idea!) David Lady Lillie
Ah, guys,
I've used the bahamian moore almost exclusively since the mid '80s. It is done with two anchors set at about a 90 degree angle off the bow. The setting of the second anchor to the stern is called something else, not sure what. Very useful in reversing currents such as here in Puget Sound.
I've used the bahamian moore almost exclusively since the mid '80s. It is done with two anchors set at about a 90 degree angle off the bow. The setting of the second anchor to the stern is called something else, not sure what. Very useful in reversing currents such as here in Puget Sound.
thanks
Thanks for all of the great tips.I am now sailing the Norwalk Islands,and want to try Zieglers Cove,as well as Northport etc.I want to do the Bahamian thing in Stamford Harbor.
Thanks for all of the great tips.I am now sailing the Norwalk Islands,and want to try Zieglers Cove,as well as Northport etc.I want to do the Bahamian thing in Stamford Harbor.
ah, Fred
I think David has it spot on regarding Bahamian mooring. It is 180, both off the bow, not 90. I don't think he implied tying the second anchor to the stern. From a Sail Net article: A Bahamian moor is nothing more than spreading the V on a traditional two-anchor set until the V has become a straight line with the anchors set 180 degrees apart. With one anchor set up-current and the second set down-current, the boat is effectively immobilized in one place, regardless of the actions of water flow or wind. When the tide changes and the current reverses, the boat simply pulls on the other rode. With practice, patience, and experience, you should be able to get your vessel in to almost any tight anchorage. The biggest problem with the Bahamian Moor is from the rodes chafing the stem of the boat and the bottom paint for the full length of the hull. Even if a little slack is left in both rodes, when the wind opposes the current, the boat may well sit on the aft anchor. Many experienced cruisers help overcome this difficulty by running sentinels, or heavy weights, down each rode to the bottom. These weights deflect the rode downward, effectively increasing the catenary and acting as an automatic retracting system on the slack rode. It isn't 100 percent effective, but it does help. Sentinels and riding gear should be a part of every cruiser's storm anchoring system in any event. There are several ways to set a Bahamian moor. We normally anchor to the existing current, let out twice the required scope to let the boat fall back downstream, drop the second anchor, then haul our way back upstream to the desired position. If a strong cross wind makes this difficult, we will revert to the actual Bahamian practice of the "flying Bahamian moor" in which the secondary anchor is thrown (literally) off the bow while the boat is still moving forward up-current. When the double scope point is reached, power is taken off, the primary anchor is dropped, and the boat is allowed to settle back down-current while the slack is taken out of the secondary rode. This practice is fine when the locals perform it under sail, but every time we do it under power, we hold our breath for fear of catching the first rode in the prop. The third way is to take the second anchor out by dinghy—and I'd rather have a root canal
I think David has it spot on regarding Bahamian mooring. It is 180, both off the bow, not 90. I don't think he implied tying the second anchor to the stern. From a Sail Net article: A Bahamian moor is nothing more than spreading the V on a traditional two-anchor set until the V has become a straight line with the anchors set 180 degrees apart. With one anchor set up-current and the second set down-current, the boat is effectively immobilized in one place, regardless of the actions of water flow or wind. When the tide changes and the current reverses, the boat simply pulls on the other rode. With practice, patience, and experience, you should be able to get your vessel in to almost any tight anchorage. The biggest problem with the Bahamian Moor is from the rodes chafing the stem of the boat and the bottom paint for the full length of the hull. Even if a little slack is left in both rodes, when the wind opposes the current, the boat may well sit on the aft anchor. Many experienced cruisers help overcome this difficulty by running sentinels, or heavy weights, down each rode to the bottom. These weights deflect the rode downward, effectively increasing the catenary and acting as an automatic retracting system on the slack rode. It isn't 100 percent effective, but it does help. Sentinels and riding gear should be a part of every cruiser's storm anchoring system in any event. There are several ways to set a Bahamian moor. We normally anchor to the existing current, let out twice the required scope to let the boat fall back downstream, drop the second anchor, then haul our way back upstream to the desired position. If a strong cross wind makes this difficult, we will revert to the actual Bahamian practice of the "flying Bahamian moor" in which the secondary anchor is thrown (literally) off the bow while the boat is still moving forward up-current. When the double scope point is reached, power is taken off, the primary anchor is dropped, and the boat is allowed to settle back down-current while the slack is taken out of the secondary rode. This practice is fine when the locals perform it under sail, but every time we do it under power, we hold our breath for fear of catching the first rode in the prop. The third way is to take the second anchor out by dinghy—and I'd rather have a root canal
Bahamian Moor @
A Bahamian Mooring sets two anchors (both off the bow) at slightly less than 180 Degrees (say about 160 - 170 Deg). This smaller angle faces towards prevailing windward, with the (resulting)opposite 190-200 Deg. angle to leeward. Leave some slack between the two rodes, and deploy sentinal weights. You'll probably develope some rode wraps, so chaffing gear is important.
A Bahamian Mooring sets two anchors (both off the bow) at slightly less than 180 Degrees (say about 160 - 170 Deg). This smaller angle faces towards prevailing windward, with the (resulting)opposite 190-200 Deg. angle to leeward. Leave some slack between the two rodes, and deploy sentinal weights. You'll probably develope some rode wraps, so chaffing gear is important.
Single-handed set
I have limited experience with this technique, and am certainly no expert, however I know of a single-hander who frequently uses a form of the Bahamian system for long-term anchoring. He carries the first anchor at the stern with the rode led forward outside of the shrouds to the stem. That way, he can sail or motor upwind, dropping the first anchor without fear of snagging the prop or keel and without leaving the cockpit. He then simply feeds out the rode as he stands in the cockpit until it reaches twice the nominal length. As the boat comes to a stop into the wind, he walks forward, wrapping the anchor line around the forward cleat just before dropping the second (or primary) anchor. To finish the set, he pulls in on the first anchor and let's out on the second until the rodes are equalized. With fin keels and exposed props/shafts, I would expect that messenger weights would be needed as suggested before.
I have limited experience with this technique, and am certainly no expert, however I know of a single-hander who frequently uses a form of the Bahamian system for long-term anchoring. He carries the first anchor at the stern with the rode led forward outside of the shrouds to the stem. That way, he can sail or motor upwind, dropping the first anchor without fear of snagging the prop or keel and without leaving the cockpit. He then simply feeds out the rode as he stands in the cockpit until it reaches twice the nominal length. As the boat comes to a stop into the wind, he walks forward, wrapping the anchor line around the forward cleat just before dropping the second (or primary) anchor. To finish the set, he pulls in on the first anchor and let's out on the second until the rodes are equalized. With fin keels and exposed props/shafts, I would expect that messenger weights would be needed as suggested before.
OK, maybe I was too assertive with the 90 degree
angle. But over the years, I've read several anchoring stories. Each describes the Bahamian moore as deploying the anchors to either side of the bow. Pick your degrees and enter the value here; _______. Now with that filled in, I believe the name of the technique comes from securing the vessel in prevailing trade winds, not reversing currents. I've used all number of angles. They seem to also vary slightly depending on the bottom and wind. In other words, the boat pulls back a little, even after the hooks are set. It all depends. P.S. Just saw your post Gord, thanks.
angle. But over the years, I've read several anchoring stories. Each describes the Bahamian moore as deploying the anchors to either side of the bow. Pick your degrees and enter the value here; _______. Now with that filled in, I believe the name of the technique comes from securing the vessel in prevailing trade winds, not reversing currents. I've used all number of angles. They seem to also vary slightly depending on the bottom and wind. In other words, the boat pulls back a little, even after the hooks are set. It all depends.
P.S. Just saw your post Gord, thanks.Bahamian Mooring to mitigate Current
The “Bahamian Mooring” is an excellent strategy for mitigating the effects of reversing Tidal Sets, and a good “tight quarters” method, as it limits the boat’s swinging circle for a given rode length. I've also seen references to it's use in "varying wind conditions", but it's primary use is against reversing currents. The prefered angle between the anchors is <180 Degrees. A 90 degree set is a totally different animal. Sentinel weights run down towards the middle of the rode, are not only valuable in extra-heavy weather, but for "Bahamian" mooring in areas where tide runs strongly against wind. The sentinels are used to keep the slack rode from chafing against the hull (keel, prop' & shaft). Although the Tidal Set is predictable, the wind direction is not. Often, the wind will be at odds with the current, resulting in a very uncomfortable ride. Follows a rough draft of an (unpublished) article, usefull to those living-aboard at anchor. The method is not tecommended for boats stored untended at anchor, as daily (or more) adjustment is required. ANCHOR SPRING LINES: Some anchorages may have a strong current running through them, or sometimes experience a strong surge or groundswell. Even a smaller current or surge can set your boat to rocking - and you know how uncomfortable a rolling boat can be. A fast current or big swell can make the harbor untenable. Fortunately, there's an easy way to alleviate all that by the use of a forward quarter spring line to the anchor rode, a technique called "springing the rode". To understand how Anchor Spring Lines work, it will be helpful to visualize the conditions that call for it. Suppose you're anchored in a harbor where the wind is blowing from the east. Lying to her anchor, your boat will point east into the wind. Now, suppose there's a surge rolling into the harbor from the north (or a current running South). It could be a ground swell generated by some distant storm, or just a remnant of seas outside the harbor bending around the headland. Whatever the source, waves from the north will strike your boat on the port beam and she'll rock-n-roll. But if the vessel were turned 90 Degrees to port, pointed into the waves rather than into the wind, the effect would be a much reduced, fore-and-aft motion, i.e., pitching instead of rolling. By comparison, pitching in these circumstances is hardly noticeable unless it becomes really extreme. So, how best to point the boat into the surge is the key to comfort in this harbor. Most sailors will immediately think of setting a second anchor from the stern. In this scenario of an east wind and northerly wave action, the stern anchor would be set well out to the southeast. Then, by hauling in on the rode aft the boat can be made to face north. There's nothing really wrong with this solution, except that (a) It is more work than necessary, carrying out and later retrieving the second hook, and (b) The boat can no longer swing with other boats nearby that are laying to only one anchor. This may create spacing problems if the wind shifts. (c) You are constrained by two anchors, which would delay your departure in the event circumstances necessitate a rapid escape. A much easier, more efficient solution can be accomplished using the bow anchor that is already set and a spring line. Simply tie a long dock line to the bow anchor's rode or chain at the bow of your boat. A (triple sliding) rolling hitch works well for this. Lead the line aft alongside the hull to (in this case) the starboard cockpit sheet winch. On a center cockpit boat it would be best to pass the line through a stern quarter turning block before leading it to the winch. Check that the line is running outboard of the bow pulpit, stanchions, and shrouds. ... 2 Next, pay out the anchor rode, about 1/3 to 1/2 of a boat length. Finally, take up on the spring line until there's roughly equal pull on the rode and the spring. The boat will swing broadside to the wind and will face the swell. It's as simple as one-two-three! Our example illustrates a perpendicular wave to wind angle. But you can adjust the vessel's heading to suit other conditions: If the waves are forward of the beam, feed out less of the rode and/or take in less on the spring line. To head her further off, slack the anchor rode more and/or haul in some more on the spring. A little experimentation and you'll easily master this useful technique. Here are a few other pointers: If the waves are abaft the beam it may be equally comfortable to lay your boat's stern to face them rather than the bow. This will require less line adjustment than swinging the bow all the way around. Remember: To turn the bow to port, use a starboard forward quarter spring line; to turn to starboard, use a port spring. If the wind gets to blowing harder and you feel uneasy about the strain your boat's beam-on position is putting on the anchor, you can instantly return to the normal anchor mode - bow to the wind - just by releasing the spring line. The boat will quickly swing to the breeze. The spring line can be recovered later when you weigh anchor. This technique does rely on a fairly consistent breeze. If the wind shifts, you'll have to readjust the boat's angle. If the breeze dies altogether, deploying a stern anchor may be the only way to hold your boat end-on to the waves. Explanatory diagrams available (sorry, by fax only) - email your facsimile number to: Gord@BoatPro.zzn.com E. & O. E Enjoy your more comfortable mooring, Gord May ~~_/)_~~ “Hooking . . . for a good night's sleep” By Jerry Powlas - Good Old Boat magazine, Volume 2, Number 2, March/April 1999. http://www.boatus.com/goodoldboat/anchor.htm
The “Bahamian Mooring” is an excellent strategy for mitigating the effects of reversing Tidal Sets, and a good “tight quarters” method, as it limits the boat’s swinging circle for a given rode length. I've also seen references to it's use in "varying wind conditions", but it's primary use is against reversing currents. The prefered angle between the anchors is <180 Degrees. A 90 degree set is a totally different animal. Sentinel weights run down towards the middle of the rode, are not only valuable in extra-heavy weather, but for "Bahamian" mooring in areas where tide runs strongly against wind. The sentinels are used to keep the slack rode from chafing against the hull (keel, prop' & shaft). Although the Tidal Set is predictable, the wind direction is not. Often, the wind will be at odds with the current, resulting in a very uncomfortable ride. Follows a rough draft of an (unpublished) article, usefull to those living-aboard at anchor. The method is not tecommended for boats stored untended at anchor, as daily (or more) adjustment is required. ANCHOR SPRING LINES: Some anchorages may have a strong current running through them, or sometimes experience a strong surge or groundswell. Even a smaller current or surge can set your boat to rocking - and you know how uncomfortable a rolling boat can be. A fast current or big swell can make the harbor untenable. Fortunately, there's an easy way to alleviate all that by the use of a forward quarter spring line to the anchor rode, a technique called "springing the rode". To understand how Anchor Spring Lines work, it will be helpful to visualize the conditions that call for it. Suppose you're anchored in a harbor where the wind is blowing from the east. Lying to her anchor, your boat will point east into the wind. Now, suppose there's a surge rolling into the harbor from the north (or a current running South). It could be a ground swell generated by some distant storm, or just a remnant of seas outside the harbor bending around the headland. Whatever the source, waves from the north will strike your boat on the port beam and she'll rock-n-roll. But if the vessel were turned 90 Degrees to port, pointed into the waves rather than into the wind, the effect would be a much reduced, fore-and-aft motion, i.e., pitching instead of rolling. By comparison, pitching in these circumstances is hardly noticeable unless it becomes really extreme. So, how best to point the boat into the surge is the key to comfort in this harbor. Most sailors will immediately think of setting a second anchor from the stern. In this scenario of an east wind and northerly wave action, the stern anchor would be set well out to the southeast. Then, by hauling in on the rode aft the boat can be made to face north. There's nothing really wrong with this solution, except that (a) It is more work than necessary, carrying out and later retrieving the second hook, and (b) The boat can no longer swing with other boats nearby that are laying to only one anchor. This may create spacing problems if the wind shifts. (c) You are constrained by two anchors, which would delay your departure in the event circumstances necessitate a rapid escape. A much easier, more efficient solution can be accomplished using the bow anchor that is already set and a spring line. Simply tie a long dock line to the bow anchor's rode or chain at the bow of your boat. A (triple sliding) rolling hitch works well for this. Lead the line aft alongside the hull to (in this case) the starboard cockpit sheet winch. On a center cockpit boat it would be best to pass the line through a stern quarter turning block before leading it to the winch. Check that the line is running outboard of the bow pulpit, stanchions, and shrouds. ... 2 Next, pay out the anchor rode, about 1/3 to 1/2 of a boat length. Finally, take up on the spring line until there's roughly equal pull on the rode and the spring. The boat will swing broadside to the wind and will face the swell. It's as simple as one-two-three! Our example illustrates a perpendicular wave to wind angle. But you can adjust the vessel's heading to suit other conditions: If the waves are forward of the beam, feed out less of the rode and/or take in less on the spring line. To head her further off, slack the anchor rode more and/or haul in some more on the spring. A little experimentation and you'll easily master this useful technique. Here are a few other pointers: If the waves are abaft the beam it may be equally comfortable to lay your boat's stern to face them rather than the bow. This will require less line adjustment than swinging the bow all the way around. Remember: To turn the bow to port, use a starboard forward quarter spring line; to turn to starboard, use a port spring. If the wind gets to blowing harder and you feel uneasy about the strain your boat's beam-on position is putting on the anchor, you can instantly return to the normal anchor mode - bow to the wind - just by releasing the spring line. The boat will quickly swing to the breeze. The spring line can be recovered later when you weigh anchor. This technique does rely on a fairly consistent breeze. If the wind shifts, you'll have to readjust the boat's angle. If the breeze dies altogether, deploying a stern anchor may be the only way to hold your boat end-on to the waves. Explanatory diagrams available (sorry, by fax only) - email your facsimile number to: Gord@BoatPro.zzn.com E. & O. E Enjoy your more comfortable mooring, Gord May ~~_/)_~~ “Hooking . . . for a good night's sleep” By Jerry Powlas - Good Old Boat magazine, Volume 2, Number 2, March/April 1999. http://www.boatus.com/goodoldboat/anchor.htm
Some links
I’m don’t always agree with Tom & Don, but here’s a few of well-written articles on multiple anchor use. “Using Two Anchors” - by Tom Wood http://www.sailnet.com/collections/articles/index.cfm?articleid=woodto052 Anchoring in Small Spaces - by Tom Wood http://www.sailnet.com/collections/articles/index.cfm?articleid=woodto053 “The Better Bahamian Moor” - by Don Casey http://www.sailnet.com/collections/articles/index.cfm?articleid=caseyd0080 “Understanding Anchoring Dynamics” - by Don Casey http://www.sailnet.com/collections/articles/index.cfm?articleid=caseyd0071
I’m don’t always agree with Tom & Don, but here’s a few of well-written articles on multiple anchor use. “Using Two Anchors” - by Tom Wood http://www.sailnet.com/collections/articles/index.cfm?articleid=woodto052 Anchoring in Small Spaces - by Tom Wood http://www.sailnet.com/collections/articles/index.cfm?articleid=woodto053 “The Better Bahamian Moor” - by Don Casey http://www.sailnet.com/collections/articles/index.cfm?articleid=caseyd0080 “Understanding Anchoring Dynamics” - by Don Casey http://www.sailnet.com/collections/articles/index.cfm?articleid=caseyd0071
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